Not quick, but "easier" hitch

Beanmedic

Member
Health challenges make it difficult to hook up my brush hog and rollover box blade. Basically don’t have as much heft and muscle as I did a few years ago. Thanks to Ultradog MN who sent some pictures of a flex-link lift arm, I began work on an “easier hitch” system for my Jubilee. Started with a couple of lift arms off of fleabay, that came off a Ford 4000 series. They don’t have the spring clip exchange ball, but I think the price was fair ($150 for the pair). They are 4” longer than the ones on my Jubilee. But, if I had gone with the Pat’s system it would have added 4” also. I’m hoping to use existing sway bars by moving them back on their bracket.

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Tacked a Cat 1 bushing in the implement end ball. Can you tell I am no welder? Maybe it will hold. The bushing for the other end of the lift arm won’t have to be tacked because it is trapped when mounted on the tractor.

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Had to rebuild one of the plunger pin thingys. New compression spring from a local hardware store, new cable made, and a pull ring cut from galvanized fence top rail piece. Silver color is anti-seize. Not sure how that will work, but going to give it a try.

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New leveling box and side lift arm to accommodate the ¾” thick flex-link lift arms vs the ½” thick that are on the Jubilee now. They are also 2” longer to reach the lift point on the new lift arms. Had to bush the hole where they mount on flex-link arm. Grrrrr…wouldn’t go on the flex-link arms…fork not open enough. Took AWHILE to grind out enough metal to fit.

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Test mounting on Jubilee. Need to get measurements to see what size top link I’m going to need. Looks like I need one that is a little longer to get full range. And, stabilizer arms need to be 2” longer, even if mounted in the back hole of the bracket.

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Box blade is now MUCH easier to mount! No pry bar, no grunting! I’m sure I lost some lift capacity with the longer lift arms (I wonder how much), but think that is a fair trade off. I may need to lengthen the arms on the scoop and rollover blade so I can reach them easier. That shouldn’t be too difficult. Prep and paint planned when the weather is a little better. Thanks again to Ultradog MN for the idea!

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Now on to the next idea…
 
I like that an awful lot. Well done. My back blade is a bit big and doesn't raise up very high. With longer arms your implement will be higher when raised all the way.

You are giving me ideas. Part of the fun is building what you need rather than buying it.
 
Nice looking project! I'm glad that you came up with something that will make getting seat time easier.

Colin, MN
 
Great pictures for illustration too David. Thanks for that!
A similar mod may be in my future too if it works out well.
 
nice job
The next size longer cat 1 toplink (20" I think) available at TSC and other places will probably work well.
Make new sway bars, or weld on an extension.
The front pin mount for them must be kept in the hole
that aligns with front lift arm stud, to prevent binding.
 
Looks good David.
I am still spry but don't like having to move the impliment around to get it hooked up.
Someone ought to make those in a cat. 1 model.
Once people found out how helpful they are they would sell a bunch of them.
Don't move the sway bar to a different hole on the bracket.
You Must have them in line with the lower lift pin on the tractor or they will bind/bend/break something.
Make the sway bars longer instead.
And for your next project...
Start looking around for a remote valve for your Jube.
They are harder to find for an NAA, Jube but definately worth having.
Then you can build or buy a hydraulic top link.
You will never go back to a screw type.
I built my own from a cylinder I bought on Craigslist for $25 and sacrificed a top link for the swivel balls.

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nice to see those rippers, a friend of mine has the same rollover box blade, the tractor has been in his family since new, not sure when the blade showed up on it, but we have never found a set of rippers for it
 
(quoted from post at 06:20:48 02/25/14) nice to see those rippers, a friend of mine has the same rollover box blade, the tractor has been in his family since new, not sure when the blade showed up on it, but we have never found a set of rippers for it



i just bought a tractor that came with a scraper box without the rippers,so i did some searching and found these two places you can try: http://www.agrisupply.com/box-blade-shank/p/49686/ or Google: Agri Supply and also Google C&N tractor.

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if you look at the top of the scraper you can see i have the ripper bar up and the rippers are missing.
 
The blade is a Gill. Not sure if they are still in business or not.

Thank y'all for the advise on the sway bars. I had forgotten about the rational for the pin placement.

I agree a Cat I version of these would fly off the shelves! These Cat II versions are WAY heavier than I need. At least once mounted, the tractor bears that weight.

...and Ultradog...slow down...you are killing me! :wink:
 

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