Oliver cables get hot

[Jim.ME]

It seemed like it ran fine when I had it running. Now I’m just having an electrical issue which I can’t make heads or tails of since there’s only 3 wires.

Did you actually have it running on diesel? I see you said you had it running on starting fluid, that only tells you it will run, if it gets fuel properly. I do not see where you have posted you actually had it running on diesel as it should. If the filters are old and the line is kinked as much as it looks that may be part of your problems.

 

[Stanley996]

It appears this starter has been modified to use an electric solenoid/relay to energize it. Your starter rebuilder should be able to check and fit one to it. Then you will need to wire it.

Where is a picture of the starter and switch that are on it currently so we can see to compare them for you?

I took that one off but I’m gonna be putting it on later. I’ll get a picture later today.

 

[Stanley996]

I took that one off but I’m gonna be putting it on later. I’ll get a picture later today.

Here’s the starter and a photo of the ground wire to the battery that I’m replacing.

 

[Jim.ME]

Here’s the starter and a photo of the ground wire to the battery that I’m replacing.

Cable clearly needs replacement. Get a longer cable and run it to a bolt on the main tractor chassis, not sheet metal.

The starter in this picture uses the kick switch to engage it. The other starter appears to need a relay solenoid to engage it. Is the tractor wired for that?

 

[Stanley996]

Cable clearly needs replacement. Get a longer cable and run it to a bolt on the main tractor chassis, not sheet metal.

The starter in this picture uses the kick switch to engage it. The other starter appears to need a relay solenoid to engage it. Is the tractor wired for that?

No. The one that I currently have on it was the original I bought the one with the switch rebuilt. I was gonna move the ground to a different spot but that’s where the ground was originally. Also should I keep it positive ground or swap negative to ground.

 

[rrlund]

Cable clearly needs replacement. Get a longer cable and run it to a bolt on the main tractor chassis, not sheet metal.

The starter in this picture uses the kick switch to engage it. The other starter appears to need a relay solenoid to engage it. Is the tractor wired for that?

Yep, like I said several days ago, grounding there only worked for a year or two after they left the factory. The cowl and frame mating rusted and corroded in a hurry. Add another 75 years to that and it's a wonder there's any connection there at all.

 

[used red MN]

No. The one that I currently have on it was the original I bought the one with the switch rebuilt.

No offense but you are quite good at handing out confusing information. You have to remember we are not there to see what you see. I take it you have the starter shown in reply 43 on it? The way I understand what you said, that is what you were going to do, but as I said we don’t know exactly where you’re at on your end. The last photo we see of an installed starter is the one that requires a solenoid you show in reply 35. What about the 3 wires in reply 38 no more info.

Also should I keep it positive ground or swap negative to ground.

To me this all depends on what you plan to use for a charging system. If changing to an alternator then yes change to negative ground. I would certainly focus on getting the tractor to where it starts and runs reliably and for certain has oil pressure before running it through a bunch of modifications. Not that a positive to negative ground swap over is a big deal but it certainly can redirect focus.

 

[scootergmc]

It seemed like it ran fine when I had it running. Now I’m just having an electrical issue which I can’t make heads or tails of since there’s only 3 wires.

You haven't had it running on anything other than starting fluid correct? Did I miss that somewhere? For a tractor that was sitting and engine stuck, you should be cleaning the entire fuel system, cleaning the tank, replacing all the filters, making sure the lines are clear (maybe you did all that) along with whatever folks are telling you here re: the starter, grounding it to the frame. We don't know how familiar you are with all this stuff, but it seems like you jumped in head first into that injection pump from your previous thread(s).

 

[Stanley996]

You haven't had it running on anything other than starting fluid correct? Did I miss that somewhere? For a tractor that was sitting and engine stuck, you should be cleaning the entire fuel system, cleaning the tank, replacing all the filters, making sure the lines are clear (maybe you did all that) along with whatever folks are telling you here re: the starter, grounding it to the frame. We don't know how familiar you are with all this stuff, but it seems like you jumped in head first into that injection pump from your previous thread(s).

When the I first got it. I freed up the motor and when I did that I also cleaned all the injector lines and put new lines and a new fuel pump on including all new filters too. I had the gas tank cleaned out as well and had the engine running on its own power 3 different times for about 20-30 seconds each I didn’t hear any engine noise before shutting it off. I tried again later and it cranked but slowed down at one part. I have a video but it’s too large to post here.

 

[scootergmc]

OK. You say the engine ran "on its own power." Does that mean the engine started and ran on diesel fuel for 20-30 seconds, without any assistance at any point from starting fluid?

 

[Stanley996]

OK. You say the engine ran "on its own power." Does that mean the engine started and ran on diesel fuel for 20-30 seconds, without any assistance at any point from starting fluid?

Yes. I did not use starting fluid to start it. I just turned it over and it started running. And I used the shut off switch to turn it off.

 

[scootergmc]

What I see!
That looks like a canister type filter to me so likely the internal element type filter is new. Maybe you know for sure what I am saying is not correct. Even though the fuel lines weren’t treated the best I don’t see kinks in any of the bends so that looks okay to me.
Edit: Scooter, looking at your previous posts I see you are an Oliver guy, my apologies about the fuel filter you are likely correct.

Nah I could be wrong, looking at it on my phone, can't tell. But the line at the top of the photo on the left is definitely kinked 90 degrees.

 

[used red MN]

But the line at the top of the photo on the left is definitely kinked 90 degrees.

You’re right, I’ll use your excuse… I view the forum on my phone as well.

 

[Stanley996]

Nah I could be wrong, looking at it on my phone, can't tell. But the line at the top of the photo on the left is definitely kinked 90 degrees.

It’s fine I checked it and it has great fuel flow.

 

[Stanley996]

Nah I could be wrong, looking at it on my phone, can't tell. But the line at the top of the photo on the left is definitely kinked 90 degrees.

The only thing I’m really worried about is the crankshaft pulley extends out slightly at a certain angle. I’m hoping that it’s cause it’s missing a bolt.

 

[used red MN]

The only thing I’m really worried about is the crankshaft pulley extends out slightly at a certain angle. I’m hoping that it’s cause it’s missing a bolt.

Your ointment has a heavy attraction for flies!

 

[scootergmc]

So to recap:

You started with an Oliver 77 diesel with a stuck engine that sat a long time. You unstuck it.

You now have an Oliver 77 diesel that has a clean fuel tank, a new transfer/lift pump and attached sediment bowl, two brand new fuel filters, verified cleaned lines, and finally an injection pump that is getting fuel to all six injectors? And you started it and had it running on diesel with no assistance from starting fluid? But you had to swap injection pumps and heads or back and forth? And now it won't run?

And to verify oil pressure, which right now can't be measured, you had to run it on starting fluid?

And from what I can gather there is nothing wrong with the original starter other than the cables to the starter got hot? Did the cables get hot after extended cranking of the engine?

And the crankshaft pulley is cockeyed?

 

[Stanley996]

So to recap:

You started with an Oliver 77 diesel with a stuck engine that sat a long time. You unstuck it.

You now have an Oliver 77 diesel that has a clean fuel tank, a new transfer/lift pump and attached sediment bowl, two brand new fuel filters, verified cleaned lines, and finally an injection pump that is getting fuel to all six injectors? And you started it and had it running on diesel with no assistance from starting fluid? But you had to swap injection pumps and heads or back and forth? And now it won't run?

And to verify oil pressure, which right now can't be measured, you had to run it on starting fluid?

And from what I can gather there is nothing wrong with the original starter other than the cables to the starter got hot? Did the cables get hot after extended cranking of the engine?

And the crankshaft pulley is cockeyed?

I had oil pressure when starting it normal but found out why it won’t start. The crank is in 2 and I believe the motor is unusable.

 

[rrlund]

I had oil pressure when starting it normal but found out why it won’t start. The crank is in 2 and I believe the motor is unusable.

Now we know why it was parked.

 

[Stanley996]

Yeah. A few others and and I all checked the crank before even starting to put it together. There was no signs of spun bearings or any cracks but it split right in the main area damaged one of the bolt holes