Oliver OC 46

[crowsnest2002]

Some photos of left side. Back together, and not taking apart unless I have to.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Some photos of right side plus rollers I took apart.

 

[Ericp351]

Looks good. At lest one om my tracks adjusts with a spanner wrench. Shame about the torch and the otherwise good sprocket teeth. Sometimes you weld a new tooth ring on a old center. Enjoy, great machines.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Looks good. At lest one om my tracks adjusts with a spanner wrench. Shame about the torch and the otherwise good sprocket teeth. Sometimes you weld a new tooth ring on a old center. Enjoy, great machines.

Yeah, I was debating on replacing the sprocket or not. Part of me wants to, but the other part doesn't want to shell out $400 for one. I've been trying to look for parts machines nearby, but not any close or parts are worse than what I already have. I might just use what I have, and get everything else to where im satisfied. Then slowly bigger purchases as I go. I should repack/reseal the hydraulic cylinders as well, but until its gushing an occasional drip isn't going to kill me. Thanks btw.

 

[Ericp351]

I,d weld in some flat bar, maybe 3/8 by 2 plus inches wide for strength. Kind of like a spoke between where holes were. I believe you could find a sprocket rejected due to worn teeth and then move your ring over someday. Good pins and bushings puts you a grand ahead. These pull well above their weight.

 

[crowsnest2002]

The last 2, I did something different that seemed to work out well with the rollers. After I tore everything apart and got all the black grease out, I reassembled the entire roller minus the seal on the zerk side. I then put the button zerk back in temporarily, and pumped the roller assembly full. This way I could see grease come around the bushing on the zerk side. Once it oozed, I took the zerk back off, and put the last seal on. Then reassembled to the frame and installed the zerk again. It was easier than waiting, and laying on the ground pumping half a tube of grease later after the whole assembly was back on the crawler. Plus im also learning to kind of test as I go, because tearing back apart sucks if something is clogged, broken, or severely worn. "Patience, and foresight"

 

[crowsnest2002]

Looks good. At lest one om my tracks adjusts with a spanner wrench. Shame about the torch and the otherwise good sprocket teeth. Sometimes you weld a new tooth ring on a old center. Enjoy, great machines.

Ericp, feel free to post pics on my thread. I dont mind. Honestly I feel like there isn't enough pictures and how to on these machines on the net because they are so old. Not to mention the manuals are not that great photo wise. Blurry images and what not.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Your call, regarding wire. That said- earth to starter is an excellent way. I think I put mine to a rear head bolt last head pull. Just go O or double O and send it. Ain't no rule you can't add a stubby 8 or 10 gauge to dash pannel, et cetera.

Got my ammeter. I have some 4 gauge that is long enough to go from alternator to dash. I ordered some terminal ends. Old paper recommends 6 gauge, but ive got 4 left over from another project, and its red.

 

[Ericp351]

Good progress. 2 un-solicited tips: YOUR Fight. First, I also use the orig Oliver Ammeter, but if converted to an alternator, it may peg. #2 sounds sissy, so you may ignore. These were not equipped with fuse links for the simple, but now expensive electrical systems. A length of #10 fuse Link adds piece-O-mind, especially if your wife, buddy, or kid gets a hold of it. Any auto parts store can supply as "state of art" about 1970. Cheaper by 10' roll if you also have lots of pre 1980 tractors and pre '71 cars. EDIT, disregard part since looks like you bought 60A range meter.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Good progress. 2 un-solicited tips: YOUR Fight. First, I also use the orig Oliver Ammeter, but if converted to an alternator, it may peg. #2 sounds sissy, so you may ignore. These were not equipped with fuse links for the simple, but now expensive electrical systems. A length of #10 fuse Link adds piece-O-mind, especially if your wife, buddy, or kid gets a hold of it. Any auto parts store can supply as "state of art" about 1970. Cheaper by 10' roll if you also have lots of pre 1980 tractors and pre '71 cars. EDIT, disregard part since looks like you bought 60A range meter.

Output on alternator was 63amp, single wire. Re-running 4 gauge from alternator to 60amp ammeter, then rerunning 4 gauge to switch i believe it was on. Per instruction paper it called for 6 gauge. I figured 4 should be fine and handle any normal output. Should I install an inline fuse? Also I was thinking of wiring the light for ammeter on the input side of ammeter as an indicator, if the light is working alternator is working fine. Also it would be pulling a draw then.
Let me know what you think about this, or is the online fuse overkill for what ive got. If its not, what fuse size should I get for inline?

 

[crowsnest2002]

Inline fuse similar to this is what i was thinking?

 

[Ericp351]

That may be a-ok. I was referring to a simple fuse link. Popular with usa cars , 1970 until "modern " Maxi-fuses, sometime in mid or late 1990s. As per your wire chooses, very good. You basically have a 1975 Cadilliac alt. GM would have used (probably) 2, 10 ga. circuits: 1 for charging, 1 for car loads. Each protected by a fuse link. Your wires, and alt are more than fine. You may consider a 100 amp (ish) fuse, based on the alt 63 amps, and heavy wires. I'd just tuck in a $6 fuse link, as cars had, and call it discreet and done. I mentioned earlier that a "while you are at it" idea I like is a redundant dash or chassis ground. Again- just one retired engineers opinion , and not required- just cheap and simple! As to gauge light- if power to gauge is switched or diode protected, I'd drop the baby hot wire to the gauge nut- about 2 inches max.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. Skeletor says hi. I was able to go through a photo session of taking a roller apart, I'll try to break it up by post with a description.

 

[crowsnest2002]

First remove button head grease zerk. Then nuts holding roller assembly onto track frame. Figure out some way to pull roller assembly off bolts that are in track frame. Ive noticed these are severely stuck, and usually require pressure on my jack, pounding on the shaft supports, and putting a strong thin putty knife under and lightly pounding. Take care not to break the bolts in the track frame.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Once you remove roller assembly from track frame. Put it on a solid work table lol. Remove dust shield, and shaft support. Please see attached photos of assembly as well.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Now you have access to the seal. Take a screwdriver and pound into seal. Pry the seal out. Once the seal is out, you now have access to the snap ring. Take a screwdriver and wedge into the point and pry inward. Have another screwdriver and slide it under the ring as it prys up. Take screwdriver and circle around and pry the snap ring out.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Once you have done that to both sides, it is time to remove the shaft assembly. I would use a press if you have one, because pounding on the shafs do distort them slightly. I do not so I use a ball pean hammer as my punch with an engineers hammer. It works with minimal distortion the the shaft. *Do not pound on grease zero threaded side* Once the first retainer and shaft falls out, flip the roller over, and put shaft through other retainer and do it again for that side. *do not pound on grease zero threaded side*

 

[crowsnest2002]

Now clean up assembly, roller, etc. I have old towels that I use. Dig the grease turds out of roller assembly. They will be hard hence why I call them grease turds.

 

[crowsnest2002]

I like to purge out the shaft at this point as well. Put zerk back on and give the grease gun with corn head grease a pump or two. See photo of correct substitute for oil. John deere corn head grease.

 

[crowsnest2002]

Now reassemble. Take care to put retainers back in correctly. I use a galvanized pipe connector as a way to pound the assembly in to avoid pounding on the shaft as much as possible. I also use the connector to push the snap ring back in while using the screwdriver to pry. I also use the connector to evenly push the new seal back in.