Old tire question.

[Brian G. NY]

Old tubes are way better quality than the new ones. I have seen new ones fail the day after being installed. The old ones are made of much better rubber.

I agree wholeheartedly!! My Dad put new Monkey Wards tires and tubes on the WD we rebuilt in 1959.
I have since put larger tires on it but I still have one rear tire that is mounted on the new wheel we installed back then and it's still holding air.
It seems to me that the Goodyear brand back then was the most durable. I have no idea who made tires for Wards.

 

[Brown Dirt Cowboy]

Doing a search, I see that the 1510 was built from 1983 to 1986, could it possibly have come with tubeless tires?

 

[Jf family]

Doing a search, I see that the 1510 was built from 1983 to 1986, could it possibly have come with tubeless tires?

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

 

[Jim.ME]

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

If the tire is mounted tubeless the stem will be tightly sealed to the rim with a metal washer and nut. If it has a tube the stem will likely have a round nylon nut (some used metal nuts) holding it loosely from slipping back inside the rime when deflated. These pictures may help you identify tube or tubeless. I am going to guess tubes.

 

[Russ from MN]

Back in about 1960 my father bought some tractor tire reliners, I believe at TSC in S St Paul MN. it was a continuous boot that went all the way around. I understood they were made from old airplane tires and lasted forever on the Farmall M.

 

[Jf family]

If the tire is mounted tubeless the stem will be tightly sealed to the rim with a metal washer and nut. If it has a tube the stem will likely have a round nylon nut (some used metal nuts) holding it loosely from slipping back inside the rime when deflated. These pictures may help you identify tube or tubeless. I am going to guess tubes.

View attachment 169038View attachment 169039

Thank you will check that out tomorrow.

 

[showcrop]

I have the original owners manual, does not say much about tires. That could be a possibility. Just
trying to figure out how to get some more air in the rear tires. Fronts definitely do not have fluid.

You should not add air! it is ruining your rims.

 

[Jim.ME]

You should not add air! it is ruining your rims.

We might as well drop posting more on this line of advice; it is obvious he doesn't believe some of us because the rims look good on the outside and others are telling him to just add air. We offered our advice, he can use it or not, his choice now.

 

[Rich'sToys]

Are you saying that fluid alone will inflate a tire to the proper pressure? That doesn't make any sense.

 

[Jim.ME]

Are you saying that fluid alone will inflate a tire to the proper pressure? That doesn't make any sense.

No, I and showcrop are saying adding air to a leaking tube/tire with a calcium/water mix in it only speeds up the rusting process. The air pushes liquid out through the hole(s). Exposure to the liquid and air speeds rim rusting, which generally can be bad before anything shows on the outside beyond seeping around the tube valve stem at the hole in the rim.

Full ballast fill is generally considered as just a bit over the top of the rim on a tubeless tire when the tire is vertical. This level keeps the rim submerged and oxygen from the metal of the rim preventing rusting. The air in the space above the liquid provides the cushion and lets the tire flex. Any oxygen that is in the cushion at the top will allow some minimal rusting to occur initially however the oxygen is soon used up and rusting stops; until you add more air, with oxygen in it. The lower the liquid and more air added equals more rim rusting. The same level fill level and air cushion apply with a tube in the tire. And the same principal applies if the tube is leaking inside the tire, air in fluid out equals more rim rusting.

People blame calcium ballast for rusted rims. The true cause is not repairing any leaks as soon as noted either by visible fluid from around the tube stem or having to add air regularly to maintain inflation, aka improper maintenance. JMHO