OT...but need help

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
This is off topic, but I need help.
I have a RUDD central ac system at the house. Other half called me at work yesterday PM and told me the AC was not cooling...again.
I have called a guy 3 times on the 4 year old unit and it is always the same thing.
It is burning the black wire connector where it slides on the compressor terminal.
The terminal on the compressor is round not flat.
The wire lug just gets hot and burns.
I am told there is a repair kit for this thing with a locking or much tighter wire lug.
Anyone know where I can find one?
Heck, I can't find the round wire lugs anywhere. Is this one of those deals where you must be a certified AC mechanic to get parts?
Need help...other half is not in the best of health and these 95+ days are tough on her.
If I can't find a fix soon...I am going to have the unit replaced.
Darn compressor kicks in good once the wire is fixed.
 
Have you trie a web search for Rudd? There has to be a better fix than replacing the whole thing for one connector. On the other hand a new unit might save on power.
 
Could be Vibration is making it come lose and heat up --- if the manufacture don't stand behind there product -- then I would use a larger wire and silver solder it on the lug ---
what you think ??????
 
Yes, I did. Found nothing at all. Just the entire units and a few service kits...not even a complete wiring harness...which I would have bought.
The kits were just starting aids and such...no wiring or components.
 
Yeah...thougt about that...but it is awful tight in there...might be a last resort thing. I can't let other half get too over heated.
If it does it again soon...more than likely just rip it out and start all over with a new unit.
Thanks for the input.
 
I would try getting in there and soldering the connection up. Or just see if you can't get an electrician to come and do it for you if you don't feel confident about it. Sounds like a tight spot, but not a tough job. $200 for an electrician is better than $3,000 for a new unit especially when yours is 4 years old.
 
Thanks Vern...just sent them an e-mail. They have the compressor and it comes with a wiring harness. I ask them if I can buy a new harness from them as a repair part.
Thanks a million....
 
Many years ago at work for wiring electric motor connections, instead of using a regular wire nut we used one made of brass with a plastic cover that screwed over it. The brass piece had a hole through it where you installed the wires and then a side set screw to tighten them up. Maybe you could find something like that.
 
That unit should be under warranty. Send Rudd written notice that the unit has repeated failures due to this defect and that you would like them to provide some assistance to your technician.
Rudd warranty terms.
 
I think I could find an electrical connector that used a set screw to compress the connection. I would not use solder as it will only melt out under the heat. Another consideration is why is the compressor drawing so much current to heat the connection. Is there any chance that there is too much freon or whatever it uses that is liquid and making the compressor draw too much current? Or is the start or run capacitor (may not have a run) bad causing the motor to draw too much current. I would try an amp meter to check current draw. No sense in just trying the same old thing again because it will burn again.
 
Yeah...thought about that too.
I am starting to think it may be better to just rip it out and start all over.
There have been a rash of home fires around the area the past few years due to AC units in the attics and I am just not feeling comfortable with the whole system. I don't want to come home to a pile of ashes.
Got rid of a Ford Exploder for the same reason. They kept saying the cruise control switch was ok, but houses were burning because of the things setting in the garages.
Guess I am getting old.
Thanks everyone for your help.
 
What about using a small wire lug. The kind that has a tab with a hole in it on one end and a square block with a hole setscrew in the other if space is avalable.
 
I thought about that too John...it would have to be an awful small one though, plus, I was concerned about the vibaration and a screw or bolt coming loose where it connected to a like piece for the wire. Still giving that some thought.
 
I would call Rudd at 1-800-848-7883 and have them call your service tech to fix the problem. An AC only 4 years old shouldn't be causing problems. I have a Rudd central AC & a gas furnace. The AC has been in use 16 years. I did replace the low voltage contactor 10 years ago & the AC contractor
that installed it gave me the new contactor. The furnace is 12 years old. They had good rebates back then on high efficency 13 seer ac units and
90 plus furnaces. A good electrician should be able to make a connection so it doesn't become loose. Hal
 
Hello Billy 46.
There is a kit made for low voltage help it is a starting aid kit. I think I still have one in my tool box.
It gives a tight compressor or a low voltage input system a kick start, the it warms up and drops out of the system. If you like i can dig it up, and send you a picture of the unit.
It has been to long so I can't give you a
part #.

Guido.
 
Bill, could it could be short cycling, compressor comming back on before the pressure equalises,or due to short power interuptions, that will burn the comon tereminal off. There is a "brown out preventer" which wires in series with the low voltage side of the compressor contactor available. If the voltage drops more than 5%, or or any other reason it won't restart the compressor for 3 minutes, some are adjustable time settings. They did cost less than 20$ I used them a lot. Next time you see a coke service man tell him, maybe will have the heavy terminal end on his truck, it happens a lot to them. Hope this helps.
John
 
Anybody tinkering with the thermostat or are they leaving it alone?
Long duration high current/heat ocurs when somebody either starts or finds the compressor running. They move the temp control up and the compressor stops. Then they move the temp control down again until the compressor TRYS to start.
Now the compressor is dead headed against full pressure and spends several seconds at locked rotor current every minute or two for 3-8 minutes.This adds 10 to 15 times the amount of heat occuring in the wire/connection.
Instead of just starting current which lasts for 1/2 to 1 second.
Caution. If the tinkerer is asked they will both be puzzled why toying with the stat is a problem. And they will lie with a straight face about ever touching the stat.
 
Hello Go to a HVAC parts store and ask for a compressor terminal repair kit. About $8.00 The terminal will slide over the old one and tighten down with a set screw. DO Not!!! I Repeat DO Not apply heat to a compresor terminal because the terminal may blow out of the compressor blinding you with freon. You have a loose connection causing this. Get a technician to repair it if you don,t feel good about it. Don,t allow a parts changer to work on it. DH
 
That repair kit is what i have been looking for. I ask 2 places Saturday...and they just stared at me.
I have a friend that works for a repair service and he is trying to help me find a kit.
Thanks to all.
 
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