O/T: Suspension bushing, stuck bolt... how to heat?

[MeAnthony]

I've got a stuck bolt that I'm trying to remove, preferably without destroying the rubber bushing. I don't have a torch, which would likely be too much heat anyway, unless carefully applied directly to the bolt head. I do have a Lincoln AC225 and I've heard the old farmer's trick of thawing frozen metal pipes with the leads. Would this work with a bolt as well? I would think the welder setting should be relatively low?

I'm going to try the C-clamp/press from my ball joint kit first. I was able to get one side apart; the bolt is approximately 14mm diameter but only the first inch or so by the head and the rest of the shank is slightly smaller. What is the purpose of this design? I'm sure cheaper to manufacture as there's less material in the bolt but is there more logic to it than that? It seems like the smaller end would be a sloppy fit but also means it's only stuck for that first inch.

This isn't exactly what I'm working with but it's pretty close. My swaybar links are farther outboard and I would have to remove that to get the balljoint press in there. Due to control arm design, I have to come at it from the spindle side and that's where the swaybar link gets in the way.

 

[Mike Groom]

They have a spray that freezes the bolt that I have used around gas tanks,there's a couple different brands CRC is one,they have it at O'reilly's,Auto Zone,Napa,etc.It works pretty well on things I have used it for.

 

[wore out]

NO amount of heat that's safe for the rubber bushing is going to be very effective at loosening the bolt, IMHO.

Give "loosen juice" some time to work, then try turning bolt with wrench back and forth, but not rough enough to tear rubber bushing.

Put nut part way back on as a guide, apply air hammer with appropriate punch tip, try a low setting at first and rattle on it a bit, if no joy, buck up a hammer or other heavy object against the bottom backside of the "yoke" so you don't spread it and turn up the air hammer and knock it loose.

 

[Determined]

Posting exactly what you are working on will get you better results.

The bolt you describe as having a stepped design may be an eccentric adjusting bolt, soaking and working it back and forth a little at a time may help, carefully rattling it with a blunt bit in an air hammer works sometimes as well.

 

[jal-SD]

Thawing frozen pipes with a welder works only if it's a DC welder, so I've been told. I have seen it done on a city line before. It was a city owned big military surplus DC generator/welder unit, Continental engine powered. + cable on one hydrant, - cable on another down the block. It made lots of smoke at the fire hydrant connections & that poor old Continental really bawled before the water started to flow. Will not work on PVC of course, must be cast iron pipe.

 

[Jaden]

In situations like that, I have found that along with some kind of penetrating oil, trying to rotate it works better than trying to drive it out. Once you get it to rotate freely, the battle is mostly over.

 

[db4600]

The last spring shackle I had replaced I ran into the same problem. My mechanic tried a color and nut with no success and then the impact with ample soaking which caused it to turn so before we destroyed the bushing he hung his induction iron directly on the bolt. About three rounds of this and penetrating oil with the impact it broke free of the bushing. The rust and the bushing prevented the rubber mount from melting.

 

[MeAnthony]

Good morning!

Vehicle is an '06 Dakota 4x4. I didn't think to get pictures of mine whilst it was up on jackstands. The photo above is nearly identical except for the fact that my swaybar links are about 2" outboard of the
strut.
The same bolt on the other side that I did get out had no offset/eccentric, just a reduced diameter on part of the shank like the one below. I don't understand the logic of this design..?

Thanks!

 

[MeAnthony]

Wow, that must have been something to see! :~)

Why would it only work with DC? You're basically creating a short circuit in which the pipe becomes the conductor/resistance/heat source, right? Essentially the same as a light bulb works but on a heavier scale? Not trying to dispute your statement, just trying to learn and understand the "theory of operation".

Thanks!

 

[rustred]

piece of cake. u need an air chisel/ punch to vibrate it out. no heat on rubber unless its the last resort and that part will be replaced. forget that welder idea. you have a stuck bolt in rubber so it takes vibration.

 

[david from mo]

I just went down that path on a 07 Dodge Dakota .I removed one by using my ball joint press. The other one not so good, the bushing pressed out of lower control arm! The customer okayed a new lower control arm.

 

[MeAnthony]

I tried 1/2" impact and breaker bar; impact wouldn't budge it, breaker bar was twisting the inner sleeve and rubber. I don't know if I'll have a chance to get back at it this weekend or not but you have a good point with rotating first and this'll be my first step again on the next attempt.

Thanks!

 

[DoubleO7]

Maybe the design is so the bolt or strut can only be assembled in the correct orientation.

Are the holes in the strut the same size on each side?
Does the nut have a built in sleeve that protrudes thru the strut yoke that is the same 14mm?

 

[MeAnthony]

I should add a few things:
vehicle is an '06 Dakota 4x4; stuck bolt is where left front strut connects to the lower control arm.
I have ordered another control arm bushing, just don't have the time right now for that whole process. And, well... I'm a little stubborn and don't want to give up that easily. Yeah it's just a control arm bushing but in some of life's situations you don't have the options of "just order one" or "throw some money at it"... I think the problem-solving mentality and a bit of endurance is a good thing. I have this conversation with my kids frequently, but now I'm digressing from the issue at hand.

 

[Determined]

Do you have the truck supported so that the load is relieved from the strut?

A ratchet and socket with the handle being lifted with a floor jack can apply a lot of force.

Worst case scenario cut bolt off on both ends with a sawzall then drill out the remains.

 

[MeAnthony]

Strut holes are the same size on both sides. No part of the sleeve protrudes through the strut yoke. My best guess is that the reduced shank bolt is just cheaper for the OEM...?

Thanks!

 

[DoubleO7]

Or a futile attempt to prevent the steel bushing in the rubber from freezing to the bolt.

Since the rubber is now turning inside the bushing and you have ordered new parts, can you get a sawsall blade in between yoke and bushing and cut off bolt at each side of arm?
Then you can move yoke out of the way and drive the old bushing out.

Looks like the new bolt does not have that larger dia. under the head.

 

[Hobo,NC]

With limited tooling that bushing is gonna be a chore to replace...

 

[Hobo,NC]

With no other tools recommended run down to the parts store and borrow a ball joint press and force it out... if you replace the bushing you are gonna need it I would not cut the bolt...

 

[Michael Soldan]

Spray with a good lubricant , soak the bolt and rubber , keep soaking it and moving it , you may be able to spin it out.

 

[miangus]

I have cut spring I bolts with a cut off disk. Messy but it works. That bolt is rusted to the steel bushing in the rubber.

 

[caterpillar guy]

The reduced size is supposed to help with preventing the problem you are encountering at this time. It is smaller to give clearance for removal. I like diesel fuel for these jobs it soaks in better than anything I have tried. If you want to mix a bit of old engine oil in with it fine. Then just keep soaking for a few minutes then go do something else for a few hours. If no joy after trying this put a weight behind the fork and drive it out with a big hammer. The bigger the better you don't have to swing as hard, and if it moves it moves easier. If it doesn't move it will do no more damage than pounding repeatedly with the small useless hammer. I like 2-4 pound hammers for those reasons. If somebody can be twisting the bolt as you hit may do more than anything for it. Heating then cooling with water will crack the rust loose and will also tend to harden the pieces too.