OT Air compressor done

Another pice of antique iron saved not a tractor but good to have around when wrenching on them.
This thing was a mess when I got it the PO has probably never cleaned or replaced the air filter it was so clogged up it actually was compressed like someone stood on top of it.
I stripped all of the old paint and grease of of it primed and repainted, used high heat rattle can paint for the motor and compressor.
Threw out all of the miss matched hardware and replaced it.
Found I am getting to old to crawl around in a hot attic to pull in a new #10 gauge, 30 amp 240 volt circuit.
Before I put this beast in place I put some of that White fiber glass pebble board on the wall behind the compressor and parts washer.
Added a 30 amp ratted double pole single throw switch and 1/2" liquid tite for the electrical.
Amped this this compressor at start up it draws around 11 amps but climbs up to about 24 amps per phase after 145 psi.
I am very happy with my yard sale find.
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Keep UP the good work.

Most of us spent a lotta time, money, and of course HOURS going to work, practicing our SKILLS (sorta like a musician) to enjoy the "better" time of life, LATER.

The young "Musician" that i met yesterday, LOST, because of his dead battery in HIS navigation equipment, will be wanting to have his last years spend onboard the USS ROBERT LEE as the "ships" TRUBITOR.

Our hours spent, now, are the BEST TIMES of our lives. ENJOY.

John,PA

PS: I spent about an hour with the young "MUSICIAN" from Florida. We plotted out a simple CROSS-COUNTRY course to SCRANTON, PA. His first job-site up NORTH! I even threw-in a PA ROAD MAP. We just got done with the Hurricane up here.
 
Next time try running conduit and thhn #10. Stay in the air conditioned area. Should be the last job for uncomfortable working conditions.

John,PA
 
Can't be too complicated John:
75 to 81 to Scranton or
95 to 26 to 77 to 81 to Scranton
from anywhere in Florida.

Done both many times - daughter in Scranton, sister in law in Bradenton and sister in Pompano.
 

Looks good should work till you run across a starter for it and the correct disconnect :wink:... You know so tell me should it not be on a 50 amp breaker...
 
Thanks all for the compliments
Yes a NEMA size 1 starter would be nice but I gave them all away to the local trade schools and adult apprentiship programs, when the company I work for quit participating in the Skills USA Electrical Apprentice competitions I was a judge for severals years.
The 30 amp rated double pole switch will work just fine with the air pressure backed down below 145 PSI I am only drawing 22 amps per phase 80% of 30 amps is 24 amps for a non continuous duty motor this set up will work fine
And the pressure switch will give up the ghost before the switch anyway
Either way I can replace both switches cheaper than a motor starter switch.
 
Bill you will have to educate me what is a hydro test?
I did pull the bottom 3/4" plug and the top 2" plug and shot the pressure washer inside to rinse out all of the crud it was just muddy brown did not see any rust flakes comming out.
The original settings. The pressure switch was set to cut off at 165 PSI
Tank lost. 25 PSI sitting over night not bad for a old 80 gallon tank.
Please tell me more on this hydro test.
 
Plane Bart- a hydrostatic test is a test for structural integrity using water at ambient temperature. The test pressure is usually 1.5 x design pressure of the vessel. The pressure vessel or piping system is totally filled with water. On a small system a, small high pressure hand pump and hose is then connected to the pressure vessel and the pressure gradually bumped to the test pressure and held for a specified time - usually 10 minutes minimum.
If the vessel fails during the test, there is usually only a small "burp" as it requires very little water to raise the pressure of a full vessel.

A pneumatic test is similar but used a compressed gas at 1.2 x design pressure. It is much more risky due to the stored energy of the compressed gas releasing during a vessel failure. It's generally limited to gas pipelines.
 
First hour in our COURSE.

MAP, screwdriver for maintenance of Personal guitar, flutes, clarinet, etc. Keep switchblades for mak'N camp fires, etc.

Teach INDIAN WRESTLING to Karate instructor.

Time to "spull-up" your engine, and GET ON WITH IT!

John,PA

Susquehannock. MANITOWOC SCREWDRIVER for personal PROTECTION.
 
(quoted from post at 03:45:17 09/03/12) Bill you will have to educate me what is a hydro test?
I did pull the bottom 3/4" plug and the top 2" plug and shot the pressure washer inside to rinse out all of the crud it was just muddy brown did not see any rust flakes comming out.
The original settings. The pressure switch was set to cut off at 165 PSI
Tank lost. 25 PSI sitting over night not bad for a old 80 gallon tank.
Please tell me more on this hydro test.

Were did you lose the 25psi :?: Were is the check valve between the pump and tank :?: Once the compressor shuts off how does it un-load the compressor head pressure :?:
 
I have a pressure relief valve 200 PSI rating it is mounted
behind the air pressure gauge, butt I am sure this is not what
you are talking about.
I have not noticed any other type of "Check Valve" on the
compressor where would it be located?
I would have to say there is not one and if there is it is not
working reason being that when the air compressor pumps up
to the 145 PSI I have it set to cut off at I noticed that the air
pump wheel will spin backwards two or three times about two
inches at at time.
Is this a small valve that I could have clogged up when I
painted it?
 
(quoted from post at 16:03:46 09/03/12) I have a pressure relief valve 200 PSI rating it is mounted
behind the air pressure gauge, butt I am sure this is not what
you are talking about.
I have not noticed any other type of "Check Valve" on the
compressor where would it be located?
I would have to say there is not one and if there is it is not
working reason being that when the air compressor pumps up
to the 145 PSI I have it set to cut off at I noticed that the air
pump wheel will spin backwards two or three times about two
inches at at time.
Is this a small valve that I could have clogged up when I
painted it?

It's called an unloader valve. They are often loacated on the pressure switch but not all compressors have one. When the compressor shuts off the unloader valve is tripped and realease any residual pressure in the compressor line to make starting easier. They emit an unmistakable hiss as the compressor shuts off.

TOH

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(quoted from post at 00:03:46 09/04/12) I have a pressure relief valve 200 PSI rating it is mounted
behind the air pressure gauge, butt I am sure this is not what
you are talking about.
I have not noticed any other type of "Check Valve" on the
compressor where would it be located?
I would have to say there is not one and if there is it is not
working reason being that when the air compressor pumps up
to the 145 PSI I have it set to cut off at I noticed that the air
pump wheel will spin backwards two or three times about two
inches at at time.
Is this a small valve that I could have clogged up when I
painted it?

I don't know the zack combination you have maybe this will help are check out Granger...

http://www.mastertoolrepair.com/pressure-switches-pressure-switch-unloader-valves-c-25_2_258.html

You DO NEED a check valve and some type of UN-loder...

I built a compressor using a 5HP electric engine and a Kellogg 27 CFM compressor 32 years ago and used this style check valve and its still get'er done in my BIL shop...



http://www.faucetdirect.com/watts-0...006953?source=ntg_2006953&baid=1519860876
 
Thanks Hobo and TOH
I ordered a new pressure switch with Unloader valve, check valve and a new valve safety
Thanks for catching that I did not have one I did not need a potential bomb in my shop.
Very much appreciated.
 
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