OT**Lawn Mower Electronic Ignition Conversion**

RoySC

Member
I have an older lawn mower with points / condensor ignition. I'm not getting any spark so I suspect the ignition system. Instead of replacing the existing points/ condensor I'm considering a low cost electronic replacement. I'm sure this crowd has folks who have done this so.....any comments are welcome and are the coversion kits available from my local small engine parts shop...expected price? etc. The engine is a 3 hp B&S engine. Thanks in advance for your comments.
 
Done that more then once over the years. Last one I did cost me around $5 but that was from Wal-Mart which last I looked did not have them any more. But as said if the coil is bad it will not help but if the coil is good it sure beats having to mess with the points
 
Have done the conversion on several small Briggs engines, it ends ignition problems in engines exposed to moisture or corrosive fumes. Never a no spark situation from wet or corroded points.
In the 80's you could buy just the electronic module to glue to your existing coil. That was cheaper than the combined coil and module sold today, but the new unit is better weather sealed.
The electronic conversion also eliminates incorrect timing caused by wear on the point cam.
 

B&S sells they're own last I knew they cost around $10.00,there are other aftermarket companies that make them for a couple dollars less.As was previously mentioned,if the coil is bad the electronic module won't solve the problem,they only take the place of the points and condensor,usually a no spark situation is caused by the points and condensor,though.
 
Clean the points before spending money.The fiber plunger that opens the points wears and let oil onto the points.Replace the plunger and watch how the old one comes out.The is an up side to the plunger so it wont pump oil.A friend had to use an ss ignition because the cam could not open the points enough even with a new plunger.I always clean points new out of the box.A cloudy film forms on the point surfaces.A mower that has been sitting for 6 monts will have dirty points.
 
Find a parts machine, the coils will interchange or just the electronic module I've converted several.fast and easy job.
 
I would put the whole coil assembly with the solid state igniton already built into it. that was if it is the coil and not the points, you have solved the problem, easily
 
I had a 3 horse B & S that did the same. Went to get points and man said go electronic for about same price. Been trouble free for about twenty years,
 
I just went through that with an 83 roto tiller with a 5 hp engine. Went through carb with a kit and cleaned and acidized the old metal tank full of gunk. This was the style that had the carb attached to the tank.

Still wouldn't start but I thought maybe I was getting spark. Anyway, took it to a repair place. He pulled the flywheel to see if the key was sheared but it was ok. He said it was probably the points or coil and he just puts in a armature that does away with the points which he left in. Cost was $45 for armature and $30 labor.

Where are you guys getting these armatures for $10 or so?

I'm working on a 1996 5 hp Briggs that won't run. It ran when I shut it off 2 weeks ago then decided to spray some carb cleaner in the tank and clean it up since it surges sometimes and I read that may be fuel starvation. Went through the carb with a kit, new plug, and air filter. Gets plenty of good long spark, sometimes blue and sometimes yellow, it varies. It tries and brumbles along (with electric starter) trying to fire but won't run. Sounds about like a tractor out of time trying to run but doesn't. Starting fluid doesn't do anything but make it pop or backfire once in a while. Going to pull the flywheel and check the key and check to see if a valve is sticking but it gets compression. I hate to think it is the armature since it has spark and they cost between $25 plus shipping to $45 off the shelf locally. Any ideas?
 
ok, so which part are you suggesting? I have a 4 or 5hp B&S on a tiller that I can't get it to spark. I'm blaming the coil. Do I need the Atom module and their part 29-1043 (electronic ignition coil 1/3-1/2 way down the page)

thx
which one?
 
Put one on the B&S on the garden tiller. Never seen it start on the 1st pull before. Or idle so smooth and so slow.
 
Just bought a roto-tiller, had this little module thing mounted outside of engine. Would not hardly run spark was so bad, had to set plug for .015 to fire. Found out module was 5$ on internet, but bought one locally from dealer cost 30 bucks, runs like a champ. So they do fail.
 
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