OK Ford 2N starting issues....

[DanielW]

There's not really anything else for it except diving in and determining what's up with the float/needle/seat and why it's not seating the needle. No point trying to worry about how it's running until that's fixed. Ultimately, somethings up in the needle/float/seat. Not much to it except to take apart and check everything. Post lots of pictures here when you have it apart - showing the float, needle, seat, how the float is sitting with the carb upside-down, etc. Has to be one of a few things:

- Float level set too high (in this case, note that when we say 'high' or 'up' those directions refer to 'high/up' when the carb is mounted upright on the tractor, not flipped upside-down on the bench for testing/setting.
- Float bent improperly, so pontoons are in correct spot but needle is not
- Pontoons bent out too wide or in too narrow and catching on the carb body
- Seat not threaded into carb body fully, or threaded in without gasket
- Something preventing the float from moving up fully other than needle bottoming out on seat
- Crack in carb body letting gas come in via another passage other than the seat (rather doubtful).

Note that if an old gasser is choked extensively and cranked continuously, it can suck up a lot of gas into the intake body, often to the point where some will drizzle out the air intake. But once it drains out, it won't keep coming out (unless you kept cranking). When yours was leaking out the air intake, I'm assuming it was doing so indefinitely (i.e., if you left the fuel tap on it would have just kept leaking until the tank was empty). But if it was only leaking for a bit, it might be as simple as something choking it off too much while cranking (or just a lot of cranking with the choke out). I rather doubt this, because it was running. But let us know if it was leaking continuously (as I presume) or just had some fuel in the intake that stopped leaking once the little bit had leaked out. If something is choking it out, then checking the choke linkage and oil level in the air cleaner would be things to look at. Not uncommon for folks to over-fill the oil-bath air cleaners to the point it chokes out the engine. But from the sounds of your symptoms, I don't think that's the issue. I think it's one of the above bullet points.

 

[Non-farmer]

Now it starts!!

Congrats on the progress

Have no fear, it sounds like you're close now. I have faith that wiser folks than me can get you across the finish line at this point.

 

[soaked]

Here are a few spots to check.
The idle circuit starts at the bottom of the acceleration well. A .048 wire will come out the stepped passage, just above the main jet, its visible in this pic.

Nozzle side holes can need poking, these are torch tip cleaner wires, like in the pic above. Fuel for the idle circuit comes out the .037 hole down near the end.

With the idle mix screw removed a thin guitar wire can be seen poking through from the top idle orifice.

A wire from Idle jet can come out the upper orifice. Wire from vent hole can be seen in idle mix screw hole.
A wire in the Lower idle orifice only goes in a short amount, and the end isn't visable .

 

[MeanGene1]

Torch tip cleaners will be your friends

 

[NowinWestTN]

Update: I tore the carb apart and cleaned it thoroughly. All the passages seem to be clear, parts cleaner flows thru all passages and wire tips pass thru.
Now it starts fine, idles fine. But full throttle it runs rough. Sputters at full throttle. I tried adjusting the main jet screw (back end of carb) and it doesn't seem to do much to smooth it out. If I turn it in too much it will start to sputter more and die.

Note: I am running without an AC and hose attached (could that be an issue?)

 

[Duner Wi]

In this instance air cleaner hose not attached is not your problem. with engine idleing pull off a spark plug wire. Do you have a nice blue spark that will jump a gap of at least 1/2 inch?

 

[NowinWestTN]

In this instance air cleaner hose not attached is not your problem. with engine idleing pull off a spark plug wire. Do you have a nice blue spark that will jump a gap of at least 1/2 inch?

I have a spark gap tester that I have used set to 1/4", each cylinder is giving me a 1/4" spark.
But here is some additional info, I just got back in from the shop and the more I ran the tractor the worse it seemed to get as far as running at speed. Became a little harder to start also, but still seemed to idle fine.

Could the coil be the culprit and getting hot? Even with it giving me the 1/4" spark?

 

[Duner Wi]

I like a spark with mostly blue . If it is yellowish red I would change the condenser if you have points ignition. I would think you could have 3/4 to 1 inch blue spark.