OT but may be helpful in rusty situations

8N-Bob

Member
I had a break line fail on my truck this weekend. It was from the junction box on my rear diff. to the pass. rear drum.

When I got home I sprayed the flare-nut fittings with PB Blaster and also both bleeder nipples on the slave cylinders on the rear breaks, in perpetration for bleeding. Let them sit over night and sprayed again.

When I was ready to work on the truck I sprayed them with CRC Freeze Off and pow the fittings came right loose and both bleeders were able to be opened with out any big trouble.

That 1, 2 punch did the trick.
I have used PB Blaster before but the CRC Freeze Off was new to me. A friend recommended it.

New brake line on, brakes bled, on the road again in a little over an hour of work, not including goign to the parts store for brake line.

Just thought I would share.

Be Cool
Bob
 
I call my truck old leaky.Only one short length of original tubing left on it.Usual problem here is the nut wont turn on the tubing.Road salt is bad here.You can get rusted lines in 50,000 miles.I find that you can keep new lines from rusting by wrapping them with vinyl tape.I put some grease on bleeder screws and and any nut connections.My 77 chevy was easy to put new tubing on but the 96 Ford is a nightmare.They run tubing where you cant see it.Still wonder why they permit tubing that rusts to be used on brake lines in the US.
 
I cools a rusted part down causing the rust to loosen and it also has penetrating oil in it. You spry it on and the rust cracks letting the oil get into those spots.

Hope this helps.
 
I cools a rusted part down causing the rust to loosen and it also has penetrating oil in it. You spry it on and the rust cracks letting the oil get into those spots.

Hope this helps.
 

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