old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
He says in his first post no safety switch any more so yes it is by passed some how
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It was removed, because it all had to be replaced anyway. Since it isn't on wheels didn't put a new one in.Has the original push button neutral safety starter switch been bypassed or disabled? I don't see that in your wiring diagram.
I guess I'm not sure what that might be. I've bought all the parts from this site.If there is power to the plus side of the coil in run position with the way you have it wired and the motor cranks over with the key in start position you are using parts I am not familiar with.
So I will just bow out and let others tackle this.
Sorry for the delay. If I remove the red wire it will no longer crank. When I put the yellow wire to the battery It doesn't start. The battery is fully charged. I am getting a good 3.5 ohms in between the pos and neg on the coil.Well since I do not know what parts you are using I will have to start guessing.
Lets talk about the solenoid only.
It has two small post right and left as you look at it.
(1)
First take off that red wire that goes from solenoid left post to key switch.
Does it still crank????
(2)
Second take off the Yellow (coil wire) from the right solenoid and touch it to the battery + post.
Do not permanently mount it because you will need to get it loose to kill motor.
Does motor start and run???
Post back with results.
From these test I will have a better idea what we are dealing with and can help you wire it correctly.
Tested as you said and did not start. I went with a spark plug right off the coil and the spark was definitely present. Besides a faulty electronic ignition, what should I look at in the distributor?Very simple way to trouble shoot is run a wire from the nonground side of the battery to the ignition side of the coil and see if it starts. If t does the problem is from the coil back to the battery if it doesn't problem is inside the distributor
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
Ah but is the spark strong enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap or more and is it blue/white in color. If not then you do not have a good enough spark to runTested as you said and did not start. I went with a spark plug right off the coil and the spark was definitely present. Besides a faulty electronic ignition, what should I look at in the distributor?
Yes it was definitely a bright spark, had no problem jumping to the engine block.Ah but is the spark strong enough to jump a 1/4 inch gap or more and is it blue/white in color. If not then you do not have a good enough spark to run
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
If you have that good spark and the engine is spinning over the problem is likely to be fuel or you have the firing order wrongYes it was definitely a bright spark, had no problem jumping to the engine block.
If you checked for secondary ignition (spark) at the coil and you have it there but not at the spark plugs then it's a problem in between them. Either coil wire, distributor cap, rotor, or spark plug wires are what's in between.Tested as you said and did not start. I went with a spark plug right off the coil and the spark was definitely present. Besides a faulty electronic ignition, what should I look at in the distributor?
Do you have a diagram of the firing order so I can verify if I have it right?If you have that good spark and the engine is spinning over the problem is likely to be fuel or you have the firing order wrong
old
Well-known Member
- Location
- Camdenton Missouri
One has to look at things to know where the #1 is on the distributor. If at some point it was pulled out and put back in the rotor can point to any of the 4 nipples on the cap. You need to get the #1 cylinder up at TDC and pull the distributor cap off and see where the rotor is pointing and also good idea to know which direction the rotor spins. Firing order is 1,2,4,3 with #1 being the cylinder that is by the radiatorDo you have a diagram of the firing order so I can verify if I have it right?
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