Nick's 8N restoration

LithiumCobalt

Member
Location
Knoxville, TN
Figured I should finally make a thread about my tractor restoration project…..a little background first.

I have a 1951 8N that first belonged to my great grandfather, then my grandfather and then it became mine about ten years ago. This tractor looks like it has been to hell and back. Both great grandpa and grandpa were thrifty men. If it couldn’t be fixed with some grease and bailing wire, they did without. Unfortunately, I did not have a lot of extra funds when I first acquired it so I had to do the best I could. Changed the battery, hydraulic fluid, oil, put new plugs, points and wires on and use it occasionally to drive around with. Never really did much work with it other than some snow plowing. Also unfortunately, I did not have any place to store it indoors all these years until just recently. Tractor starts right up and drives around without complaint, albeit with a lot of blowby coming out the oil breather. I don't believe the engine has ever been opened up, so it is way past due.

After moving to a home with a four-car garage, I have space to keep the tractor indoors, thankfully. I also finally have the income to support trying to put this tractor back to the way it should be. I am generally a strict originalist when it comes to any kind of restoration. I want things to look exactly like they did when they came off the factory floor. I know I will spend 4-5x what the tractor is worth as a whole to do this, but I am committed to doing it, because that’s the way I like it.

I may have let things go a bit longer, but the rear tires and rims really forced my hand to start the process. I had both an original hat rim on one side and an aftermarket loop rim on the other. Being filled with CaCl, the hat rim, unfortunately, was rotten too badly to save. Astonishingly, the tubes still held air just fine, but the tires were very badly weather cracked and dry rotten. So, that’s where it all started.

I commenced with trying to find tires that were somewhat correct for the tractor and ended up with a set of Firestone Road & Field tires for the rear and some Firestone repops for the front. My tractor originally came with 16” front wheels, so my only option for a Firestone tire was the one commonly used on the Jubilees and later. With the tires and tubes acquired, I decided to hunt down a set of original hat rims that I could restore. Bought one set that ended up being not so nice condition. Then travelled about five hours one way to get a nicer set from a couple states away. Yes, I am that crazy. With some minor straightening, I had them stripped and powdercoated to resemble the original finish.

Since job creep is a real thing, I decided, well, I’ve got the rear wheels off, let’s rebuild the brakes, put new axle bearings and seals in. So, those parts are now here waiting for me to find some time. I figure at least then I can get the rear-end completely buttoned down so I don’t have to tear anything apart again before stripping and painting the chassis.

So, this is where I am right now. I love doing this kind of work. In fact, I wish I could find a way to monetize it full time in a way that would support my family..
Here are some earlier photos of the tractor and also some as it currently sits….and also a few photos of the restored hat rims and center discs getting shot with primer.
 

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Looking good, keep up the restoration work. My tractor was also a hand me down and has sentimental value to me.
Yes, lots of memories with it. I've already spent twice the value of the entire tractor just on tires and rim restoration. It's also going to need one of everything else too, but it's been in the family for 60 years, so what's a guy gonna do?
 
Yeah, same here. I spent a pile of money to get the engine rebuilt and miscellaneous other repairs. But they are worth it to keep them from going to the scrap pile.
Who did you have do your engine restoration? I don't know that I would trust anyone local to do mine. I am located in Knoxville, TN. Just 8Ns is about five hours from me in NC. Considered hauling it over there to have them do it, but haven't checked with them yet.
 
So have you done any testing on the engine ? L like compression or leak down test , might verify before you spend a cash lot on engine overhaul when it’s not needed. Could spend on hydraulic s or other worn out parts. Just a suggestion.
 
Who did you have do your engine restoration? I don't know that I would trust anyone local to do mine. I am located in Knoxville, TN. Just 8Ns is about five hours from me in NC. Considered hauling it over there to have them do it, but haven't checked with them yet.
I had a shop here in Lancaster PA do my engine. They only specialize in Model A Ford engines.
 
So have you done any testing on the engine ? L like compression or leak down test , might verify before you spend a cash lot on engine overhaul when it’s not needed. Could spend on hydraulic s or other worn out parts. Just a suggestion.
I have not done any testing. Seems to run fine, but the oil smoke just rolls out of the breather. To me, that means worn rings or a number of other things. This tractor has been used a lot over the years, but the engine has never been open. It's probably time. I plan to overhaul the hydraulic system and the steering box too during the process to make sure everything is fresh. Some things may get replaced that don't need it, but I'd rather do a thorough job and not have to go back in later.
 
If your breather pipe is smoking heavily, you definitely want to get in there and fix that. I did not and will not restore my 2N, but when I got it, it smoked badly from both ends. I didn't hesitate to cure that. I am no machinist/mechanic, but with the help of one friend who has rebuilt engines in the past, we made short work of the problem :)
 
Unfortunately, I have the same problem with classic cars.
When you get older, too old to drive classic cars and they take your drivers license away because you can't see well enough, or have a medical condition which gives them a reason to say you cannot drive.

I will point out that a tractor can be driven to town without a drivers licence.

So you are making a distinction without a difference, classic tractors can be used as you would a classic car when you become a classic driver.
 
I'm selling this because I need the garage space. My barn is getting too full, and I need more space for tractors.
 

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Trying to decide what to do with my seat. I have this aftermarket shock-assisted seat on my tractor currently. Can't remember the brand or what it was called.... The shock is blown so it provides zero benefit. I am also six feet tall and sitting in this seat isn't comfortable for me. Way too far forward. Should I restore this thing or trade it for an original seat and spring set?
 

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Trying to decide what to do with my seat. I have this aftermarket shock-assisted seat on my tractor currently. Can't remember the brand or what it was called.... The shock is blown so it provides zero benefit. I am also six feet tall and sitting in this seat isn't comfortable for me. Way too far forward. Should I restore this thing or trade it for an original seat and spring set?
I would go back with the original. " I want things to look exactly like they did when they came off the factory floor." When you get to paint understand that CNH has discontinued the vermillion red and light gray that your "N" came with. They stock just the shades for the '58-64 tractors to save inventory costs. TSC and other places seem to have followed suit.
 
I would go back with the original. " I want things to look exactly like they did when they came off the factory floor." When you get to paint understand that CNH has discontinued the vermillion red and light gray that your "N" came with. They stock just the shades for the '58-64 tractors to save inventory costs. TSC and other places seem to have followed suit.
I actually ended up purchasing what I believe to be the correct gray and red from VanSickles. The gray has the TP240 label on it which many have said is the Tisco formula for 8N gray. As for the red, I am not sure if its totally correct.

EDIT: Now I see what you mean. Label at the bottom says "Pre-'65". I am not going to be happy if this is the wrong stuff.
 

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The red looks like it could be correct. It is not the type of paint that I prefer to use. For me it comes down to how much time I put into the prep. Implement paint is fine for a five hour prep. but not a fifty hour job.
 

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