No spark at plug

greginoh

New User

I have a 42 2N front distributor 6 volt tractor. Lately it has been starting to miss (and sometimes backfire)Also it has been getting more difficult to start. Now it won"t start at all. I have a good fuel flow through bottom of carb. I am getting no spark at the plugs. What would you guys suggest I look at next? Thank you!
 
You might even get away with just pulling the distributor cap, rotor and dust cover, then just passing a piece of folded sandpaper between the points maybe 20 or 30 strokes. Make sure your key is off or you'll get zapped like I did.

Steve
 
I WOULD PULL THE COIL WIRE OFF OF THE COIL AND SEE IF THERE IS ANY VOLTAGE GOING TO THE COIL FIRST. THEN SEE HOW GOOD A CONTACT THERE IS TO THE POINT SCREW THAT THE LITTLE SPRING ON THE COIL TOUCHES. IF THE POINTS ARE OLD OR THEY LOOK ROUGH, I WOULD CHANGE THEM. A WAY I "BENCH TEST" THE DIST. ON MY 8N & 9N'S ARE TO TAKE THE DIST @ COIL BOTH OFF AND USE JUMPER WIRES, THE MANUALLY TURN THE DIST SHAFT. THERE SHOULD BE A "BLUE SPARK" AT THE POINTS.
 
I'd try using a piece of jumper wire across the key switch and see if you now get spark. Many years ago a bad key switch on my Jubilee caused me a $95.00 service call to the house to find out it was bad.
 

First, check for continuity inside the distributor w/ a meter or test light. It is very easy to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replaced the points. Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor that the coil pig tail does. The condenser wire goes the opening on the top right. Look at the points; are they burned, pitted or mis-aligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Points do slip closed! And, as I know from personal experience, the rubbing block on some of the ‘made overseas’ points do wear out sooner than you would expect. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points.

Next, with the distributor still off the tractor, install the coil. Look at the pigtail on the coil; is it touching the brass screw inside of the distributor? Don’t trust your eyes; test for continuity from the top of the coil to the points. If you do not have continuity, stretch the pigtail a bit until you do. (some people would rather put a small washer under the brass screw) Look at the little tab opposite of the pigtail; bend it a bit also to insure that it will contact the distributor cap. At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit (it helps to loosen the fan belt). The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.

Post back w/ results & any other questions
50 Tips
 
Thanks to all who replied. I wanted to let u all know what happened tonight. Before I pulled the distributor, I decided to try to make sure the pig tail spring from the coil was making contact. I extended the spring a bit, then put coil back on. Low and behold, it fired right up. So I plowed the garden, tractor ran well, plenty of power, did miss a bit. I was all ready to be excited with an "easy fix"........When I tried to restart it later..nothing. I mean it rolls ever fine, but thats it. Should I still be looking at points, dist, etc?? Thanks all, I appreciate the help
 
No, it's the same problem. Or, the pigtail is grounded to the spring clip; what's the ammeter doing while you are cranking the engine? The coil is loose on the distributor. Put it a piece of cardboard under the bail. If that does not work, take it all off & put it together on the bench where you can 'adjust' the pigtail & get the coil good & tight on the distributor. Then, put it back as a unit.
50 Tips
 
Bruce,

Still nothing. Replaced points, condenser and plug wires. Adjusted pigtail. To answer your question...the ammeter does nothing.
 
(quoted from post at 13:02:54 04/24/08) Bruce,

Still nothing. Replaced points, condenser and plug wires. Adjusted pigtail. To answer your question...the ammeter does nothing.

Did you try it with a jumper wire across the switch like Mike suggested?
 
Dunk,

No, that is one thing I haven't done yet. Not to sound like a total dork, but I'm not sure what or how to jump the switch. I appreciate you guys staying with me on this.

Greg
 
The switch does nothing but either, put 2 wires together, or take them apart.

What you want to accomplish is to put them together externally of the switch, that will tell you if the problem is the switch or not.
 
(quoted from post at 02:24:52 04/21/08)
I have a 42 2N front distributor 6 volt tractor. Lately it has been starting to miss (and sometimes backfire)Also it has been getting more difficult to start. Now it won"t start at all. I have a good fuel flow through bottom of carb. I am getting no spark at the plugs. What would you guys suggest I look at next? Thank you!

There was post similar to this previously,the culprit was the carbon rod between coil wire and rotor button. may be worth including this in your trace..
 
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