Nuts and Rust...

[Britcheflee]

I am getting to the point of putting nuts back on bottom of con rods - the ones that came off are fine thread and have slots around the top - looks like a castle nut but not quite real thin slots - on one con rod there is a regular nut and what looks like a thin lock nut!
I read that it is recommended to replace these nuts. When I go to auto store they are having a problem with matching the nuts. I have also been told by a couple of older guys that it is ok to replace the old ones - just torque them down.
What to do? If recommended to replace what should I go in and ask for exactly?

Re Rust: Weather is closing in, I have tractor tarped but even so moisture from air caused some light surface rust on exposed engine parts last time it rained - this isnt going to affect anything is it? Going out now to give everything a spray down with wd40 to try to keep this at a minimum.

So far I have two pistons in the new sleeves!!!

Lee

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 18:56:54 05/14/11) I am getting to the point of putting nuts back on bottom of con rods - the ones that came off are fine thread and have slots around the top - looks like a castle nut but not quite real thin slots - on one con rod there is a regular nut and what looks like a thin lock nut!
I read that it is recommended to replace these nuts. When I go to auto store they are having a problem with matching the nuts. I have also been told by a couple of older guys that it is ok to replace the old ones - just torque them down.
What to do? If recommended to replace what should I go in and ask for exactly?

Lee

Use plain 3/8-24 hex nuts (grade 5 or 8) and a high strength liquid thread locker. Toss the Pal nuts.

TOH

 

[Ultradog MN]

Do as Hokie says.
A little light rust isn't going to hurt anything.
But jettison the WD40.
Use something heavier like LPS 2 or 3 or even PB Blaster.
A hand spray bottle with some lacquor thinner + some engine oil is handy for things like that. Dilute it enough so it still will spray. Cheap too.