Quality parts are critical to longevity. Sounds to me like that's your problem. Having learned the hard way, I most always use Blue Streak brand points. They are made by Standard parts & available at many auto parts stores. (frontmount points also fit a 48 Ford as I recall) Beware of sticker shock: $16-18 a set. My next choices are Wells or Echlin. Look for a brown rubbing block. Unfortunately, many folks have experienced problems w/ points made by Tisco, Sparex, A&I Products and any TSC ignition parts..
Correct points installation & gap is also important. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points & you want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Make sure the blade is clean & that you dress the new points by running some card stock or a piece of brown paper bag through them. Gap is .015 on the frontmount on all four lobes of the cam. Make sure the points align correctly.
Even as tight as I am, I always change the condenser when I change the points…….and then I toss the condenser in the “used” parts box. A bad condenser is rare; you can tell if the points are pitted/burned w/ metal transfer.
Good hold-down screws are important. (tip # 37) If the heads are wallowed out, what do you think the threads look like? You can use machine screws as temporary replacements, but you should use the OEM Fillister head screws. The larger head is there for a reason. If you do use standard machine screws, make sure they aren’t too long & interfere w/ the advance weights. Always use star washers under the screws.
Timing is important to engine performance. Make sure you set the point gap before you set the timing. Timing a sidemount is pretty straight forward; it has marks on the flywheel. It’s a bit different for a frontmount but it’s a necessary part of a tune-up nonetheless. And, contrary to what some folks think, timing a frontmount is not accomplished by getting #1 to TDC & putting the distributor back on the engine!
When I was 16 years old making $1.25 an hour & a set of points cost $1, I filed points. I must have been good at it because I recall it was almost a weekly exercise. If you ever file a set of points, you will remove the metallic coating on them & reduce the life span considerably. Unless you plan to keep on filing them, plan on replacing them pretty soon!
And lastly………it does not matter if it’s 6 volt or 12 volt, you must use the OEM ballast resistor on a frontmount. Too much current to the points will burn them up in short order (leave the key on with the points closed & you will experience this “learning point” in about 3 minutes, tip # 38) For a 12v conversion on a frontmount, you probably need another resistor in the circuit as well but unless you measure the coil resistance, you will not know for sure.
NAPA Ford Tractor Part Numbers:
Front Mount distributor...
Points:
NAPA #CS35
Standard Ignition Blue Streak #FD-6769X (Premium)
Condensor:
NAPA #FA200
Standard Ignition #FD-71
Rotor:
NAPA #FA300
Standard Ignition #FD-104
Distributor Cap:
NAPA #FA350
Standard Ignition #FD-126
After you install the new points & set the timing, you need to do a continuity check on the distributor.
Make sure your meter/light works (don't ask....)
Now, follow these steps:
1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.
2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.
3. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!
4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!
At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil mis-aligned trying to put it back together one piece at a time & the result is something gets broken or you get a ‘no spark’ problem.
Post back w/ results or more questions.
50 Tips
