no fire

[Anonymous-0]

I HAVE A 2N WAS PULLING A BRUSH HOG AND THE ENGINE STOPED FOR NO REASON IT WILL TURN OVER BUT NO FIRE TO COIL OR PLUGS I AM STUMPED

 

[OH Boy]

Check the points, they may have slipped out of their proper setting.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

6v or 12v? Troubleshooting is different, so tell us what it is.

You need to determine if it stopped because of fuel or spark. You said it has no fire to the coil; if that is correct, jump the ignition switch & see if that gets you battery voltage to the top of the coil. If you have current there & it won't start, get an old plug, open the gap to 3/16, ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the head, turn the key on & crank the engine. You have three possibilities: no spark, weak and/or intermittent yellow spark, or a bright blue spark. What is it? Next, check for fuel. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the carb; as long as the fuel is turned on, you should see gas flowing out of the carb.

As a good rule of thumb, a 1 - 2 minute run times is usually the condenser, ballast resistor, or vacuum lock....or, failure to turn the gas on. A 5 minute run time is usually fuel screens. A 15 minute run time is usually the ignition switch. A one hour run time & then restarts after it cools down is usually the coil.

You could have filled the distributor up w/ chaff from whatever it was you were bush hogging. Did you pull the cap to check?

Post back w/ the results of checking for spark & fuel; lots of folks here can help you get it running.
50 Tips

 

[A. Bohemian]

What does your dashboard ammeter say?

Turn on the ignition without cranking. You should see three amps discharge on the standard six volt ignition system. The reading may vary a little with a twelve volt, but will be in that ball park.

No discharge? Points are not closing properly, are bad, or there is an open in the coil primary or elsewhere in the system.

If you see the three amps dishcarge, crank while watching the ammeter. It should fluctuate as the points open and close.

No fluctuation? Points are not opening, are shorted, or there is short elsewhere in the system.

If these readings check out ok, and by "no fire" you mean the fuel/air mixture won't detonate (as opposed to a no spark condition), the next step would be to check the fuel flow.

If, however, these reading check out ok, and by "no fire" you mean no spark, the coil secondary and condensor are suspect.

And you can learn all this INSTANTLY without touching a wrench or screwdriver. See how useful the dashboard ammeter is?

 

[Anonymous-0]

THANKS FOR YOUR REPLY'S I WILL TRY ALL OF THE ABOVE,ALSO ANY TIPS ON WORKING ON THE FRONT DISTRUBITOR AREA ( TIGHT FIT HA HA )TO ANSWER ONE THIS IS A 6 VOLT SYSTEM

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Working on a frontmount is not hard at all. The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. Remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on. When you replace the points & condenser, make sure you do not ground the condenser wire to the body of the distributor. It never hurts to check for continuity w/ a meter. Point gap is .015 on all four lobes. Stretch the pigtail on the coil a bit before you put it back on.

You might want to consider getting an I&T FO4 manual for the tractor.
50 Tips

 

[Anonymous-0]

To Bruce (va) thanks for this great info on how to work on the distributor and I just ordered this manual even tho I do have other manuals,I don't belive none will be more of use to me than this one