No start on 801

[725Gunner]

Hoping someone can tell me if anything looks wrong on this setup, so I can figure out why I am not getting a spark. I get the starter to crank, and the engine turns, there just isn't spark. It is converted to 12V and the points and condenser were replaced with an electronic ignition. Has new spark plugs and wires as well. I know there's no neutral start or start button installed, but it's not on wheels anyway. Thanks.

 

[old]

Hoping someone can tell me if anything looks wrong on this setup, so I can figure out why I am not getting a spark. I get the starter to crank, and the engine turns, there just isn't spark. It is converted to 12V and the points and condenser were replaced with an electronic ignition. Has new spark plugs and wires as well. I know there's no neutral start or start button installed, but it's not on wheels anyway. Thanks.View attachment 79886View attachment 79887View attachment 79888View attachment 79889View attachment 79890

Very simple way to trouble shoot is run a wire from the nonground side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil and see if it starts. If t does the problem is from the coil back to the battery if it doesn't problem is inside the distributor

 

[john in la]

First you need to tell us what solenoid you are using.
Is it the correct one for the tractor or one they stock at the auto parts store.

Next define no start.
Is this no crank or no run.

 

[725Gunner]

First you need to tell us what solenoid you are using.
Is it the correct one for the tractor or one they stock at the auto parts store.

Next define no start.
Is this no crank or no run.

It cranks, but I can't get a spark. As far as the solenoid I couldn't say, it's the one that was on the tractor when I bought it. And it ran when I bought it.

 

[old]

It cranks, but I can't get a spark. As far as the solenoid I couldn't say, it's the one that was on the tractor when I bought it. And it ran when I bought it.

As I said hot wire it and see what happens

 

[john in la]

Well since I do not know what parts you are using I will have to start guessing.

Lets talk about the solenoid only.
It has two small post right and left as you look at it.

(1)
First take off that red wire that goes from solenoid left post to key switch.
Does it still crank????

(2)
Second take off the Yellow (coil wire) from the right solenoid and touch it to the battery + post.
Do not permanently mount it because you will need to get it loose to kill motor.
Does motor start and run???

Post back with results.
From these test I will have a better idea what we are dealing with and can help you wire it correctly.

 

[ole fred]

If we can believe the wiring diagram, both low tension wires on the coil are hooked up to the distributor. That won't work.
One low tension wire should go to the distributor and the other should be hot from the key switch.
I can't follow the wires in the photos though.

 

[john in la]

If we can believe the wiring diagram, both low tension wires on the coil are hooked up to the distributor. That won't work.
One low tension wire should go to the distributor and the other should be hot from the key switch.
I can't follow the wires in the photos though.

With that flame thrower coil I suspect he has electronic ignition. Not sure but it has two wires to distributor and I believe it hooks to both sides of the coil.

 

[ole fred]

You may be right, that kinda rings a bell.
If so, maybe his electronic ignition isn't working.

 

[Sean in PA]

Yeah, the EI unit is inside the distributor and it requires a power feed from the hot side of the coil, and the other side of the coil is what gets the pulse that causes the spark. If there is no spark at all, even at the incorrect time, then there is a problem with the EI unit.

 

[Eman85]

looks like you have electronic ignition. Do you have a test light? Do you have power at the + side of the coil with the key in the run position? With the test light grounded touch the - side of the coil and try and start the tractor, light should blink. No power to the + side problem is back in the wiring, light blinks problem is secondary ignition. No blink open the cap and check primary further.

 

[john in la]

looks like you have electronic ignition. Do you have a test light? Do you have power at the + side of the coil with the key in the run position? With the test light grounded touch the - side of the coil and try and start the tractor, light should blink. No power to the + side problem is back in the wiring, light blinks problem is secondary ignition. No blink open the cap and check primary further.

The way he has it wired he is only supplying power to the coil while cranking.
I suspect the tractor starts fine but kills as soon as he moves the key from start to run.

I will explain in detail how the system works and wire he has wrong when I get home in the morning and can get back on my laptop.

 

[725Gunner]

Well since I do not know what parts you are using I will have to start guessing.

Lets talk about the solenoid only.
It has two small post right and left as you look at it.

(1)
First take off that red wire that goes from solenoid left post to key switch.
Does it still crank????

(2)
Second take off the Yellow (coil wire) from the right solenoid and touch it to the battery + post.
Do not permanently mount it because you will need to get it loose to kill motor.
Does motor start and run???

Post back with results.
From these test I will have a better idea what we are dealing with and can help you wire it correctly.

Will check tomorrow and let you know

 

[725Gunner]

looks like you have electronic ignition. Do you have a test light? Do you have power at the + side of the coil with the key in the run position? With the test light grounded touch the - side of the coil and try and start the tractor, light should blink. No power to the + side problem is back in the wiring, light blinks problem is secondary ignition. No blink open the cap and check primary further.

I don't have a test light. There is power at the plus side of the coil in the run position.

 

[725Gunner]

The way he has it wired he is only supplying power to the coil while cranking.
I suspect the tractor starts fine but kills as soon as he moves the key from start to run.

I will explain in detail how the system works and wire he has wrong when I get home in the morning and can get back on my laptop.

Doesn't even start, only cranks like it wants to.

 

[Jim.ME]

I don't have a test light. There is power at the plus side of the coil in the run position.

Please disclose what you are using to test with to avoid misunderstandings and other questions.

 

[725Gunner]

Please disclose what you are using to test with to avoid misunderstandings and other questions.

multimeter and spark plug tester

 

[john in la]

If there is power to the plus side of the coil in run position with the way you have it wired and the motor cranks over with the key in start position you are using parts I am not familiar with.
So I will just bow out and let others tackle this.

 

[Hdonly]

If it is an earlier Pertronix electronic ignition in the distributor, they are subject to failing if the ignition is left on for a long time without the engine running.

 

[Sean in PA]

Has the original push button neutral safety starter switch been bypassed or disabled? I don't see that in your wiring diagram.