NH 315 baler

[Chuckwagon]

I have a NH 315 baler the 95% of the time it works great. The other 5% it starts bunching up 2 strings around the bird-bill on the right side. Mostly when I have to restring, but it has done it on it's own. After I clear it may do it again one more time. The bird-bill is clean and shinny. I do clean, grease and WD-40 everything after I'm done baling my first cutting, then again after the last cutting before it's put away for the season. I can use your opinion's and advice.

 

[DeltaRed]

I woulsd say that the wiper arm is starting to get a little too much clearance between it self and the billhook...it will only get worse

 

[Chuckwagon]

Delta, can that be adjusted ? If so how ? as you can proberly tell I don't have a book..

 

[Anonymous-0]

un bolt and tip the knotter up and watch it wipe across you can tap it with a hammer and get it closer.also make sure it wipes by the end of hook brass ball might be worn.

 

[Chuckwagon]

wc Mike, I'll give that a try

 

[GordoSD]

It's a little difficult to get a square baler tying 100% WITH the manual. Without it your're shoveling sand against the tide.
I see it all the time here but I just don't see the logic in buying a 50 year old machine, saving thousands over price of good newer machine and then unable to part with 20 dollars for a manual, to get the old implement working correctly.

Gordo

 

[Anonymous-0]

i should of also added on mine if i get the bales to tight it will act up hard to get hay dry this year wet hay packs tight

 

[Anonymous-0]

There is a belief on this forum that if you just buy a manual it will automatically solve all your problems. I have a manual for every piece of equipment I own and I can read. But guess what? the manuals are sometimes hard to read, often lacking in detail, and mostly written when this stuff was new, not after 40 years of wear and abuse.

The posts that just say, "get a manual" are mostly from people without much practical insight and experience to add to the discussion.

I come here for advice ... after....after i've read the manual and after I've tried it and still haven't been able to solve the problem.

My experience is that Knotters take a lot of trial and error and when it is fixed you may never know which little tweek did the trick.
Keep trying. When it is fixed it is a gratifying experience.

By the way, the manual says to bend the wiper arm to adjust it....but it doesn't say how to bend it? Hammer, vise, crowbar, dynamite? On or Off the machine?

 

[Chuckwagon]

Thanks Gordo for your input. From the sound of it I'm getting the impression you knew it all. I thought this site was to help each other when a issue came along that you couldn't figure out, even when you do have books....... It's not the $20.00 for the book, books don't always explain everything the way it should be done, that's why we ask because their may be someone had that same experienced and can help you to make it a little easier to repair it. The $20.00 is cheap compared to .2 cents of nothing..

 

[JDseller]

DON"T hit that wiper arm. You bend them. If you hit it hard enough to bend it you may break the pivot pin off of it. Take the knotter hold down bolt out and rotate the knotter up. As you are doing this it will make the wiper arm drag across the bill hook. It needs to drag a little but not so tight that when it goes back across the bill hook catches on the front of the bill hook. Also look at the shape of the wiper arm as it is on the bill hook. They should match. Some times you need to reshape the arm"s radius to match the bill hook better. It needs square edges on it, so the knot does not slip under it. Also check and see if there is a burr on the inside of the bill hook. I have had them get a small one on the tongue of the bill hook. They then will catch the knot.
The wiper arm is a malleable metal. It will bend. I usually use a pipe wrench. I adjust it to just slide over the wiper arm and then pry side ways with it. They make a special wrench to do it with but I have never found one used to buy, so my old pipe wrench will have to do.

 

[Chuckwagon]

Thanks JD, I'll disconnect the pins and swing the assembly's up and check the clearances before I attempt to make any adjustments. I'm between cutting and baling right now, so I have some time to inspect and look it all over before I try to make any adjustments.
Just want to thank everyone, I appreciate the advice & help you all have given me.

 

[Flewster]

(quoted from post at 22:59:02 08/13/10) DON"T hit that wiper arm. You bend them. If you hit it hard enough to bend it you may break the pivot pin off of it. Take the knotter hold down bolt out and rotate the knotter up. As you are doing this it will make the wiper arm drag across the bill hook. It needs to drag a little but not so tight that when it goes back across the bill hook catches on the front of the bill hook. Also look at the shape of the wiper arm as it is on the bill hook. They should match. Some times you need to reshape the arm"s radius to match the bill hook better. It needs square edges on it, so the knot does not slip under it. Also check and see if there is a burr on the inside of the bill hook. I have had them get a small one on the tongue of the bill hook. They then will catch the knot.
The wiper arm is a malleable metal. It will bend. I usually use a pipe wrench. I adjust it to just slide over the wiper arm and then pry side ways with it. They make a special wrench to do it with but I have never found one used to buy, so my old pipe wrench will have to do.

that there is good advise that you will NOT find in a manual........thank you

 

[RickB]

That is exactly how New Holland knife arms are adjusted. They are made of malleable iron. In most cases, they will require some bending to bring them within spec as they are installed. Directions included with new knife arms detail this.