OT engine storage

[Anonymous-0]

I've got a chevy 350 that I plan to store. I got an engine cradle from Summit to put it on. Should I pull the plugs and put a little oil in the cylinders? I know my friend had one on a stand and he would put a ratchet on the crank and roll it over so the valve springs wouldn't be compressed for too long. It has a big 4 bbl. carb. Is there anything else I should do? Thanks Bob

 

[Butch(OH)]

Depends on the storage conditions. Dry and temp controlled I would do nothing but cover the openings. For your normal shop or garage it gets tougher. A "little" oil in the cylinders will dribble to the low side and do nothing for 90% of the cylinder wall. Barring it over now and then works as long as a person remembers to do it. There is a product sold mostly for marine engines called fogging oil that will lube the entire cylinder and you then just cover it and leave it alone. As for the valves springs, if it makes you feel better turn it or loossen the compressed ones, otherwise loose no sleep over them being compressed. If they sag from sitting they were junk to begin with.

 

[Leroy]

Turning an engine over would not be for the valve springs but the valves themselves to keep them from sticking. Used to have a AC combine with the B engine and had to do that at least every month or the valves would stick and then bend the push rods when try to crank it. That fogging oil the other poster mentioned would have been good for that but did not have anything like that back in those years.

 

[Dauber]

Fogging oil for marine engines (Storage Seal Mercury Brand) is meant to be used when the engine is running. Directions are on the can. Shut off fuel supply and slowly spray oil into the carb while the engine is running and just before it stalls from lack of fuel spray the remainder of the can down the carb. This will coat the carb, intake path, and the cylinders. It is also a good idea to run fuel stabilizer (Quickstore Mercury Brand) during this process to ensure the fuel paths are treated. Store the engine with fresh oil and run the engine once after the fresh has been installed to ensure that the oil is in between the crank and the bearing. Old oil can have an acid quality and over time can pit the bearings. If it is too late for this I would put a abundant amount oil in each spark plug hole and bar the engine over repeatedly with plugs out. When completed replace spark plugs to keep out critters. If it is long term storage back off the rocker arms, remove push rods, label them so they can be put back in their proper location. Before putting the engine back into service tap the back of each valve stem once with a brass hammer to ensure that the valve is not stock.

 

[1970-1655]

I have an engine, now looking for the right body to put it in. I made a stand with wiring and battery so I can start it up about once a month, or whenever the neighbor annoys me. When not running, I plug the ends of the headers and keep the air filter on. Good for every day stress relief also. My engine is a 427 Ford at close to 570 horse power. Picture is before I got the headers and air cleaner on it.

 

[1970-1655]

Had trouble uploading photo first time.

 

[Butch(OH)]

Oooooo! what that engine and a repro AC Cobra kit would do for me!

 

[S.Crum]

An old Chevy mechanic told me that for a rebuilt engine, Always test run the engine to temperature before it is stored. This will "season" the internals or bake oil into everything. I found out why a few years ago with a rebuilt Chevy 305 engine I rebuilt for a project that didn't happen. I coated everything inside it heavily with STP when I reassembled it but never test ran it. The engine sat on a stand in the room next to the furnace room in the shop for about 5 years covered and warm, and I rolled the engine over every few months. A neighbor needed the engine so I sold it to him. He put it in a truck and it smoked right from day one. I did a compression test on it and found cylinder 3 way low. We pulled the engine and tore it down, several of the cylinders were rusty at the bottoms and #3 had evidence of the piston having been stuck, the ring lands were broken and the oil ring folded up along the cylinder. Needless to say, I bought the engine back...

 

[1970-1655]

Looking for a decent 1966 Fairlane body. A 67 would do in a pinch if it was really good condition, price or close to home. Friends got a 66 factory 427 car new and I chased after them a lot. Now I am trying to build a tribute car, not exactly a "clone." I see that word over used.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Thanks for the info everybody. I like that engine stand for running. That would be excellent. We got a cradle from Summit but it is cheap made probably china. I wouldn't trust it. Would it work to take the distributor out and spin the oil pump to circulate oil. We ran the engine and changed the oil right before we took it out so is all fresh. I also saw a product from WD-40 that is made for storing stuff. It is supposed to cling to parts for 2 years without coming off. What do you think about using this and some oil in the cylinders also?
Thanks Bob