oil Drip pan question 1966 IH Cub Lo Boy Tractor

[scott 1234]

Afternoon all: Question ; have you ever replaced the oil pan gasket on a 1966 Cub Lo-Boy? I am about to. [there is some leak somewhere on the bottom of this tractor, i cant see where, so i figured it was time to remove the oil drip pan etc and then see if its there etc]..

if you have this model tractor - you know there are 5 bolts on either side of the pil drip pan.. BUT QUESTION: ARE THER ANY holes /bolts ON THE ENDS of the pan holding it in place?
you see... i ordered a new gasket from Steiner, they said they sent me the right one..- in the catalog picture it shows 12 holes... with 2 pre drilled holes on each end.. interestingly, in what they then actually sent me has zero holes it int at all [not even the 5 and 5 side ones]..
so my first QUESTION; ARE There really any holes/bolts on either end of the drip pan holding it in place? or jsut the 5 and 5 on either side [if there are end holes/bolts how in the world do you get to them, there is no room nor do i see any bolts for them underneath]?]

--other QUESTION; how tight should any bolt be? i worried that these current 5 and 5 bolts would be hard way to take off after all these years- actually i found. they were actually easy. almost too easy. each one turned with little effort of my wrench.
note; i haveNOT taken the whole thing off yet [ why? because if you tell me there really are 2 hidden bolts on either end.. i am like- oh well- how will i ever get to them to remove :0. ] thanks. for advice folks.. i know there is a '66 cub lo boy owner out there with all the know how on all of this stuff :0)

 

[DoubleO7]

@grandpa Love is our Cub guru extraordinaire.

The @grandpa Love will alert him to look at this dilemma and provide the correct answer.

Are you sure there are not pre cut bolt holes in the gasket to push out the rest of the way?

 

[Janicholson]

Afternoon all: Question ; have you ever replaced the oil pan gasket on a 1966 Cub Lo-Boy? I am about to. [there is some leak somewhere on the bottom of this tractor, i cant see where, so i figured it was time to remove the oil drip pan etc and then see if its there etc]..

if you have this model tractor - you know there are 5 bolts on either side of the pil drip pan.. BUT QUESTION: ARE THER ANY holes /bolts ON THE ENDS of the pan holding it in place?
you see... i ordered a new gasket from Steiner, they said they sent me the right one..- in the catalog picture it shows 12 holes... with 2 pre drilled holes on each end.. interestingly, in what they then actually sent me has zero holes it int at all [not even the 5 and 5 side ones]..
so my first QUESTION; ARE There really any holes/bolts on either end of the drip pan holding it in place? or jsut the 5 and 5 on either side [if there are end holes/bolts how in the world do you get to them, there is no room nor do i see any bolts for them underneath]?]

--other QUESTION; how tight should any bolt be? i worried that these current 5 and 5 bolts would be hard way to take off after all these years- actually i found. they were actually easy. almost too easy. each one turned with little effort of my wrench.
note; i haveNOT taken the whole thing off yet [ why? because if you tell me there really are 2 hidden bolts on either end.. i am like- oh well- how will i ever get to them to remove :0. ] thanks. for advice folks.. i know there is a '66 cub lo boy owner out there with all the know how on all of this stuff :0)

caseih parts store diagram
I count 5 bolts on each side, then three on each end. It is rather rectangular in shape. Several sources show this as having two "end" holes. So in all cases there are bolts on the ends. Yesterday Tractor Parts shows the 3 bolt ends in a complete gasket set, and two bolt ends in a single gasket for the Oil pan. The diagram is from case IH. all the gaskets have appropriate holes. I use Permatex High tack sealer on the pan side of the gasket only using grease or Vaseline on the top side of the gasket surfaces. I adhere the gasket to the pan so it is stuck there (using bolts to align it on the bench and waiting so it is stuck down well. Then assembling. tighten only enough to cause the gasket to uniformly swell just a bit as it is pinched. Tighten in stages!! Jim

 

[used red MN]

They must have sent you a “Valve Tappet Side Cover Gasket” the cover behind the carburetor and manifolds. See link.(underlined words) Valve Tappet Side Cover Gasket
It would have not holes. Like I told you on the other forum what you want is an “oil pan gasket” there “drip” is not its name.

 

[old]

Afternoon all: Question ; have you ever replaced the oil pan gasket on a 1966 Cub Lo-Boy? I am about to. [there is some leak somewhere on the bottom of this tractor, i cant see where, so i figured it was time to remove the oil drip pan etc and then see if its there etc]..

if you have this model tractor - you know there are 5 bolts on either side of the pil drip pan.. BUT QUESTION: ARE THER ANY holes /bolts ON THE ENDS of the pan holding it in place?
you see... i ordered a new gasket from Steiner, they said they sent me the right one..- in the catalog picture it shows 12 holes... with 2 pre drilled holes on each end.. interestingly, in what they then actually sent me has zero holes it int at all [not even the 5 and 5 side ones]..
so my first QUESTION; ARE There really any holes/bolts on either end of the drip pan holding it in place? or jsut the 5 and 5 on either side [if there are end holes/bolts how in the world do you get to them, there is no room nor do i see any bolts for them underneath]?]

--other QUESTION; how tight should any bolt be? i worried that these current 5 and 5 bolts would be hard way to take off after all these years- actually i found. they were actually easy. almost too easy. each one turned with little effort of my wrench.
note; i haveNOT taken the whole thing off yet [ why? because if you tell me there really are 2 hidden bolts on either end.. i am like- oh well- how will i ever get to them to remove :0. ] thanks. for advice folks.. i know there is a '66 cub lo boy owner out there with all the know how on all of this stuff :0)

Add some dye lite to your oil and run it. It is a oil dye made just for finding just where the leak is coming from . O'Reilly's part number was at least when I got the dye lite I have is TP3090

 

[Mrfred54]

On a cub lo boy with a mower deck, to remove the oil pan you either have to raise the front of the tractor and unhook the mower so it does not raise with the tractor or remove the mower from the tractor. There is no room to remove the pan on a lo boy, it will lower but not enough to get the pan by the oil pump suction tube. I just changed an oil pan gasket on a farmall cub and got the gasket from steiners. There was pre cut holes in the gasket with nock out pieces.

 

[grandpa Love]

Afternoon all: Question ; have you ever replaced the oil pan gasket on a 1966 Cub Lo-Boy? I am about to. [there is some leak somewhere on the bottom of this tractor, i cant see where, so i figured it was time to remove the oil drip pan etc and then see if its there etc]..

if you have this model tractor - you know there are 5 bolts on either side of the pil drip pan.. BUT QUESTION: ARE THER ANY holes /bolts ON THE ENDS of the pan holding it in place?
you see... i ordered a new gasket from Steiner, they said they sent me the right one..- in the catalog picture it shows 12 holes... with 2 pre drilled holes on each end.. interestingly, in what they then actually sent me has zero holes it int at all [not even the 5 and 5 side ones]..
so my first QUESTION; ARE There really any holes/bolts on either end of the drip pan holding it in place? or jsut the 5 and 5 on either side [if there are end holes/bolts how in the world do you get to them, there is no room nor do i see any bolts for them underneath]?]

--other QUESTION; how tight should any bolt be? i worried that these current 5 and 5 bolts would be hard way to take off after all these years- actually i found. they were actually easy. almost too easy. each one turned with little effort of my wrench.
note; i haveNOT taken the whole thing off yet [ why? because if you tell me there really are 2 hidden bolts on either end.. i am like- oh well- how will i ever get to them to remove :0. ] thanks. for advice folks.. i know there is a '66 cub lo boy owner out there with all the know how on all of this stuff :0)

I'm assuming you are talking about the oil pan? I wouldn't even attempt replacing the gasket with the mower on the tractor. You will have to remove the half moon bell housing cover to even see the back 3 bolts. You will need a swivel head socket ( not a socket and swivel, too bulky) getting those 3 bolts out is the worst part, until you have to install them . Use a little black gasket goo to help hold the gasket in place. I can't find torque specs for these bolts BUT do not over tighten..... Your gasket should look like this .... If you don't have any holes in your gasket it's not the right one.... Probably for the "valve cover" behind the carb.

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

they said they sent me the right one

Their records say they sent you the right one. Doesn't mean that the shipping team picked the right one to pack, or that the wrong gasket wasn't in the "right" bin to pick from, or the wrong gasket was in the "right" package.

The phone answerer on the other end of the line isn't going to know. They're not tractor experts. They're paid and trained to handle order problems. You need to tell them they sent the wrong one and why, not ask them if they sent the wrong one.

"I ordered the ABC1234 Farmall Cub oil pan gasket. The gasket that arrived is the wrong size and does not have any holes in it. It does not match the picture in your catalog/website. I believe the wrong gasket got shipped from the warehouse."
vs.
"Did you send me the wrong gasket?"

 

[rustred]

myself i like to have eyes on the leak before tearing into something hoping to fix a leak. wash it nice and clean spray it with brake clean then you can see were its actually coming from once you use the tractor.

 

[used red MN]

I can see where Mfred may have the answer. The holes are there just not punched out. Nothing against the OP but if I was looking at it and didn’t put on my cheaters I would probably swear there was no holes there either.

 

[grandpa Love]

I can see where Mfred may have the answer. The holes are there just not punched out. Nothing against the OP but if I was looking at it and didn’t put on my cheaters I would probably swear there was no holes there either.

The size will be the true test .... Valve cover gasket much smaller. Should be a visual difference

 

[Jim Becker]

. . . You will have to remove the half moon bell housing cover to even see the back 3 bolts. . . . BUT do not over tighten.....

Adding emphasis to not over tighten, particularly the 3 at the back. They screw into a part made of pot metal, which is particularly easy to strip the threads out of.

When you get this job done, if there was much of a leak it probably is from the rear crankshaft seal. Fixing that is a whole different task. It requires splitting behind the engine, removing the clutch and fly wheel, then accessing the seal. Then you will probably find the seal retainer is warped and no longer has a firm grip on the seal. You can then have the retainer reworked for a seal with an oversize OD.

 

[scott 1234]

Good evening everyone .. and thanks you all !
- i am late getting back to this.. because besides everything else..- my computer died. and i had to get new one. and besides not being good on the tractor- with comp tech- and all.. i am not much better [so finally got computer running now phew] anyway.
couple things..

a. GASKET HOLES i called Steiner. yep they said the holes are pre punched - they must be on other side of sealed package [ cant see any from one side of cellophane packaged, and since i didn't want to open it at first in case i had to return. that explains that- so the pre punch is on the reverse side] so that solves that mystery.
b. COLOR DIE & IGHT BOLTS as to idea of color die.. great idea.. i think ill try that.. to help determine where leak may be from . [as mentioned, the existing screws holding the oil pan [btw . looks like never previously removed/ changed as the paint is still all around the edges of pan ] took only a finger pressure on wrench to turn to loosen those 5 bolts on each side. - hence i thought they seemed loose- ill tighten them a little a bit i guess - just not too much]
C> BOLT REMOVAL CHORE yeh.. as to removing the 3 bolts nearer to, and by means of access via the bell housing [than the 3 on other end near front] yeh - that sounds like an awful job.
if i can attach a photo.. i see what seems to be a plate - ill mark / point at with the RED arrow] held on by about 4 screws. that is also near that end of the oil pan ..but since no one mentioned this plate. i assume also. that removal of it will not ease access to those 3 end bolts of the oil pan ? i was thinking , just maybe, they had that plate there easily removable to get to the end bolts.. i guess not huh? [and why on earth would they build it so you cant easily just remove the pan. :0/

D. LIFTING TRACTOR and finally.... you must be kidding.--.[i know you are not]-- they made it so you have to take the deck off , or lift it up, first,.. to remove the pan. why cant anything be easy . :0)

thanks again...
there are a bunch of other things needed on this old tractor.. i had thought i was starting with the easiest of things.. change filter, and clean out pan and any potential leaks.
.... ill be back .for more great advice :0)... thanks.
see photo.. red line is to that plate that looks like it could come off.. but i guess that wont help?

 

[Janicholson]

Good evening everyone .. and thanks you all !
- i am late getting back to this.. because besides everything else..- my computer died. and i had to get new one. and besides not being good on the tractor- with comp tech- and all.. i am not much better [so finally got computer running now phew] anyway.
couple things..

a. GASKET HOLES i called Steiner. yep they said the holes are pre punched - they must be on other side of sealed package [ cant see any from one side of cellophane packaged, and since i didn't want to open it at first in case i had to return. that explains that- so the pre punch is on the reverse side] so that solves that mystery.
b. COLOR DIE & IGHT BOLTS as to idea of color die.. great idea.. i think ill try that.. to help determine where leak may be from . [as mentioned, the existing screws holding the oil pan [btw . looks like never previously removed/ changed as the paint is still all around the edges of pan ] took only a finger pressure on wrench to turn to loosen those 5 bolts on each side. - hence i thought they seemed loose- ill tighten them a little a bit i guess - just not too much]
C> BOLT REMOVAL CHORE yeh.. as to removing the 3 bolts nearer to, and by means of access via the bell housing [than the 3 on other end near front] yeh - that sounds like an awful job.
if i can attach a photo.. i see what seems to be a plate - ill mark / point at with the RED arrow] held on by about 4 screws. that is also near that end of the oil pan ..but since no one mentioned this plate. i assume also. that removal of it will not ease access to those 3 end bolts of the oil pan ? i was thinking , just maybe, they had that plate there easily removable to get to the end bolts.. i guess not huh? [and why on earth would they build it so you cant easily just remove the pan. :0/

D. LIFTING TRACTOR and finally.... you must be kidding.--.[i know you are not]-- they made it so you have to take the deck off , or lift it up, first,.. to remove the pan. why cant anything be easy . :0)

thanks again...
there are a bunch of other things needed on this old tractor.. i had thought i was starting with the easiest of things.. change filter, and clean out pan and any potential leaks.
.... ill be back .for more great advice :0)... thanks.
see photo.. red line is to that plate that looks like it could come off.. but i guess that wont help?

From Grampa Love's post above--"You will have to remove the half moon bell housing cover to even see the back 3 bolts." That is the flywheel cover and it is what you will need to remove to take off the 3 rear bolts! Jim

 

[grandpa Love]

From Grampa Love's post above--"You will have to remove the half moon bell housing cover to even see the back 3 bolts." That is the flywheel cover and it is what you will need to remove to take off the 3 rear bolts! Jim

Ahhhh.... My use of simple terms was lost .

 

[grandpa Love]

Good evening everyone .. and thanks you all !
- i am late getting back to this.. because besides everything else..- my computer died. and i had to get new one. and besides not being good on the tractor- with comp tech- and all.. i am not much better [so finally got computer running now phew] anyway.
couple things..

a. GASKET HOLES i called Steiner. yep they said the holes are pre punched - they must be on other side of sealed package [ cant see any from one side of cellophane packaged, and since i didn't want to open it at first in case i had to return. that explains that- so the pre punch is on the reverse side] so that solves that mystery.
b. COLOR DIE & IGHT BOLTS as to idea of color die.. great idea.. i think ill try that.. to help determine where leak may be from . [as mentioned, the existing screws holding the oil pan [btw . looks like never previously removed/ changed as the paint is still all around the edges of pan ] took only a finger pressure on wrench to turn to loosen those 5 bolts on each side. - hence i thought they seemed loose- ill tighten them a little a bit i guess - just not too much]
C> BOLT REMOVAL CHORE yeh.. as to removing the 3 bolts nearer to, and by means of access via the bell housing [than the 3 on other end near front] yeh - that sounds like an awful job.
if i can attach a photo.. i see what seems to be a plate - ill mark / point at with the RED arrow] held on by about 4 screws. that is also near that end of the oil pan ..but since no one mentioned this plate. i assume also. that removal of it will not ease access to those 3 end bolts of the oil pan ? i was thinking , just maybe, they had that plate there easily removable to get to the end bolts.. i guess not huh? [and why on earth would they build it so you cant easily just remove the pan. :0/

D. LIFTING TRACTOR and finally.... you must be kidding.--.[i know you are not]-- they made it so you have to take the deck off , or lift it up, first,.. to remove the pan. why cant anything be easy . :0)

thanks again...
there are a bunch of other things needed on this old tractor.. i had thought i was starting with the easiest of things.. change filter, and clean out pan and any potential leaks.
.... ill be back .for more great advice :0)... thanks.
see photo.. red line is to that plate that looks like it could come off.. but i guess that wont help?

Bring your tractor to us..... My wife and I can remove the mower, drop the oil pan, clean everything up, install the new gasket and mower in about 2 hours..... If we don't hustle

 

[BarnyardEngineering]

Good evening everyone .. and thanks you all !
- i am late getting back to this.. because besides everything else..- my computer died. and i had to get new one. and besides not being good on the tractor- with comp tech- and all.. i am not much better [so finally got computer running now phew] anyway.
couple things..

a. GASKET HOLES i called Steiner. yep they said the holes are pre punched - they must be on other side of sealed package [ cant see any from one side of cellophane packaged, and since i didn't want to open it at first in case i had to return. that explains that- so the pre punch is on the reverse side] so that solves that mystery.
b. COLOR DIE & IGHT BOLTS as to idea of color die.. great idea.. i think ill try that.. to help determine where leak may be from . [as mentioned, the existing screws holding the oil pan [btw . looks like never previously removed/ changed as the paint is still all around the edges of pan ] took only a finger pressure on wrench to turn to loosen those 5 bolts on each side. - hence i thought they seemed loose- ill tighten them a little a bit i guess - just not too much]
C> BOLT REMOVAL CHORE yeh.. as to removing the 3 bolts nearer to, and by means of access via the bell housing [than the 3 on other end near front] yeh - that sounds like an awful job.
if i can attach a photo.. i see what seems to be a plate - ill mark / point at with the RED arrow] held on by about 4 screws. that is also near that end of the oil pan ..but since no one mentioned this plate. i assume also. that removal of it will not ease access to those 3 end bolts of the oil pan ? i was thinking , just maybe, they had that plate there easily removable to get to the end bolts.. i guess not huh? [and why on earth would they build it so you cant easily just remove the pan. :0/

D. LIFTING TRACTOR and finally.... you must be kidding.--.[i know you are not]-- they made it so you have to take the deck off , or lift it up, first,.. to remove the pan. why cant anything be easy . :0)

thanks again...
there are a bunch of other things needed on this old tractor.. i had thought i was starting with the easiest of things.. change filter, and clean out pan and any potential leaks.
.... ill be back .for more great advice :0)... thanks.
see photo.. red line is to that plate that looks like it could come off.. but i guess that wont help?

You'll know for sure you have the correct gasket once the oil pan is off, I guess. Luckily there are no lives or livelihoods depending on this machine being operational, so even if you got the wrong gasket it won't be a big deal to be down for a few days waiting on a replacement. I would expect the pre-punched hole "bits" to have been removed before packaging, or at least there be evidence that the holes have been punched THROUGH the gasket.

I'd give pulling the oil pan the old college try with the deck in place before pulling it. Disconnect the lift chains for the mower deck, and jack the front of the tractor up, setting the front wheels on 6" (or more) of blocking.

 

[rustcollector]

Afternoon all: Question ; have you ever replaced the oil pan gasket on a 1966 Cub Lo-Boy? I am about to. [there is some leak somewhere on the bottom of this tractor, i cant see where, so i figured it was time to remove the oil drip pan etc and then see if its there etc]..

if you have this model tractor - you know there are 5 bolts on either side of the pil drip pan.. BUT QUESTION: ARE THER ANY holes /bolts ON THE ENDS of the pan holding it in place?
you see... i ordered a new gasket from Steiner, they said they sent me the right one..- in the catalog picture it shows 12 holes... with 2 pre drilled holes on each end.. interestingly, in what they then actually sent me has zero holes it int at all [not even the 5 and 5 side ones]..
so my first QUESTION; ARE There really any holes/bolts on either end of the drip pan holding it in place? or jsut the 5 and 5 on either side [if there are end holes/bolts how in the world do you get to them, there is no room nor do i see any bolts for them underneath]?]

--other QUESTION; how tight should any bolt be? i worried that these current 5 and 5 bolts would be hard way to take off after all these years- actually i found. they were actually easy. almost too easy. each one turned with little effort of my wrench.
note; i haveNOT taken the whole thing off yet [ why? because if you tell me there really are 2 hidden bolts on either end.. i am like- oh well- how will i ever get to them to remove :0. ] thanks. for advice folks.. i know there is a '66 cub lo boy owner out there with all the know how on all of this stuff :0)

From the looks of the second photo, I would look hard at the front crankshaft seal. It appears that oil is from front to back of engine indicating being blown by the fan. Correcting with a new seal and possibly speedi sleeve will require removing the front axle and the pulley.

 

[scott 1234]

Ahhhh.... My use of simple terms was lost .

happy Easter.
thanks again. so two things.
firstly.. i guess when you mentioned the bell housing.. removal.. i had something else in my mind as i read your text.. i was thinking of ths round thing on the other side. [ i know there must be a name for it too] ill show you what was stuck in my mind as you said remove the cover plate. so ok. yeh. i get it... the HALF moon ..plate got it, not this round plate. :0).. im a little slow i guess.

secondly. not sure if i hit send when i replied to teh 2 hour fix you mentioned. but yeh. let me know when you and your wife will be in north jersey next.. happy to see a pair of experts at work :0) [plus i can hand you my list of other things needing repair that i am sure is way beyond me :0)

see below the pic of the thing i had in my mind.. that i now realize was not what you were talking about to remove.
take care. thanks for suggestions....