Old tire question.

[Brian G. NY]

Old tubes are way better quality than the new ones. I have seen new ones fail the day after being installed. The old ones are made of much better rubber.

I agree wholeheartedly!! My Dad put new Monkey Wards tires and tubes on the WD we rebuilt in 1959.
I have since put larger tires on it but I still have one rear tire that is mounted on the new wheel we installed back then and it's still holding air.
It seems to me that the Goodyear brand back then was the most durable. I have no idea who made tires for Wards.

 

[Brown Dirt Cowboy]

Doing a search, I see that the 1510 was built from 1983 to 1986, could it possibly have come with tubeless tires?

 

[Jf family]

Doing a search, I see that the 1510 was built from 1983 to 1986, could it possibly have come with tubeless tires?

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

If the tire is mounted tubeless the stem will be tightly sealed to the rim with a metal washer and nut. If it has a tube the stem will likely have a round nylon nut (some used metal nuts) holding it loosely from slipping back inside the rime when deflated. These pictures may help you identify tube or tubeless. I am going to guess tubes.

 

[Russ from MN]

Back in about 1960 my father bought some tractor tire reliners, I believe at TSC in S St Paul MN. it was a continuous boot that went all the way around. I understood they were made from old airplane tires and lasted forever on the Farmall M.

 

[Jf family]

If the tire is mounted tubeless the stem will be tightly sealed to the rim with a metal washer and nut. If it has a tube the stem will likely have a round nylon nut (some used metal nuts) holding it loosely from slipping back inside the rime when deflated. These pictures may help you identify tube or tubeless. I am going to guess tubes.

View attachment 169038View attachment 169039

Thank you will check that out tomorrow.

 

[showcrop]

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

You should not add air! it is ruining your rims.

 

[Jim.ME]

You should not add air! it is ruining your rims.

We might as well drop posting more on this line of advice; it is obvious he doesn't believe some of us because the rims look good on the outside and others are telling him to just add air. We offered our advice, he can use it or not, his choice now.

 

[Rich'sToys]

Are you saying that fluid alone will inflate a tire to the proper pressure? That doesn't make any sense.

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you saying that fluid alone will inflate a tire to the proper pressure? That doesn't make any sense.

No, I and showcrop are saying adding air to a leaking tube/tire with a calcium/water mix in it only speeds up the rusting process. The air pushes liquid out through the hole(s). Exposure to the liquid and air speeds rim rusting, which generally can be bad before anything shows on the outside beyond seeping around the tube valve stem at the hole in the rim.

Full ballast fill is generally considered as just a bit over the top of the rim on a tubeless tire when the tire is vertical. This level keeps the rim submerged and oxygen from the metal of the rim preventing rusting. The air in the space above the liquid provides the cushion and lets the tire flex. Any oxygen that is in the cushion at the top will allow some minimal rusting to occur initially however the oxygen is soon used up and rusting stops; until you add more air, with oxygen in it. The lower the liquid and more air added equals more rim rusting. The same level fill level and air cushion apply with a tube in the tire. And the same principal applies if the tube is leaking inside the tire, air in fluid out equals more rim rusting.

People blame calcium ballast for rusted rims. The true cause is not repairing any leaks as soon as noted either by visible fluid from around the tube stem or having to add air regularly to maintain inflation, aka improper maintenance. JMHO

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you saying that fluid alone will inflate a tire to the proper pressure? That doesn't make any sense.

I should have included that you could fill a tire to the recommended pressure with fluid by positioning the full point and venting all air out. The result would be a very hard ride as fluid does not compress (in an appreciable amount in such an application).

The air space is left above the fluid to act as a cushion.

 

[Jf family]

We might as well drop posting more on this line of advice; it is obvious he doesn't believe some of us because the rims look good on the outside and others are telling him to just add air. We offered our advice, he can use it or not, his choice now.

Wow your sure pessimistic! I just want to learn and am getting differing pieces of information. sorry to offend you.

 

[Jf family]

I should have included that you could fill a tire to the recommended pressure with fluid by positioning the full point and venting all air out. The result would be a very hard ride as fluid does not compress (in an appreciable amount in such an application).

The air space is left above the fluid to act as a cushion.

Thank you will try that. Just not that familiar with fluid and how to work with it. One person said add air, another replied don't put air in the tube. Will figure out something.

 

[petertay]

My rear tire on Ford NAA with calcium chloride had a nice crack in the sidewall. No leaks, everything was fine. But since plowing snow was it main use, what if it was -10 degrees and I was half way down the 1/2 mile lane when it burst. I’d be stuck in the lane, the lane would be blocked, and not plowed open yet. NO THANKS. Our coop pumped out the fluid, cleaned up the rim, put on new tube and tire and pumped the fluid back it. I was happy to pay the cost rather than what I described above.

 

[Jim.ME]

Thank you will try that. Just not that familiar with fluid and how to work with it. One person said add air, another replied don't put air in the tube. Will figure out something.

I was replying to Rich'sToys comment on fully filling tires with fluid. I did not say for you to do that! DO Not! Proper level is just slightly above the top of the rim when the tire is vertical, as l posted previously. It needs the air cushion at the top.

 

[Jim.ME]

Wow your sure pessimistic! I just want to learn and am getting differing pieces of information. sorry to offend you.

I am not pessimistic, it is realistic from using and dealing with calcium ballast tires over the years. You say it is leaking fluid around the stem. That means the inside of the rim is "under attack", especially if it is calcium ballast. Adding air pushes more calcium out to react with air and the rim.

You haven't told if they are tube or tubeless yet or answered the feel of the liquid in your fingers as asked by another. Calcium will taste salty if you just touch a finger that has been touched the fluid to your tongue.

You said you are 80, I am only a few years behind you and been involved with mechanical work and tires for many years. My view point is from experience with such. Proper repair is the only correct repair for leaking ballast.