oil pressure gauge

[dbrannon-HT]

I have read and read but can't find the answer I am looking for. I have a Yanmar 2000D with loader. I am chasing an oil pressure "light" problem. Started with a flickering light that changed to steady bright when RPMs were increased. Shut engine off immediately. Changed the oil (15-40) and filter (Hoye). Restarted the engine and light stayed off for about 15 minutes of light usage then flickering light came back on. This time the light went off with increased RPMs and came on at low idle. Shut the engine off again. Engine is running strong with no noise or oil leaks. I ordered 2 of the brass fittings from Hoye and purchased an oil pressure gauge so I can see what is happening with pressure (not installed yet). I want to keep the annunciator light and pressure gauge. If I use the new fitting from Hoye and install a T, the OLD pressure switch will not match the new threads. (QUESTION 1) What kind/type of pressure switch do I need to install into the NPT threads to connect to the light? Obviously, if I change from metric to NPT threads the Yanmar pressure switch will not match the NPT threads. (QUESTION 2) It looks like I will need to remove the brace that supports the loader that runs directly under the sump plate. I am curious as to whether the screen on the oil pickup may be getting restricted. Do I need to support the loader if I need to remove this support? I am going to go ahead and order the pressure relief valve to have on hand in case it may be the culprit. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[winston-HT]

You could screw one of your adapters into the port on the tractor block, then a close 1/8"npt nipple, next 1/8"npt tee, next one adapter for your old sensor and adapt the other outlet to you gauge. You didn't state what threads your gauge has.

Without seeing a picture of the loader brace I have no idea whether removing it could cause danger or not.

 

[dbrannon-HT]

I am planning on using the adapter with metric threads in the block and continue from there with NPT threads to new sender and gauge. Just need to know if I can go to the Auto parts store and purchase a generic sending unit (switch) for the oil pressure light. Does it need to meet any specific pressure level to turn the low pressure light on, 3 PSI, 10 PSI. At what pressure does the light need to come on indicating low pressure on this engine?

 

[winston-HT]

<LINK_TEXT text="http://www.hoyetra...port/knowledgebase.php?article=47</LINK_TEXT>

I expect this one would work but don't buy it on my say so. <LINK_TEXT text="http://www.oreilly...arch_ps30_-1_652&amp;keyword=ps30</LINK_TEXT>

 

[Norm-HT]

Replace your sender.

 

[dbrannon-HT]

Got the fittings installed for gauge and light last night. Backed the tractor out of the shop and let it run for 10/15 minutes. Filled the plastic line to the gauge during decompression prime. Start up cold it had 60 PSI at low idle. After initial warm up raised the RPM to 1800. Pressure dropped from 60 to 40 after several minutes. Lowered RPM to around 800 and pressure went back up to 60 PSI. Seemed odd that pressure increases at low idle and drops at higher RPM. My experience, pressure increases when RPM is raised. Did notice the pressure gauge needle jumping around at high (1800) steady RPM. Needle would jump around from 40 to 50 PSI at steady RPM. This just may be the sensitivity of the gauge. I am going to work the tractor this afternoon moving a few scoops of dirt and dragging with the scrape blade. I will see what the pressure does during a brief workout. Oh, I did put on a new sender in the process.

 

[dbrannon-HT]

All appears to be well. Took my tractor out again today and moved a pile of dirt and used the scrape blade to level it out. Ran it for about 45 minutes. Oil pressure on the gauge never dropped below 40 PSI and the pressure light did not come on. The queasy feeling in my stomach is also getting better. Next project is to permanently mount the oil pressure, water temp and volt meter gauges. I am going to have a friend design and cut me an aluminum plate to mount all the gauges (and lights) on the left side of my dash. I will have to do away with the turn signal and horn button on that side but they are really not needed anyway. It looks like the pressure switch was the culprit. Idiot lights are good for warning but I really like mechanical gauges so I can monitor what is going on.

 

[alan-HT]

On my 226, there's a black metal cover under the lower half of the steering wheel. It slants 45 degrees from just in front of the hydraulic-fluid filler to just under the black vertical dash where the key goes.

I removed that cover, installed the gauges (oil, voltage, temp) in it -- plus a light on each side with a switch -- and put it back. It's a good spot, if yours is similar.

 

[dbrannon-HT]

Finally found time to mount my oil and temp gauges. I removed my horn button and turn signal switch and cut 2 (2 inch) holes in the dash panel to mount the gauges. I still need to find the correct size radiator hose adapter so I can reconnect my water temp warning light. I am going to order the updated fuse panel and tackle it next along with my charging light that comes on occasionally. Gauge installation went very well with no problems and looks good.