Odds and Ends on the 3000

[sweetskillsrk]

I'm doing some winter maintenance and updates on my 3000 gasser and I would like a few pieces of advice.

The previous owner took out the original fuel lines between the tank and the short tube at the carb, including the fuel bowl/screen. He replaced it with an in line fuel filter and a couple rubber hoses (see picture). I have a decent fuel bowl/screen assembly from my parts 3400. Should I replace the in line filter with the original setup? On the occasion, the tractor does bog down and the RPMs fluctuate significantly, almost shutting off. I always thought it was the carb or junk in the fuel tank, but after reading a bunch of other posts, could the in line filter be part of my problem? I've read about fuel flow tests on other posts and I haven't done that yet, probably should to verify where the issue could be.

I'm going to add the neutral safety switch back into the system (it was removed by the PO as well). I have what I believe to be a good switch and wire set from the 3400. It looks like it has continuity when the ball bearing is in and there is no continuity when it's further out. Is that correct? Looks like there's a couple dimples in the hi/low shaft so the ball slides into one of those and thus loses continuity when the tractor is in gear. Makes sense to me, just verifying.

I'm going to finally change the hydraulic and rear end oil. I have a big Ford tractor service manual, but I can't find anything about doing fluid changes? I believe the plug is directly below the seat on the bottom of the center axle housing and the level plug is the square one on the right. I've read it takes anywhere between 6 gallons and 8 gallons?

I would like to keep a spare coil on hand, but I can't figure out which one I need to go with. The whole internal or external resistance is confusing me. I've read a lot of posts but don't understand the end goal of the resistor in this case.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Sean in PA]

I'm doing some winter maintenance and updates on my 3000 gasser and I would like a few pieces of advice.

The previous owner took out the original fuel lines between the tank and the short tube at the carb, including the fuel bowl/screen. He replaced it with an in line fuel filter and a couple rubber hoses (see picture). I have a decent fuel bowl/screen assembly from my parts 3400. Should I replace the in line filter with the original setup? On the occasion, the tractor does bog down and the RPMs fluctuate significantly, almost shutting off. I always thought it was the carb or junk in the fuel tank, but after reading a bunch of other posts, could the in line filter be part of my problem? I've read about fuel flow tests on other posts and I haven't done that yet, probably should to verify where the issue could be.

I'm going to add the neutral safety switch back into the system (it was removed by the PO as well). I have what I believe to be a good switch and wire set from the 3400. It looks like it has continuity when the ball bearing is in and there is no continuity when it's further out. Is that correct? Looks like there's a couple dimples in the hi/low shaft so the ball slides into one of those and thus loses continuity when the tractor is in gear. Makes sense to me, just verifying.

I'm going to finally change the hydraulic and rear end oil. I have a big Ford tractor service manual, but I can't find anything about doing fluid changes? I believe the plug is directly below the seat on the bottom of the center axle housing and the level plug is the square one on the right. I've read it takes anywhere between 6 gallons and 8 gallons?

I would like to keep a spare coil on hand, but I can't figure out which one I need to go with. The whole internal or external resistance is confusing me. I've read a lot of posts but don't understand the end goal of the resistor in this case.

Thanks in advance!

So the fuel line goes directly from the tank to an in-line fuel filter and then to the carb? The original fuel delivery on that tractor was via a mechanical fuel pump up on the front of the engine. I would look into putting it back to original. If the fuel tank isn't kept at least half full, without a pump, gravity is not enough to keep the fuel flowing properly when going up hills. The steeper the hill, the more fuel needs to be in the tank. Some in-line fuel filters are not designed to handle the flow required by a large tractor like yours also, so I would get rid of that when going back to original.

Your observation on the functioning of the neutral safety switch is correct.

As for the fluid changes, the Operator's Manual, which some folks call the Owner's Manual, covers all of the routine maintenance items like fluid and filter changes, and the Service Manual was written assuming that you would have access to the Operator's Manual, so it doesn't cover those routine maintenance items.

The original coil for your tractor was designed to use an external resistance when used in a 12 volt system. Disconnect the wires from the two small posts and measure the resistance across those posts with an ohmmeter. If it measures around 1.5 ohms, then it needs an external resistance when run in a 12 volt system, and if it measures around 3 ohms, then it has enough internal resistance for a 12 volt system and does not require an external resistor. If it is the type that needs an external resistor and it is running well without burning up the points, then it has either the original external resistance wire or an external resistor somewhere in the wiring between the coil and the ignition key switch.

 

[Sean in PA]

I forgot to add that there were a few different neutral safety switch designs on the 3000/3400 models depending on which transmission they had and when they were made. The 4 speed manual and 4x4 auto reversing trans used the same switch. The 6 and 8 speed and manual reversing transmissions used the same switch during the same time ranges, with the early one being used before 10/1/66, and the later one being used from 1/1/66 onward.

 

[Btzj02]

The coils main purpose is to increase the voltage to the spark plugs but a secondary function of the coil is to limit the current through the points. An electrical coil of wire has a characteristic that creates a resistance to current flow based on the number of coils of wire. The more coils of wire, the greater the Ohm, resistance, reading/ rating it will have. A 6 volt system is designed with a specific coil to produce the high voltage spark and it is also designed with a specific current output through the points. If you change the tractor electrical system to a 12 volt system and change nothing else the current through the coil and the points will double. (Current= Voltage/Resistace.) The tractor may run for a while but eventually that coil will over heat and the points will burn. The solution to return the current flow back to design specifications is to double the circuit resistance. This can be done in one of two ways. Install a resistor in the line to the coil or increase the resistance of the coil it's self. Note that the coil does not have a resistor inside, but has an increased number of coils which increase the Ohm reading, resistance, through the coil.

 

[Mike(NEOhio)]

We have a 2000, about the same thing. When dad got it he bypassed the fuel pump so it's just gravity feed. Only time I've had a problem was when a piece of dry leaf got stuck in the sediment bowl inlet. You will probably be fine without the pump, just get rid of the inline filter.

 

[Fixingfarmer]

Screen on the bowl will do better if it’s the same threads and fits I’d get rid of the inline and go all metal. It will keep the junk in the tank. Hose wise go buy a flaring tool or some of the tool stores even let you borrow. And a bunch of the good brake line that’s not made out of steel. Much safer than that rubber hose I have a older Ford 2000 that when it showed up the fuel line that runs down between the exhaust ports since it’s on the other side on the 4 cylinder was rubber! It wasn’t very old but that I considered unacceptable. A carb fire and a few that were a bit bigger than that and things of that nature stick out like a sore thumb. You will have an afternoon in it learning the tool and a couple tries bending the brake line but the new stuff bends good more difficult to kink and you will have a fuel line that will last a very long time. Then you also have the option to pick a better route than the manufacturer did sometimes they are just plain bad spots and inconvenient.

 

[sweetskillsrk]

I don't know what I was thinking. I know it has the transfer pump up front and assumed it was working, but you're totally right, all the fuel lines and the pump are completely bypassed. Now I feel like a real dumby, haha. I have the spare fuel lines from the 3400 so I'll look at getting those installed or may just make some JIC hoses, not sure yet. Routing hoses would be alot easier than those crazy tubes. Mine is a '67 3000 so all the fuel lines are on the opposite side of the exhaust so any hoses would be fine. I'll clean the fuel screen one more time in my ultrasonic cleaner and start planning on putting it back close to original. Does anyone know what type and size the female fitting on the fuel shutoff valve is? Inverted flare, 7/16 - 24? I might put the transfer pump back in place, but I've seen a lot of posts say the new ones are junk?

I'll try to find an Operator Manual and see if that might help fill in the gaps.

Thank you for explaining ignition coils. I will check mine and order one next time I order parts.

What type of bulb does the dash take? They're 12V bayonet bulbs, BA9 style I think? After some searching and looking around on Rock Auto, I think 1816 bulbs might work?

Thanks for answering all my random questions.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I'm doing some winter maintenance and updates on my 3000 gasser and I would like a few pieces of advice.

The previous owner took out the original fuel lines between the tank and the short tube at the carb, including the fuel bowl/screen. He replaced it with an in line fuel filter and a couple rubber hoses (see picture). I have a decent fuel bowl/screen assembly from my parts 3400. Should I replace the in line filter with the original setup? On the occasion, the tractor does bog down and the RPMs fluctuate significantly, almost shutting off. I always thought it was the carb or junk in the fuel tank, but after reading a bunch of other posts, could the in line filter be part of my problem? I've read about fuel flow tests on other posts and I haven't done that yet, probably should to verify where the issue could be.

I'm going to add the neutral safety switch back into the system (it was removed by the PO as well). I have what I believe to be a good switch and wire set from the 3400. It looks like it has continuity when the ball bearing is in and there is no continuity when it's further out. Is that correct? Looks like there's a couple dimples in the hi/low shaft so the ball slides into one of those and thus loses continuity when the tractor is in gear. Makes sense to me, just verifying.

I'm going to finally change the hydraulic and rear end oil. I have a big Ford tractor service manual, but I can't find anything about doing fluid changes? I believe the plug is directly below the seat on the bottom of the center axle housing and the level plug is the square one on the right. I've read it takes anywhere between 6 gallons and 8 gallons?

I would like to keep a spare coil on hand, but I can't figure out which one I need to go with. The whole internal or external resistance is confusing me. I've read a lot of posts but don't understand the end goal of the resistor in this case.

Thanks in advance!

I see that filter on another post, normally when someone adds an external filter they have a issue with a contaminated fuel tank. There is a reason for it look for a rusty fuel tank. Good clean fuel is hard to beat a contaminated fuel tank will always win the battle. I just went thru getting a 2000 back to stock configuration lucky for me the previous owner's did not muck up the original fuel lines. After getting the original system back to working I have picked up some trash in the carb I should have spent more time cleaning the original fuel lines. I have got good at making gaskets for a Holley carb its time consuming.

The filter is notcher problem and never is most any filter I have had in my hands will flow good clean fuel. There is no special filter they all get restricted its the contamination they remove and last I checked that's what they are spouse to do. A special filter is a myth take care of the issue as to why its there. Get that in yer head and life will be good.

If the original resister wire is there the original coil will do the job no need to fudge with a conversion.

I have 1895 as the bulb I have used.

Coils I would need the OEM part #, These are 12V coils listed as used with external resistor wire are resistor.

IC10 1.42-1.58 ohms
IC12 1.25-1.36
IC13 1.57-1.73

 

[Btzj02]

I am trying a 12v BA9s LED bulb on my instrument panel. It physically fits but it will be a while before I get the electrics energized.

 

[Sean in PA]

The filter is notcher problem and never is most any filter I have had in my hands will flow good clean fuel.

I have seen many in-line filters cause problems because the people buying and installing them have no clue. They go to Tractor Supply and buy an in-line gasoline filter not realizing that the one they are buying is designed for a lawn tractor, which has way lower fuel flow requirements than a full size tractor.

 

[Hobo,NC]

I have seen many in-line filters cause problems because the people buying and installing them have no clue. They go to Tractor Supply and buy an in-line gasoline filter not realizing that the one they are buying is designed for a lawn tractor, which has way lower fuel flow requirements than a full size tractor.

I see your point brother, my point is contamination plays the better part of the issue, eliminant the contamination life will be good.