(quoted from post at 12:42:50 07/07/23) Somewhat of a bench test........ guess it would warm up if I let it run long enough.
UiysZMF.mp4


right click on small square ans direct to "open image in new tab or use the link.
https://i.imgur.com/UiysZMF.mp4 This post was edited by JMOR on...tion too! (I'm kinda only half kidding) ;)
 
(quoted from post at 06:19:40 06/28/23)
Before I put on the new distributor, my coping mechanism for making sure I didn't re-install the distributor 180 out of phase was that, if I was going to remove the distributor, I would pop the cap and write down where the rotor was pointing. Then I would re-install with the rotor pointing in that direction.

But... without doing that, my old distributor was definitely a risk for a re-install out of phase every time it was removed.
wad of play dough or silly putty pressed onto the drive will make a good enough impression to see which way it is clocked.
 
(quoted from post at 02:04:13 07/08/23)
(quoted from post at 06:19:40 06/28/23)
Before I put on the new distributor, my coping mechanism for making sure I didn't re-install the distributor 180 out of phase was that, if I was going to remove the distributor, I would pop the cap and write down where the rotor was pointing. Then I would re-install with the rotor pointing in that direction.

But... without doing that, my old distributor was definitely a risk for a re-install out of phase every time it was removed.
wad of play dough or silly putty pressed onto the drive will make a good enough impression to see which way it is clocked.

i use my camera for this kind of stuff. as a bonus, i no longer have to wait two weeks to see the pic!
 
(quoted from post at 08:06:01 07/07/23) Ok that was stupid of me. I searched and searched for echlin could and never saw any square ones. There are Balkamp brand at NAPA.

Price at MAPA went up $30 in two years!

ORielly's has the Standard for $80
Standard Ignition Coil - FD475

Part #:
FD475
Line:
STD
$79.99 Each Limited Lifetime Warranty

"If your receipt states Limited Lifetime Warranty, we will warranty the original part as long as you own the vehicle on which the part was originally installed."

NAPA ECHLIN

3 year warranty

Specifications
Brand Echlin
Ignition Coil Location Engine Head
Contents Ignition Coil
Voltage 6 V
Terminal Type Stud
VMRS Code 033003001

Part #: ECH IC670
Line: Echlin Ignition

$107 now!!!

Cheaper ones at NAPA are Balkamp/Sparex ~$60 6V and 12V 90-day warranty

Coils here are $27. Don't know of manufacturer or quality? Maybe some here has tried one and can give an opinion? 1-year warranty

This post was edited by Mad Farmer on 07/09/2023 at 04:46 am.
 
There have been a bunch of replies on this thread talking about getting the distributor in correctly. In Caroline's original post, it, refers to a 1941 9N FRONT MOUNT distributor.

It only goes back on one way, unless you want to break it.
 
Well Mad Farmer I sure searched for FD-475
imany ways and never found anything on NAPA. I
also searched for echlin and every possible
combination of terms I could think of.
I am well respected by friends for my
searching skill as well. You must be a
genius! Thank you. I have a Sparex and two
others.
 
(quoted from post at 09:12:33 07/09/23) There have been a bunch of replies on this thread talking about getting the distributor in correctly. In Caroline's original post, it, refers to a 1941 9N FRONT MOUNT distributor.

It only goes back on one way, unless you want to break it.

After 80 years of wear, they can be accidentally installed out of time. Maybe not on every machine, but it is possible... (Not probable). And yes, it will break.

Nobody is saying that this is the problem with this tractor. It was brought up by me as a comment about how we can (sometimes) fear new parts so much that we ignore how bad the originals are.

I myself regret that the comment took on a life of its own.
 

We had a Yesterday's Tractor coil on our 2N for about six years, I replaced it and the distributor this spring, because the tractor was running rough under load, and the distributor needed new guts.

Yes, the YT coil is inexpensive, and it gave me some trouble when I first installed it six years ago; as I had to bend the tab on the bottom out a little bit to get it to make contact with the distributor.

My sample of one lasted six years trouble free.

I only replaced it, because 30 bucks for a new coil is less money than messing with my distributor today and then laying the tractor up again this haying season or next season to mess with the coil... and all of the troubleshooting that goes into deciphering which problem is which.

So... if a 30 dollar coil lasts six years, is it worth it to pay another 50 or 60 bucks to get a three year warranty vs a one year warranty?

That's a personal choice, but I know what an accountant would say.
 
(quoted from post at 07:32:11 07/10/23) It was brought up by me as a comment about how we can (sometimes) fear new parts so much that we ignore how bad the originals are.

I myself regret that the comment took on a life of its own.

a similar issue is the mantra of never replacing anything you cannot prove is bad. i'd rather buy a new condenser, for example, on a blind hope it will help, than let my tractor sit out of service indefinitely because i can't prove the existing one is bad. imo that's the most conspicuous example, but there are many others. lots of things MIGHT turn up when testing, but after how much time spent? weighing the expense in money versus the time spent is an important part of the calculation imo. we try to eliminate the testable possibilities, but not all possibilities are created equally.

i understood your point the first time, and feel it was a valid contribution to the discussion at hand. no harm in mentioning long shots that are still possible. it's not like u put it out as "THIS is what's going on." one thing i have learned during my time on earth is that conventional wisdom is more often conventional than wise. there is a definite place of value for many unconventional tips ;)

no+ragrets.png
 
No regrets? Not even one letter? ;)

I admire the people that like to test things completely, we all learn from that process.

I also know enough as an electronics designer...to know that people with real world application experience can out-do my piece of expensive paper from college...when it comes to knowing these old machines inside and out.

And... I've also bench tested enough electronics to appreciate that the tractor itself is the ultimate test platform.

The cheap parts could be thrown onto the N to get it out to the field... while bench testing on suspect parts is done.

Once the bench testing is done... the bad parts can be thrown out or recycled, and the parts proven good on the bench can be put on a shelf for the next tune-up.

Next time you do a tune up, you just swap on all your good parts and bench test old parts. The cycle continues.

That way, you get to test, tinker and learn, the tractor is available more often and you get comparative use data to sanity check your bench tests. Win-win-win
 
Oh I have plenty of regrets lol. But I have
discouragement and can't mow my field now. I'm
not an idiot and have a reasonable amount of
mechanic ability and understanding. Years ago
kind Dell (God rest his soul) helped me with
the tractor after my divorce. Gary in Montana
has helped over the phone sometimes since
then. I might be done with it this time. I
appreciate everyone's insight and patience
here.
 
https://bellingham.craigslist.org/grd/d/blaine-ford-9n-tractor/7640901173.html

Went to look at this machine today. Maybe 1945 or so,
50 hrs use after pretty big rebuild. Has one version of the Sherman aux tranny. 2K

cvphoto158282.png


cvphoto158283.png


cvphoto158284.png
 
If you can't make the one you have now run, what are you going to expect when another one won't run? Not bashing, just serious question. If you follow all the right instructions, we can make it run. Problem is sorting thru all the BS "help"! Knowing who the right "help" to listen to.
 
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