Oil filter

[Brian60950]

Hello.

I am trying to change the oil on what I think is a 2N tractor.

I took the oil filter out & the element is inside an aluminum can. It's an aluminum tube with holes, and the top & bottom look like they're designed to come off. The filter I ordered from this site looks like it's designed to fit inside this can.

I can't get the can apart, nor can I find where I can order a new can.

I'm not talking about the steel can that the entire thing goes into.

I'd post a picture if I need to.

I just need to know if that aluminum can the filter element is inside is designed to be a throw-away part or if I'm supposed to somehow get it open without destroying it. I'm afraid to try any kind of tools other than my hands because it's flimsy. Thanks.

 

[Tom N MS]

Should be no dis-assembly or re-assembly of the
filter--just drops in the steel filter can..be sure
to use the rubber washers where you are suppose to
or you will take an oil bath..and waste new oil..

 

[Brian60950]

So the filter element sold on this site just drops right into the steel can?

It's not even the same diameter as the aluminum thing that came out.

I'd post a picture but the forum software still thinks I'm a spammer from China or something.

 

[Royse]

Welcome to the forums.
Some brands of filters had a metal can around them, others didn't.
I'm not really sure if it was just a difference in brands
or if there was some engineering behind it.
Maybe others will know, I like that kind of information.
As Tom said though, the new filter should just slide in and seal.

 

[Brian60950]

Cool. I'll just stick that thing in there & try it.

It seems to me that it would make more sense to NOT have the aluminum can around it.

The replacement filter element has the rubber seals on the top & bottom so I guess that's all that really matters.

Now if I can just remember where I put the drain plug for the filter can...

 

[Colin King]

These tractors use a canister filter. This is what they can look like. This particular filter had a paper outer lining.

I really recommend spending the extra $$ and purchasing the NAPA filter (part # FIL-1010). I've not been impressed with the N filters from our good hosts. That's unusual, as I generally find their parts to be of good quality. The NAPA filter also has a loop at the top to make removal easier.

Colin, MN

 

[Brian60950]

That's what I'm looking at. Just like in the photo except cleaner looking after I wiped it down with a rag.

Both the filter from YT and the one that came out had the little flip-up thing for lifting it out.

The way I see it though, anything's gotta be better than the one I just took out.

It's my dad's tractor. It was in the barn when he bought the place in 2003. He said he's changed the oil every 2 years or so. He said it doesn't use an oil filter, like it's a Briggs & Stratton push mower or something. I looked at the remains of what used to be an owner's manual, & showed the old man "it's in this steel can here on the side". He said "... oh". So I ordered a filter for it but didn't end up needing to use the tractor again til we got something like 40 inches of snow dumped on us so far this winter.

The plan is to change the oil & put in thin oil like 5W-30 and run it about 30 minutes & change it again, repeat, then change it again & use a 70/30 mix of Rotella T diesel oil & Lucas. (it smokes really bad)

 

[Royse]

Pull the spark plugs, dump some Automatic Transmission Fluid
in each cylinder and let it set for a week. Add some every day
if the cylinders run empty.
After that week, roll it over with the plugs out to blow out the
remaining ATF. It will make a mess.
Then change your oil and go work the snot out of it.
The combination of the ATF and the heat from working it can
free the rings up and stop the smoking.

Edit: Here's a link to my results from that treatment. 640

 

[Colin King]

It might smoke because the oil has thinned (someone forgot the fuel shut-off) or because the oil was too light to start with.

I would recommend Rotella 15W40 or Farm Oyl 15W40 unless you see a lot of sub-zero temps. If that's the case, look towards a 10W30 (this will depend on your oil pressure, too), but be prepared to change again once warmer weather shows up, as oil pressure may not hold up in 90* heat with 10W30.

Colin

 

[Brian60950]

Mercon, Dextron, or Type F? :mrgreen:

I'll do that, .. just as soon as the weather forecast permits leaving the engine OFF for a whole week.

I live about 50 miles south of Chicago. This winter we've gotten more snow than I've seen in at least a decade. I'm supposed to go to Gary, IN tomorrow & pick up an abandoned 18 wheeler but I think I'll put it off til Wednesday because we're supposed to get another 4-6 inches of snow tomorrow.

I think I'm just gonna go ahead & use the oil filter I ordered from YT and run it with thin oil, smoking all over the place, just long enough to re-open the driveway tomorrow night then if there's no more snow in the forecast I'll fill 'er up with ATF.

I think I'll drain out the temporary oil (I'm just gonna do that cuz I know that there will be a spike in oil pressure that'll dislodge some sludge) and leave the drain plug out all week with an empty drain pan so I can tell if the ATF is getting past the rings.

 

[Anonymous-0]

"Back in the day", aftermarket outfits sold toilet paper oil filter kits that, when assembled, were much as you describe. If it's NOT a steel filter as has been pictured here, it may well be one of those.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 21:28:15 02/03/14) It might smoke because the oil has thinned (someone forgot the fuel shut-off) or because the oil was too light to start with.

I would recommend Rotella 15W40 or Farm Oyl 15W40 unless you see a lot of sub-zero temps. If that's the case, look towards a 10W30 (this will depend on your oil pressure, too), but be prepared to change again once warmer weather shows up, as oil pressure may not hold up in 90* heat with 10W30.

Colin

Ok, ... so I'll add an oil pressure gauge to the list of things I need to order for this thing.

I've been using Rotella 15W40 because my company buys it in huge drums. They maintain a fleet of 180 semi-tractors & 250 refrigerated trailers.

 

[Royse]

(quoted from post at 22:48:25 02/03/14)

(quoted from post at 21:28:15 02/03/14) It might smoke because the oil has thinned (someone forgot the fuel shut-off) or because the oil was too light to start with.

I would recommend Rotella 15W40 or Farm Oyl 15W40 unless you see a lot of sub-zero temps. If that's the case, look towards a 10W30 (this will depend on your oil pressure, too), but be prepared to change again once warmer weather shows up, as oil pressure may not hold up in 90* heat with 10W30.

Colin

Ok, ... so I'll add an oil pressure gauge to the list of things I need to order for this thing.

I've been using Rotella 15W40 because my company buys it in huge drums. They maintain a fleet of 180 semi-tractors & 250 refrigerated trailers.

Glad Colin brought that up.
If I only had one working gauge on my tractor it would be the OP gauge.
In fact, if you look at that second pic of my 640, it's the only one in the dash!
That tractor is a work in progress. (like the others aren't!)

Don't expect a lot of OP from your 2N though.
40 PSI cold, 20 hot would be excellent in my book.
Folks have said they will run on a lot less.
I run 15W-40 in mine here in Michigan without issue.
I have also run them on 10W-30 and straight 30 in the past.

 

[Ken N Tx]

(quoted from post at 20:08:30 02/03/14) Hello.

I am trying to change the oil on what I think is a 2N tractor.

I took the oil filter out & the element is inside an aluminum can. It's an aluminum tube with holes, and the top & bottom look like they're designed to come off. The filter I ordered from this site looks like it's designed to fit inside this can.

I can't get the can apart, nor can I find where I can order a new can.

I'm not talking about the steel can that the entire thing goes into.

I'd post a picture if I need to.

I just need to know if that aluminum can the filter element is inside is designed to be a throw-away part or if I'm supposed to somehow get it open without destroying it. I'm afraid to try any kind of tools other than my hands because it's flimsy. Thanks.

Filter chart...

 

[souNdguy]

type f preferably.. though dex/merc 3 is ok

post a pic of the oil filter and housing you have.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 13:58:03 02/04/14) type f preferably.. though dex/merc 3 is ok

post a pic of the oil filter and housing you have.

On the left is the filter sent to me by this site. On the right is the one I removed from the tractor, after wiping it down. The pic might be a little confusing, ... that's the handle of a 1/2" drive Snap-off ratchet behind the filter on the left & they're sitting on the edge of a table saw.

A few posts up, somebody posted a picture with a list of brands & part numbers. Today at the farm store & bought a Fram C-3P filter. It's got the aluminum on the top & bottom but the sides appear to be some kind of cardboard. I'd take a pic but it's snowing sideways at 40 mph & it's out in the barn & I'm too lazy to go out there.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:40:36 02/04/14)

(quoted from post at 13:58:03 02/04/14) type f preferably.. though dex/merc 3 is ok

post a pic of the oil filter and housing you have.

On the left is the filter sent to me by this site. On the right is the one I removed from the tractor, after wiping it down. The pic might be a little confusing, ... that's the handle of a 1/2" drive Snap-off ratchet behind the filter on the left & they're sitting on the edge of a table saw.

A few posts up, somebody posted a picture with a list of brands & part numbers. Today at the farm store & bought a Fram C-3P filter. It's got the aluminum on the top & bottom but the sides appear to be some kind of cardboard. I'd take a pic but it's snowing sideways at 40 mph & it's out in the barn & I'm too lazy to go out there.

like the WIX51010 myself & it looks like the right one in your picture.

 

[souNdguy]

both filters you show fit.

some have a metal grating. some a cardboard sleeve.. some nothing but the pleated paper.. some a full cage.

all depends on the price of the filter and who made it.

 

[Brian60950]

(quoted from post at 08:30:28 02/05/14) both filters you show fit.

some have a metal grating. some a cardboard sleeve.. some nothing but the pleated paper.. some a full cage.

all depends on the price of the filter and who made it.

Is there any difference in performance of the filter or just looks?

I'd tend to think the plain ones without the full metal jacket would be better, .. just less stuff blocking the oil from flowing through it.

I could be wrong though. It's happened once or twice before.

 

[Brian60950]

I started it up. After a few seconds oil started squirting out the top of the steel filter housing. I pulled the top off, put the rubber gasket back in place in the cap, put it back on. Same thing, just slower.

I took the old gasket & put it in there with the new one. Yeah I know, double-gaskets ain't good. But it freakin' worked & it ain't leaking.

Methinks the filter sold by this site comes with a gasket that's too thin to do the job, or maybe my cap is warped.

 

[Josh Cronk]

I have to double up the gaskets on mine to, and I buy the Wix filters. I have tried a few different brands of filter and all will leak unless you double up the gaskets. I like the construction of the Wix/ Napa gold the best, so I just stick with those and double up the gaskets, hasn't leaked since.
I think the lids get warped or crushed from being over tightened over the years.

 

[souNdguy]

the cheapest you can get is a fram C3, from there .. pretty much all the crosses are gonna be for all intents and purposes about equal.. including the C3P.

the c3 is a bargain 3.99 filter.. most of the others are 5-7$ your call.

it's a partial flow system anyway.. just about anything in there that looks like a filter is going to work. even the 4$ C3

 

[nlastovi]

for whatever it is worth... I agree 100%. The worst oil filter (and oil for that matter) today is likely very much better than anything from the 1930's.

 

[Brian60950]

They oughta make replacement lids for those things.

I only ran that tractor about 30 min. after the oil change. I plan to change it again soon just because the stuff that came out was like tar.

After the oil change, at half throttle it was showing 22 psi cold, then 20 psi after it warmed up.

I won't get to it for a few days. Got called out on a truck recovery mission.

I call it a "mission" because it makes me feel important.