ROY Boy

Member
1949 8n frt mount.
Putting it back together, put the hood on and battery box in. When i turned on the key smoke come out from under the hood. I took the battery box off as i thought this had shorted something. The wire from the resistor to the ammeter had melted.
I could see no burn marks on the battery box.
I made another jumper wire from the resistor to the ammeter.
I got juice from the battery to the starter, from starter to the ammeter, but only on the side comming from the starter. The ammeter is new but has never worked.
I saw a flow chart on power travel in archives but today cannot find it. I would think the resistor would be hot when the keys is on? Got nothing at the coil. I'm useing a little test bulb to check power. Do you think the resistor fried?
Request the power flow chart if anyone has it and any suggestions.
Thank you all who answers
Roy
 
Bypass the resistor and see what you got. You can run it for a few minutes without the resistor. Just not all day.
 
Hcookie
Forgot to advise this i still 6volt
bypass the resistor meaning jumper from starter wire to coil wire??
Thanks
Roy
 
I think you need to back up and re-wire.

starter doesn't get hooke dup tot he ammeter.. starter gets it's power from a solenoid.. which is fed from the battery..

post back more info.

soundguy
 
My mistake, your right, hot from solenoid to ammeter, from there all is dead.
Wired according to FO-4 shop manual
Thanks
Roy
 
ammeter may be open if you got power on one side and none on the other.. rare.. but happens... direct shorts of battery thru ammeter to ground will open them shunt voltmeters up right fast.

pull wires off and use ohm meter to test..

soundguy
 
Does your wiring look like this?

WIRE-6-47.jpg
 
I had what I think was the same wire frying last spring. I posted and when Hobo and I consulted on the cell and I described the situation to him he advised me to change the ampmeter (he said I had a short) took his advise, problem solved. Gary
 
Yes Gary this is a new one but its never worked, but the generator doesnt either. Got to have it rebuilt
Thanks
Roy
 
Soundguy, I hate to bring this up, but, you appear to have a stuttering problem (or maybe a lazy finger)- This is in phun---BUT, in previos posts (and this one) there appears to be a problem with "tot he". If Siggy was still in business, he vould zay " dis iz an apparent problem vis...." grin b
 
Roy.......take a good look at the drawing. Iff'n ya have test lite at one side of the "infamous ballast resistor" that means yer amp-meter is good 'cuz all yer power has gotta go thru the amp-meter to gitt to the ballast resistor. Iff'n you have test-lite on one side of yer ballast resistor, you MUST have test-lite on other side of yer ballast resistor ...OR... the ballast resistor is OPEN and burned out just like a lite-bulb. Its the LAW, Kirchhoff's Law. .......Dell, yer self-appointed lawyer
 
Dell, I got juice from the selonoid to one side of the ammeter, not to the other side and the resister has no juice on any posts. No juice to the key wires, off or on??
Thanks
Roy
 


I post a few hundred emails a day at 90+ wpm typing.. I make typo's.. and unless the text is unreadable.. i let it fly.

soundguy
 
Roy.......that is NOT what you wrote in yer original description. Ya BURNED the wire from amp-meter to resistor. And the ONLY way fer ya to gitt power on that wire is THRU the amp-meter. As to why you now don't gitt power thru yer amp-meter, ya BURNED yer amp-meter gutts inside. And it needs to be replaced. .......Dell, the lawyer
 
Roy.......yes, you can "by-pass" the amp-meter and the tractor will never know the difference. use at least 12ga. And you can actually do it at the 2-terminals of the amp-meter. .......Dell
 
Update
I went out today and had juice to resistor & ammeter and key switch. Dont know what happen but had short somewhere i'm sure. I got company and had to quit so will try starting her this after noon
Thanks to all
Roy
 
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