Oil for 8N--the final answer is?

[ffrnempt]

I know there's lots of previous information on this, but I'm just looking for some direct opinions.

The consensus on the forum seems to be modern detergent motor oil for our old 8Ns. There's a bit less consensus on multi-grade, but that seems less imprortant to me. Oil is better now than it was in 1949.

The guy at NAPA lost his mind about me puting anything but non-detergent oil in an 8N. "You're gonna bust all that sludge loose!" The 30 wt oil he said I "should" use says on the bottle that it is "not suitable for gasoline engines manufactured after 1934."

So please, what do you guys use in your 8N engines?

Thanks Again

 

[MattCatlin]

Oil experts say detergent oil keeps sludge suspended--but its not a solvent, so it will not loosen up existing sludge, but will prevent new sludge. 10-30 seems good for winter, maybe a little heavier if your engine is worn.

 

[Bob]

What do I run in mine? 15-40 Rotella diesel oil.

"You're gonna bust all that sludge loose!", the NAPA guy told you... what oil has been used in the tractor up to this point? Have you (or the PO) REALLY stillbeen using non-detergent? WOW!

 

[JMOR]

You are just trying to start a thread that will run on for days.

or maybe

Anything you want to use that fits your climate will be just fine. Don't worry, it will all work out.

 

[Bruce (VA)]

Pick the weight of the oil by the condition of the engine (oil pressure) & the outside temperature. Many folks use 30w detergent all year. A straight weight oil is probably ok in a hot climate, but you will get excessive engine wear on startup in cold climates. (That’s one reason multi-vis oil was invented) A worn engine is going to need a heavier weight oil to maintain oil pressure at operating speed & temp. Many use 10w30, 15w40 or even 20w50. Some like the newer diesel rated oil because of the additives for the flat tappets & highly recommend Shell Rotella T 15-40 (I'm not convinced that my 2400 rpm N engine needs the same oil as my 65 Mustang did) Anyway, IMHO, use a multi-vis detergent oil. Increase the weight if the engine has low oil pressure. And, BTW, switching to detergent oil is not going to loosen up the sludge in the engine. While choosing oil brands & weights are sometimes subjective, the use of detergent vs non-detergent shouldn’t be debatable given the oil available today. Plenty of studies disprove the “stir up the sludge” myths; here is one:



http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Detergent%20Oil



Print a copy of the link & take it to the NAPA guy.

Change the oil when the engine is hot. If you have the OEM fittings, you will need a 1-1/16” open end wrench for the drain plug & a 7/8” box end wrench for the oil filter canister bolt. If your canister has a drain plug, you will need a 7/16” box end wrench for that. (If it doesn’t, suction it out or wick it out w/ rags) Make sure your waste oil pan holds 6 quarts. Look at the size of that drain plug; the first 5 quarts of oil will come out, along w/ the plug, in about 2 seconds, so get the pan as close as possible to the bottom of the pan. Or, get out the Kitty Litter because you will have oil splashed all over the place. Have a new oil plug gasket on hand or be prepared to make one. Clean the pan squeaky clean of all previous gasket sealer & the old gasket. Do not use Permatex or any other sealer except Never-Sieze on the new gasket. Make sure your drain plug has the screen on it. If not, get a new plug. Clean the screen. I use NAPA 1010 oil filters. Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. Do not forget to use the 7/8” wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Save the old gasket until you check the canister for leaks. The new gaskets are sometimes thinner than the older ones & are prone to leakage. If yours leaks, re-install the old gasket. Clean the oil breather, add 6 quarts of oil & save a little for the cup in the air filter.
50 Tips

 

[Ultradog MN]

Use modern 10w30 or 20w40 detergent oil in your tractor depending on your oil pressure and ambient tempuratures.
Use UTF, HyTrans or TransHydraulic fluid meeting Ford 134D specs in your tranny and hydraulics.
Use modern moly wheelbearing grease in your wheel bearings. Use John Deere cornhead or "ought 2" grease in your steering box.
Use 12V with an alternator.
Use electronic ignition.
And if you can affortd it add live hydraulics to your N.
All are improvements - big improvements - over what originally came with your tractor.
Your tractor will run better, longer and more trouble free if you do.

 

[JMOR]

(quoted from post at 23:12:21 01/23/10) Use modern 10w30 or 20w40 detergent oil in your tractor depending on your oil pressure and ambient tempuratures.
Use UTF, HyTrans or TransHydraulic fluid meeting Ford 134D specs in your tranny and hydraulics.
Use modern moly wheelbearing grease in your wheel bearings. Use John Deere cornhead or "ought 2" grease in your steering box.
Use 12V with an alternator.
Use electronic ignition.
And if you can affortd it add live hydraulics to your N.
All are improvements - big improvements - over what originally came with your tractor.
Your tractor will run better, longer and more trouble free if you do.

Or take the short cut & buy a newer tractor.

 

[old]

I use O'reilly's brand 30W oil in almost every thing I own. By the way it is the same oil as Valvoline oil since it is made by Valvoline. Been using it for more then a decade and have never had a problem with it. Only tractor I do not use it in is my 1935 JD-B and I use a 50 or 60W oil in it ALL of them I use a detergent type oil so that guy in NAPA doesn't have a clue as to what he is talking about

 

[ffrnempt]

That's EXACTLY what I told him I was going to run! The same thing I run in my 6.0 powerstroke.

 

[Anonymous-0]

No. Just an answer. I've wanted one of these tractors for decades, and I finally have one. Just want to do the best I can for it.

 

[ffrnempt]

Sometimes the guys who know the least seem to talk the loudest.

 

[Bob]

IMHO, it's hard to beat Rotella.

 

[old]

Yep and you opened your big mouth you new bee fool

 

[old]

Sorry aboutthat didn't look before I posted. Just seemed you where putting what I said down

 

[ffrnempt]

I'm "Old" too, and a "Newbie," and.....not the sharpest tack in the box.....Sorry.

 

[souNdguy]

30w in the summer, 15w40 or 20w50 in the winter in temperate or 15w40 arctic climates.. 40w in desert climates.

soundguy

 

[BillM (OH)]

I too run 15-40 Rotella in my 8N's, 861 and my 7.3 Powerstroke - has worked OK for 10 years now.

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 23:15:06 01/23/10)

(quoted from post at 23:12:21 01/23/10) Use modern 10w30 or 20w40 detergent oil in your tractor depending on your oil pressure and ambient tempuratures.
Use UTF, HyTrans or TransHydraulic fluid meeting Ford 134D specs in your tranny and hydraulics.
Use modern moly wheelbearing grease in your wheel bearings. Use John Deere cornhead or "ought 2" grease in your steering box.
Use 12V with an alternator.
Use electronic ignition.
And if you can affortd it add live hydraulics to your N.
All are improvements - big improvements - over what originally came with your tractor.
Your tractor will run better, longer and more trouble free if you do.

Or take the short cut & buy a newer tractor.

Now now Jesse - informed enlightenment can get you banned in some societies.... :wink:


TOH

 

[G6 at Snook, TX]

I am trying Rotella 15-40 for south-central Texas. It is fine for the winter and fall. In a few months I will know if I am headed back to straight 40w when it gets hot around here (90-100 degrees). I also add a touch of Lucas oil stabilizer to it, though some will disagree with that trick.

I have heard many here and elsewhere sing the praises of Rotella T as a motor oil. I have used it in my diesel truck and have had no issues.

 

[old]

That ok this time of the year seem a person has to be on guard because cabin fiver creeps in and causes problems on Y-T

 

[Anonymous-0]

As I said before, I use it in my 6.0L diesel, 15 quarts at a time--there is always a quart left over, so why not use it in my tractor?

 

[Lumpy]

I run Rotella 15-40 in my 2n year round. Here in Iowa the seasons change dramatically and have never had a problem.

 

[Ken(Ark)]

(quoted from post at 07:25:47 01/24/10) I am trying Rotella 15-40 for south-central Texas. It is fine for the winter and fall. In a few months I will know if I am headed back to straight 40w when it gets hot around here (90-100 degrees). I also add a touch of Lucas oil stabilizer to it, though some will disagree with that trick.

I have heard many here and elsewhere sing the praises of Rotella T as a motor oil. I have used it in my diesel truck and have had no issues.

At operating temperature aren't both 15-40w and 40w the same thickness ?

 

[TheOldHokie]

(quoted from post at 00:13:39 01/25/10)

(quoted from post at 07:25:47 01/24/10) I am trying Rotella 15-40 for south-central Texas. It is fine for the winter and fall. In a few months I will know if I am headed back to straight 40w when it gets hot around here (90-100 degrees). I also add a touch of Lucas oil stabilizer to it, though some will disagree with that trick.

I have heard many here and elsewhere sing the praises of Rotella T as a motor oil. I have used it in my diesel truck and have had no issues.

At operating temperature aren't both 15-40w and 40w the same thickness ?

Yes - although there will be a small difference due to differences in the formulation. The SAE viscosity grade number is a range not a specific viscosity. So both oils will be in the SAE 40 range but they will almost surely have slightly different viscosities. The multi-grade is likely to be a bit lower in the range if the oils are both the same brand but that's not a sure thing. In any event the difference is so minimal it's unlikley you can tell the difference outside of a testing laboratory.The same is true if you compare two mono-grade SAE 40 oils - one will be slightly thicker than the other - only way to know which is heavier is to get the product data sheets for both oils.

TOH