one arm loader w/ snow plow??

NWMO 901 SOS

Well-known Member
Good evening all,

I got about 3 hrs on the 971 today and it was beautiful here in NW Missouri. Cleaned out the pumpkin patch, knocked down a dirt/gravel pile with my one-arm loader and brush hogged a couple of acres. Where the cattle had been running, I was able to brush hog in 5th gear, covered ground pretty quick.

I put the one arm loader back on yesterday and it went on pretty easy. It was hanging from the barn rafters on a barb wire fence stretcher. That combined with a bottle jack made it quite easy to get back on. I did have to remove my weight box first though.

I would like opinions on two things:

1) I am hoping to put together a bare bones shop so my boys and I can rebuild/repair older cars for them before they turn 16. I would like to have enough compressor to allow us to do some body work as well. I believe shooting paint doesn't take a lot, it's the orbital sander, etc. that ups the compressor requirements. [color=red:952f5dde43]What size should I consider and what has been your experience with used equipment?[/color:952f5dde43] Obviously with CL or fleabay, you take a chance, but there are some good deals every so often.

2) Does anybody have pictures of a snow plow mounted on a one arm loader. I am picturing a larger V plow for pushing snow. It has surely been done and [color=red:952f5dde43]I would like comments or recommendations.[/color:952f5dde43]

TIA and Have a Great Sunday

Chris
 
They actually had a dozer blade attachment you could buy for it. Just bought a copy of a manual on ebay. Well a photo copy.Guy made some easy money there. As for compresser I'm getting ready to buy one myself 60 gallon Ingersol- rand 18 cfm at 90 pounds. Thats what you look for cfm. The more the better. They got em at TSC.
 
Dave's right - the more CFM the better. Also, make sure it's a brand that's still around - you may need parts at some point. I'd look for cast-iron cylinders, too. The light alloys won't last as long. When we built our milking parlor, they stressed getting a 2-stage compressor, for the higher pressure and resulting drier air (pneumatic cylinders don't like moisture!). We bought a C-Aire, made in Wyoming, MN. 80 gallons @ 150 psi is overkill for our use, but it has been trouble-free for over 13 years now.
 
Pick which air tools you want. Check to see how much air the require to opperate. Then select your compressor accordingly. If you don't select a compressor thats big enough you will spend a lot of time waiting for the compressor to catch up. You are right about spray guns not using much. The worst I've seen required a Max of 45 psi and took 3 CFM.

Rick
 
You could probably make a V plow like the one I have to fit that loader. I know years ago I built this one and it has done its job now for more then a decade
a23920.jpg
 
Thanks for the great comments guys:

I've continued to think about the plow and really like the looks of Old's V-plow. However, I should likely concentrate on power steering repair before I worry about a front snowplow, as I can't imagine it would be much fun to steer. I may just get some duo-grip tire chains and hope that chains combined with the three point sway bars, make things a little easier.

I also have a propensity to catch things with that front bucket, let alone a plow on the front. I might do more damage than it is worth.

Chris
 
Yep power steering is needed to use that big V plow. Plus I have my tires full of fluid and all this weight on the back blade. 6 85lbs suit case weights and a 150 wheel weight on the center link hook up area
a23922.jpg
 
The higher quality the air tool, the less air(lower CFM) they will eat. But you will pay more for the lower CFM use of tool also. Check the CFM required for each tool you intend to purchase, then buy compressor to fill your needs. Most compressors are rated at X CFM at 90 psi, so ya need to take that into consideration also.HTH

Keith & Shawn(Gold Medal Winner)
 
for drills, die grinders and sanders.. I go electric. usually just as cheap or cheaper.. and saves air.

my shop has a 4hp 30g upright single stage. Plenty of air for painting or air blow gun.

look at a 1-arm loader parts manuall, there was a front blade attachment.. that while it might be like hens teeth to find.. probably easy to fabricate something similar.

soundguy
 
On the air compressor, like someone else said, figure out which tools you want, then get a compressor to run. I probably spent enough on a cobbled up old compressor to buy a good one, but you live and learn. I sort of inherited a compressor with a single cylinder pump on an old 100 lb lp tank. Motor was probably best part of it. I found out quickly that it did not have enough cfm output to run much of anything including a Craftsman cheapy gun. Put a two cylinder pump on it and improved it dramatically, but still never kept up like it should. When I sold my home they guy who bought it made me an offer of $100 to leave it and I jumped at the chance, and bought a Campbell Hausfeld 60 gallon upright for $400 or so. Works great. Be careful as most of the homeowner compressors now are they type with one piece motor/compressor units and are throw aways in my opinion. Get a good cast iron pump, and separate motor that is serviceable. Oh, and I recommend changing the oil in the pump at recommended intervals (or at least the first time).
 
I'd be careful with a plow on the loader. I drop the one-arm for the season and mount a subframe/plow setup. The plow takes a beating, even with the trip blade. My loader just doesn't seem like a strong enough platform for plow duty.

If you do go this route, you may want to add the reinforcement between the "heal" of the loader and the rear axle. Ultradog has the only one I have seen aside from the manual. This should take some of the stress off of the hip bracket.

-John
 
I followed this thread but just never did reply to it.
I might consider a plow on a 2 arm loader but even then not for very long.
I wouldn't do it on a Bandit. I have the carcass of a bandit here that has had the main upright pipe rewelded to the foot. My guess is the loader is not designed to take the continual shock loads that a plow would put on it without damage. They are more designed to lift stuff than push with.
And I wouldn't want a plow on a loader frame no how anyway. By the time you get the blade mounted on a loader frame it is so far out front of the tires to make them slip and skid sideways as to defeat your purpose.
Plow blade needs to be close.
Now a V plow on a narrow front tractor might be a real good combination as the tractor could wear it closer than a WF. But probably your best bet for the money would be to find a 7' or 8' backblade. That's what I've been using the last two years and other than the crick im my neck from looking backwards all the time it has done a good job.
 
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