Old wood stove..

Ol 54'

Member
Looking to set up an old wood stove I picked up for this coming winter.. Basically I need to tear it down and fabricate some hinges, door frame, a leg or 2 etc.etc. I plan to have 6" single black pipe going out the wall. My shop is 10 ft. high and I am wanting to know what would be the most efficient and safest way to run the pipe, meaning how far the stove would be from the painted drywall and the height of the pipe running parallel from the ceiling. Where would I place the damper etc. etc. How far should the pipe be from the outside facia and how high above the roof line? I already have some of the pipe and the wall insulater, outside pipe support bracket.
 
Is this in your house or a shop? (Edit: missed the words “my shop”) For starters, full disclosure. Just so you know, if your insurance company does not know about your wood stove and there is a fire in the structure that they can point to the stove as “possibly” being the cause none of your losses will be covered. For it to be insured if your company will even consider it, the unit will likely need to be an unmodified UL listed unit. The vent pipe will need to meet local code which is usually triple wall insulated stainless lined pipe. It will need to have the final installation inspected by the local building inspector.
Is the building a common wood stud construction, because you say drywall? If so I would for safety and piece of mind recommend passing through the wall with a triple wall stainless section regardless if you are trying to meet code or not. Some amount of vertical insulated venting outside is ideal to help maintain a consistent draw. Bare single wall pipe should probably be away from flammable material 14” - 16” probably 20” if it is running horizontal under a ceiling.
 
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Looking to set up an old wood stove I picked up for this coming winter.. Basically I need to tear it down and fabricate some hinges, door frame, a leg or 2 etc.etc. I plan to have 6" single black pipe going out the wall. My shop is 10 ft. high and I am wanting to know what would be the most efficient and safest way to run the pipe, meaning how far the stove would be from the painted drywall and the height of the pipe running parallel from the ceiling. Where would I place the damper etc. etc. How far should the pipe be from the outside facia and how high above the roof line? I already have some of the pipe and the wall insulater, outside pipe support bracket.
I believe that "home made stoves" might also be under careful scrutiny from insurers. The reasons are obvious, they have an investment in heating your shop with wood.
 
Thanks for all the info..
here's an attempt to answer the question that you actually asked. Would need to know the basic dimensions of shop; if it is big enough there is no need to put it against the wall at all.

I have two doorways that are about six feet apart, leaving a strip this wide the length of the shop. The stove is right in the center of this strip between the doors. My wood burner is a piece of casing, 36" in diameter, stood up on end about 7 feet high. There is an additional 3 feet of riser of 8" gas line. From there it exits the building horizontally across one of the bays, where it doubles as a trolley track for a chain fall. It is constructed so that the horizontal pipe can be lifted off with a small skid steer for cleaning if necessary.

This setup uses 90% of the heat generated in the stove to heat the building, not go up the chimney (the percentage is a guess, admittedly, but when the casing is glowing, a hand can be laid on the pipe where it goes through the wall, so not very much heat is leaving the building).

I have no damper on mine ; if it gets too hot I just cut the air going into the stove.

About how to run the pipe; my philosophy is have as much exhaust pipe INSIDE the building as practicable. Why let out all the valuable heat?

And no, insurance company does not know about it. I made an eye on top of the stove so I can hook it with some machine and get it out of there before the adjuster sees it, in case of a serious fire.
 
From there it exits the building horizontally across one of the bays, where it doubles as a trolley track for a chain fall.
??
And no, insurance company does not know about it. I made an eye on top of the stove so I can hook it with some machine and get it out of there before the adjuster sees it, in case of a serious fire.
:oops: Yep, sounds like all traces of evidence will be gone. :ROFLMAO: I realize for the most part if you use your brain you will not have a fire caused by your wood stove. However, when you get in your vehicle you don’t generally plan on having an accident that totals it out… but…
 
??

:oops: Yep, sounds like all traces of evidence will be gone. :ROFLMAO: I realize for the most part if you use your brain you will not have a fire caused by your wood stove. However, when you get in your vehicle you don’t generally plan on having an accident that totals it out… but…
What evidence do you think will be left?
 
I agree with every one else on checking with your insurance company. As a general rule, if a wood stove doesn't have an "UL Approved" sticker on it, most insurance companies won't have any part of it.

When I was doing the insurance inspections, it was unbelievable the stuff people cobbled together for a wood stove and then wondered why their insurance company bowed out. Insurance companies hate, in no particular order, dogs, wood stoves, trampolines, hot tubs, and swimming pools.
 
They will be able to tell that part of your “trolley” was a flue pipe. And it is probably mounted pretty substantially to support loads. I don’t really care, it’s your deal, your pocket book.
Good point. Insurance companies avoid hiring dummies to do their investigations. Makes sense to me, insurance fraud is rampant. They don't mind if their clients are though :LOL: ..... most of us think we can plan the perfect crime until some Columbo-type investigator shows up and messes things up for us. Odds say that a fire isn't going to happen of course and all will be OK .... but if it does :cry::cry:
 
Fire investigators are not idiots and they have to study a long established curriculum that is being constantly updated.
Not as a rule... but if the fire didn't start with the wood burner the investigation will stop and the cause declared as soon as they see it. Fire investigators are supposed to be on the side of the insurance company. It would be an easy way out for them.
 
I had to take the wood furnace out of my shop. Insurance company said no solid fuel heaters where there is any chance of flammable vapors. They wouldn’t even allow it in a separate fire walled room with no acccess between the two parts of the building.
I replaced it with a waste oil heater, which has been a great improvement. Just walk in and push a button.
 
I had to take the wood furnace out of my shop. Insurance company said no solid fuel heaters where there is any chance of flammable vapors. They wouldn’t even allow it in a separate fire walled room with no acccess between the two parts of the building.
I replaced it with a waste oil heater, which has been a great improvement. Just walk in and push a button.
I put a pellet stove in my shop. I contacted my insurance company and asked about coverage first. As long as it was installed and inspected as per the national fire code all is good. I pulled a permit and had it inspected and was good to go. One of the conditions of having an open flame in garage or area where there might be flammable vapors is the fire box/source must be 18" off the ground.

OTJ
 
I agree with every one else on checking with your insurance company. As a general rule, if a wood stove doesn't have an "UL Approved" sticker on it, most insurance companies won't have any part of it.

When I was doing the insurance inspections, it was unbelievable the stuff people cobbled together for a wood stove and then wondered why their insurance company bowed out. Insurance companies hate, in no particular order, dogs, wood stoves, trampolines, hot tubs, and swimming pools.
No sticker on mine as I built it myself & I have fire insurance on the house and shop.
 
No sticker on mine as I built it myself & I have fire insurance on the house and shop.
Having insurance is one thing, but having your insurance company be aware of it is another. Does yours know? Did they look it over and approve it? If so, I've never heard of that happening. My daughter works for an insurance company and she says it is never even considered unless it has a UL (or whatever it is) rating.
 
No sticker on mine as I built it myself & I have fire insurance on the house and shop.
It is absolutely a “case by case” item for insurance to cover such a thing. Did you ever ask what the “wood stove” rider is costing you per year; there very likely is one, but again there are exceptions. Most comments above apply “in general” or as a majority. More Ins. companies and local inspection authorities will require the UL certification on a solid fuel heating appliance than those that do not.
 
Looking to set up an old wood stove I picked up for this coming winter.. Basically I need to tear it down and fabricate some hinges, door frame, a leg or 2 etc.etc. I plan to have 6" single black pipe going out the wall. My shop is 10 ft. high and I am wanting to know what would be the most efficient and safest way to run the pipe, meaning how far the stove would be from the painted drywall and the height of the pipe running parallel from the ceiling. Where would I place the damper etc. etc. How far should the pipe be from the outside facia and how high above the roof line? I already have some of the pipe and the wall insulater, outside pipe support bracket.
OL54, you got a dozen answers to questions not asked and no answer for questions asked. Probably expected different? :(
 

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