Oliver 1850- no steering or hydraulics

cropguy94

New User
I have and Oliver 1850 that has no power steering, hydraulics, or 3-point action (3-point is in the UP position). My train of thought goes to a shot hydraulic pump, and will require removal of the hydraulic housing under the seat. Is there something else I should check out before diving into this?
Also- if one of you has had the experience of removing the housing and doing hydraulic work, I would greatly appreciate a quick walk-through! I've never done it, and would hate to take the bolts out, start jacking it up and hear a snap of some hidden part breaking.

Thanks in advance, guys!!
 
I seconded the check out PTO shaft. Way less work plus you have to pull PTO shaft to remove hyd and pump.Make sure to check splines on the end that goes into flywheel.
 
If it is, it'll be making a screaming sound that'll make you think the world is coming to an end.
 
Is there any grinding noise that would indicate that the splines let loose? If not, do you have any hint of steering or anything else at high RPMs? The pump split on my 1850 while I was cutting hay one time. I raised the haybine on the end and when I turned around, it wouldn't lower. No steering or anything else below half throttle. Oil was just blowing right out of the crack. I've had those splines give out on the PTO shaft on my 1850 and 1550 both and believe me, when that goes, you'll hear a screeching, grinding noise like you never heard before.

If you do have to take the top off the rear end, take off the floor boards and take out all the 3/8 bolts around it. There are two long bolts too, one on either side of the hydraulic filter. Be sure to take those out. Now, the pan has two dowels. One goes up in to the top cover, the other one goes down in to the rear end housing. When you start to lift the cover and get the gaskets broke loose, one end of the pan will want to lift with the cover, the other end will want to stay down. You'll have to get one of those dowels to either come up or stay down. If you can, get the pan to stay down. It's an oily mess on the floor of you lift it off with the cover.

Before you take the 3pt cylinder out, take a picture of the linkage so you can get it back in right. The first one I took apart, I had to take the small cover off another tractor and look at that one to get it right. You don't have to have the PTO out to get the top cover off. If you get that far and have more questions, ask.
 
One other thing, if you pull that PTO shaft and that is the problem, take a mic and check to see if the splines are worn to a taper at the end. The front motor mount on those start to wear out and the front of the engine drops over time so the PTO isn't lined up straight in the hub. That causes them to wear prematurely. If it's worn that way, you'll have to put shims under the mount to straighten things out.
 
I've had it off my 1550 a couple of times. Randy's instructions are good. I'll add that once you get it broke loose and up a quarter inch or so check where the gaskets and pan are separating. Mine had two 3/4 dowels, on on either side in the middle and two stepped dowels, 3/4 to 1/2 diagonally at the front and rear corners. The shoulder was under the pan and wanted to pull it up with the housing. Get the pan from sticking to the housing so it will stay down. Put some blocks under the housing and let it set overnight for all the fluid to drip down. Quite a bit will be in the pan after you drain it.
 

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