NH 273 Baler timing

[maineuropa]

Had a bit of a disaster with the NH 273 baler ..broke the knotter shear bolt and both twine needles in two places. I have replacement needles, but I do not care for the odd clank at the very end of the knotter tie sequence when I hand crank it. I am just starting to get the time to look at this; and I have the manual. What bothers me now is the knotter trip is on the clutch pawl, but it is very hard to "trip" the knotter(it really does not want to go towards the front and engage.) The Needle connector arm (Figure 55A) in the manual is not perfectly straight but it was like that when I got it and I have baled over 2000 without a hitch. See first Picture. Followed the instructions on the adjustment of the timing for the knotter but I am unsure where the adjustment actually is. Is it in the degree of tightness in the chain tightener?

Another interesting aspect: both tips of the twine needles(look closely at the twine needle pic, I overlaid the broken section I found) the tips I have yet to locate. Any guesses there? In the last bale? Havent found them yet!

 

[Roger Tomfohrde]

Chains also can stretch.

 

[retired farmer]

I would start by looking for gummed up and bent and seized parts. Needle looks like it has been bent by something. You may never find the tips unless you know exactly where things broke and have a big magnet. Have someone help you turn the flywheel while you watch.

 

[Hayfarmer]

looks like timing marks are quite a bit off. Other problem is apparently the plunger stop wasn't working or it would have stopped this from happening. The stop linkage sometimes gets gummy from extra grease or no grease. It also probably has a spring on it that may be missing or the wrong one. Time baler per book and also check needle stop adjustment. I don't know if on 273 that needle lift arm is supposed to be bent or not. Operator manual will give you figure on how far up it should go. Main thing is to make sure plunger stop is working.

 

[SVcummins]

To adjust knotter timing you need to jump the chain on the sprocket until the lines are lined up when you tighten the chain

 

[maineuropa]

Pretty sure I was able to correct the timing of the chain. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the pictures. The paint flaked off where the twine needles attach to the swing hoop, indicating possible bending of the mounts(?). I know all 6 bolts need replacing as they are bent.
Replaced one twine needle and tried a hand cycle: needle is hitting the bottom of the plate instead of the billhook...not good. Two pix of that. SUre looks like something is seriously tweaked.
Anybody with 273 experience anywhere near southern Maine?

 

[maineuropa]

Looks like I got that, but to be clear, it's the tension of the chain roller guide as the key here to adjusting that timing?

 

[Tx Jim]

Bending of needle frame can/will happen sometimes when needles get broken.

I agree with hayfarmer that's it's imperative that you get plungerhead stop operating correctly.

 

[shaun wallace]

The marks DONOT line up, they are only a reference for timing twister/knotter. There should be timing instructions in twine box or on a cover. The needle tips should enter chamber at the same time as tips on plunger face. If dont have OP manuel get one it has that and more in it.

 

[Hayfarmer]

Yes the chain driving knotter needs to be tight, marks need to line up with it tight. More importantly the needles need to enter the chamber just behind the point of the plunger, sometimes due to wear marks could be slightly off. on my 282 baler needle clearence above, ober twine discs is done on carrier by tightening and lostening bolts on the end of the needles, there must be some way to adjust that on the 273. As mentioned, operator's manual essential

 

[thethresherman]

Your needle yoke is bent bad, The vertical pipes should be parallel and the needle mounting brackets should be 90 degrees from pipe frame. It would be hard to straighten.

 

[Handsome Devil]

(quoted from post at 18:43:09 10/05/20) Your needle yoke is bent bad, The vertical pipes should be parallel and the needle mounting brackets should be 90 degrees from pipe frame. It would be hard to straighten.
<img src="https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto58418.jpg">

Would agree on the yoke needing straightening or replacement. My 273 sat a few years and my safety froze up, broke my needles in many small pcs. The mechanic that helped me out took the yoke off and straightened it while I worked on getting the shaft out for the frozen safety. Do not recall how he straightened the yoke but it needed it. Pretty common failure if things go this bad. After straightening I recall installing the "repaired" yoke making sure it cycled up and down with no metal on metal with some minor adjustments to make it smooth and clank free. After cleaning up the shaft for the safety and greasing it up it swung free and easy. Then we shimmed the slides on the track for feeding the chamber. Replaced the chain for the knotter drive. I recall the timing of the plunger was done and double checked by timing marks by front of the chamber by moving the plunger to TDC and cycling a few times. Wish I remembered exactly how to do this but I don't. The NH 273 has run nicely ever since this failure/repair. I want to double check my NH 275 timing as I had gone through this baler doing much of the same work minus the bent yoke and broken needles. All of my work could of been avoided if the safety had been greased {two zerks} and having a better mechanic then me look it over for a tune up. Hind sight 20/20. I think these old NH balers are wonderful machines but they do need PM and tweeking once every 25 years or so. The investment of having a good mechanic look it over would of been worth every penny rather than wait for a catastrophic failure to call the mechanic. But I do understand why people don't do this and good baler mechanics are sometimes hard to come by these days. 30 years ago it was tough to find one. They don't advertise in the yellow pages. Harder yet with fewer real farmers using small sq balers. Regards, John.

 

[maineuropa]

Plungerhead stop was frozen, and missing its zerk fitting. I was able to get it to pivot/operate, but only by pulling the keeper cotter pin
at the bottom of the pivot. I cannot remove the pivot, so it will have to run without the keeper cottter pin. I doubt it will fall out as
no amount of heat, PB Blaster and vice grips twisting will get that pin to move relative to the stop. So now it has to have to cotter pin
removed to work. Ordered a replacement yoke; found one for $200 in Pa. A new one costs $475.

 

[Handsome Devil]

If I recall the shaft came out hard and it was a job getting it out. I think we used heat and a BFH with a long shaft to punch it down and eventually out. I have a lathe so chucked it and polished best I could do remove the rust. You will never forget those 2 zerk fittings ever again after all this work. As stated already the investment in a owners manual showing the grease points is worth it. My breakdown was some years ago already. Not sure if I knew about those two hidden zerks and then forgot or if I never knew about them. But sitting for a few years in a building it froze up tight. That is a lot of work to go through while your hay is cut and waiting for you before the next rain. Like remembering the Alamo, you will always remember those two zerks. At least I will. Regards, John.