oil bath air cleaner

At the time, it was most likely the best way to clean the air being pulled into the engine. As the air gets pulled in, impurities (dust mainly) get deposited in the oil. To clean, loosen the band clamp holding the bottom section. The bottom and main housing have flared ends that are squeezed together by the clamp. Once the bottom section is off, dispose of the oil inside ( put with the oil removed from the engine, since you should change this when you change your engine oil) Clean with any automotive parts cleaner, and dry. There will be a level line marked on the piece, fill only to this line withe same oil you use in engine. Match the 2 parts up, tighten down the clamp, and you're ready to go
 
When you remove the bottom cup from the whole assembly and look into the cup you will see a concave dish. Remove this dish prior to cleaning....just sits in there.

After cleaning, replace the dish and place that and the cup on a flat surface. Fill with oil to the line as stated and when you have done that, the lower cup and the dish will be full of oil.

30 wt used to be the oil of choice but I use whatever is handy. As stated, the vacuum caused by the engines intake sucks the oil up into the wire mesh, giving you a lot of surface area, where it is held in suspension. As the dirt passes the mesh it attaches to the oil just as dust does anywhere else you have oil and dust can get to it.

Shutting off the engine removes the vacuum and the weight of the oil, now dust laden, drains back to the cup. Gravity and sitting over time, allows the dirt to settle out of the oil onto the bottom of the outer cup. Real simple, but apparently not cheap (for the tractor mfgr.)cause air has replaced it. Neat thing was you didn't have to buy a $50 filter like you have to do with dry filters when they need a change......that sucker never needed to be changed; just drained, cleaned and reinstalled. We (the industry) must have missed something along the way. Hmmmmmm

Mark
 
The metal filter mesh inside the canister can get set tight with dryed oily mud. Depends on the hours, amount of dust, humidity, temperature, detergent or non detergent oil, oil viscosity and how often the filter was serviced.
If required,the solution is to soak and boil out the mesh without ruining it.
 
i've not found anything better to clean oily things with than super clean by castrol. at wal mart in a gallon purple jug. do not use this inside if you can help it. use only in a well ventalited area. it will take you breath and if your having trouble all ready with breathing be very careful with this stuff. burns cuts if it gets on them, but is a great clearner. i spray the area to be clean with air first to remove all lose materials, spray with kerosene and let set 10 minutes and the apply the super clean. if you get it on a painted surgface it will either streak it or remove the paint all together. hose off with as much water pressure as you think necessary. i've let parts dry after cleaning them and then apply a good primer and paint with no problems in behind the super clean. i know some of you will jump on me for this, but i burned my breather out when i redid my tractor 9 years ago. with the oil coating it right back i never had a problem with it. don't be suprised that you have holes in the cup when you take it off and clean it.
 
Industry didn't miss anything. Paper element filters remove more and much finer particles than will oil bath. Today's engines would likely be oil burners rather quickly if we went back to oil bath filters.
 
Well, I can't comment on that. Have no idea how to make a comparison. I will give you this: Most come with an outer and inner filter to get the really fine particles.

Mark
 
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