OT: home electrical corrections

[Anonymous-0]

Guys, my eyes are failing me...

It is a 15 amp breaker, with 10 "AIR" written in WHITE ink on the body...the 15 amp is on the handle molded in black plastic...
Why is the 10 AIR emphasized when the 15 amps isnt?
Regardless, it is 15 AMP and the wiring is 12/2....
STILL< all those circuits go to this one breaker...

I am thinkning that the breaker is weak?

But, I will tell you that the "little" heater is 18 AMPS! Larger than I though...
Think I will get a propane Mr. Heater.... probably more heat for less cost anyway....

Thanks!
Mark

 

[IaGary]

You can change to a 20 amp breaker if it is 12 gauge.

But I would still want to split up that circuit if I could.

Gary

 

[John T]

Mark, You may wanna check them eyes again,,, Sure those letters on the breaker arent AIC ???

OKAY ITS BEEN YEARS SINCE I WORKED WITH THIS STUFF BUT HERES MY FOGGYYYYYYYY RECOLLECTION

If so??? it refers to the breaker maximum amps interrupting capacity of which 10,000 might be the case. Its a rating of the maximum ampacity that the breaker is capable of withstanding and has to do with the short circuit current capacity the utility might be able to deliver based on their distribution system and its impedance and how far you are from the substation. The last time we figured it at our facility it was less then 10,000 and the farther from the sub the less available, so the minimum 10,000 AIC breakers were all we had to specify.

NEXT if the branch circuit wiring is allllllll 12 gauge as you claim, then you could install a 20 amp breaker in place of that 15 which would allow more current to pass without tripping out

HOWEVER on a branch circuit the code only allows you to have a maximum of 80% of continuous load current which means you could only legally pull 16 amps from that branch circuit IF THE LOAD IS CONTINUOUS THAT IS. I dont need to get into the definition of continuous loads and diversity etc here cuz all that matters for now is you cant have like that heater n microwave or any humidifer on there cuz only one of those is too close to that 16 amps and 2 sure puts you over the line.

Im NOT convinced the breaker is all that weak, sounds more like its working n doin its job cuz anywhere close to 15 amps from it on a constant basis can cause its thermal element to trip out. True however if its tripped n been reset manyyyyyy times it can no longer function as accurate n start nuisance tripping where a new breaker might not

Keep us posted, keep safe

It shouldnt cost much if anything just to have a licensed electrician take a look n give you an opinion n and estimate, believe him over any advice here regardless if its a lay opinion or a professional cuz we are NOT there n cant really say much for sure......

John T Too long retired EE n code rusty but givin ya my best shot

 

[suptscottyb]

John T, What about a piggy back double 20 amp for this slot?

 

[John T]

I think you have a good point, In many panelboards (mine included) you can get the skinny breakers where two fit in the slot that a single wide one used to occupy, and I DO NOT mean a 2 pole breaker, two 20 Amp single pole individual breakers that are skinnyyyyyyyyy (been on a diet I reckon lol). He still needs to run another branch circuit so your idea becomes relevant in the situation where his panel may be full up I guess???


I love sparky chat

John T

 

[KEB1]

I don't know if its by standard or by convention, but every breaker I've ever seen has the rating molded into the tip of the handle. Sometimes its highlighted in a contrasting color, some times its not.

I'm assuming that since you looked at the wiring size, there's only one wire connecting to that breaker? If so, you really need to do some re-wiring, or you'll continue to periodically pop that breaker even if you go to a 20 amp one. A kitchen appliance or two plus a power tool in the garage can easily exceed 20 amps.

One other thing to make sure before you go to a 20 amp breaker is that ALL the wiring connected to that circuit is in fact #12, and that someone didn't run part of the circuit with #14. With the power off, you can pull individual outlets out far enough to see what size wire is running to them.

Keith

 

[Anonymous-0]

As an example, a Square-D version of the breaker than John is talking about is a QOT2020 or QOT1515. I have a couple of these in my panel. It's important to note that they only go in CERTAIN places in the panel, usually at the bottom. I think there's an older style that will go anywhere, but you'll pay dearly for those, like $75 vs. $15.

 

[John T]

Thanks Matt, although the SD catalog was like the designers BIBLE I never got good at using it, just so confusing n allllllll those options n asterisks drove me bonkers lol I dont really see that as his problem, like I said above this would only help if his panel was plum full (no room for another breaker for an added branch circuit) but he has more serious problems it looks like.

Take care now

JT

 

[Red Dave]

It is very possible that the breaker is "weak". It is not uncommon for that to happen when a breaker is cycled many times.

If you get a propane heater, keep in mind that it will consume oxygen and put out carbon monoxide. In a closed space, you are competing for that same oxygen.

I still strongly urge you to have a qualified, competant electrician check out your wiring and break those circuits up across multiple breakers. I don't think that you should try it yourself.