Yes, both cables need to be the heavier gauge (size) cable.

While some people like to have red cables for positive and black for negative, there is no requirement for a cable to be a specific color. I mention that as I am wondering if you are having trouble finding the heavy red cable. You can put a piece of red heat shrink on the ends of the cable if you want to mark the positive one. On many trucks and machines all the battery cables are black (some have red heat shrink on the ends of the positive cables). It is a dangerous practice to rely on the color of a cable to decide if it is positive or negative. There are many red cables hooked to negative terminals and black to positive terminals, in the world.
 
(quoted from post at 23:13:30 03/03/23)
Yes, both cables need to be the heavier gauge (size) cable.

While some people like to have red cables for positive and black for negative, there is no requirement for a cable to be a specific color. I mention that as I am wondering if you are having trouble finding the heavy red cable. You can put a piece of red heat shrink on the ends of the cable if you want to mark the positive one. On many trucks and machines all the battery cables are black (some have red heat shrink on the ends of the positive cables). It is a dangerous practice to rely on the color of a cable to decide if it is positive or negative. There are many red cables hooked to negative terminals and black to positive terminals, in the world.
Ok I found a company in slc that will make me a 30" 00 cable for 60 bucks
 
Setting the plug gap at .020 is a band aid for probably a weak spark caused by the wrong gauge battery cables in your case. I'm assuming that because you asked where to get the large ones. Don't forget to re-gap the plugs to .025.
If it's a 9n,the gap is 0.015.
 
If it's a 9n,the gap is 0.015.
Is my manual wrong? My 2N was converted to 12v so is their a difference? .015 or .025 gap for plugs? This manual is referencing original 6v. 015 gap for points.
Screenshot_20240109_165442_Adobe Acrobat.jpg
 
ok I rebuilt my 9N 5 years ago all new everything in motor. Ran great for two years then found that the tsv33 carb had a broken carb float pin holder tried to fix it with jb weld head for 3 years then started flooding out when engine was turn off so i started turning off gas after each use that worked kind of, if I did not turn gas off immediately it would not start back up. So here we are present day snowed heavy over new years went out and started tractor ran fine pulling heavy wet snow most of morning then it started to miss so i pulled it over to the garage to check fuel flow and it was great tried to start it just turn over with no start, that drained the 6 volt battery down cranking it trying to start it ,then i hooked up a jumper cable from my car to the tractor 6 volt battery again just spun the engine with no start.
I then charged the 6 volt and hooked up a spark plug tester to cylinder 4 cranked it over no spark. checked voltage at battery it was 6.5 volts, checked voltage at key 6.5v checked voltage at resistor block it was 5.4v checked at distributor it was 5.1
Went kind of crazed and decided to pull the distributer and points they were warren but looked good should have stopped at resistor but no had to over thing problem.
Just need some help on what to check how to check systematically so in not rebuilding the engine due to some small problem. I have service manual and have run thru the steps but I'm now at a loss of spark (no pun intended).
PS thanks to the members that helped me find a new carb top that problem should go away after I find spark.
For your own better understanding, the spark occurs the moment the points OPEN... not when they close... when the points close, a magnetic field builds around the many coil windings.... when the points Open, that magnetic field collapses (at the speed of light) and that is when you get the thousands of volts to fire across the plugs.
 
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