There were some helpful replies to this thread but they became seperated. I have put them together. Hope it helps someone.
Original post:
Anyone have a tip on how to convince a new 10# maul handle to slide through.
Pertroleum products might rot the wood. I thought maybe wet it just a little to help it slide. Is it standard to sand it some. I don't really want to sand it down much and then have it loose even with the flat and circle wedges.
Any tips?
Thanks,
Dell
Always have to sand mine. Casting of heads are all different, just take a little at a time then test fit and sand where the marks are most pronounced.
Wetting wood is more likely to cause expansion and make it harder to get in.
I have installed a large number, and if you have the correct size, it should slide on . . . with a little encouragement. If you can get it started so that it will stay on, jam the base of the handle into a solid rock, stump, or slab until the tip of the handle is flush with the head of the hammer. Do not continue until it stops and cut the excess off, it will shorten the life of the handle. Then use the wedges furnished to tighten it up using a wood wedge first in the precut slit followed by a steel wedge across the wood wedge.
you can soak em in a pail of water once you install the handle, that will swell em up tight.its a grandfathers trick.
File it, sand it to a near fit, even if you think you went to far, then slather the business end with resorcinol glue. Work slowly, give the resorcinol five minutes to seep into the hardwood.
Spread the resorcinol liberally inside the head of the mall. Likewise coat the wooden wedge(s). Start the head on the handle, slam the butt end down hard vertically on something like an anvil. The resorcinol is slippery and will help you seat the head. Tap the wooden wedge in smartly.
If you have any gaps between the handle and the head, place the handle in a vice or stand it upright, and put a dollop of the remaining resorcinol right on top of the wedge and handle to work its way down. Throw the metal wedge in the trash(in my opinion). Let the mall set for a day, maybe two. Patience is a virtue. THEN see if you can bang that head loose.
Resorcinol glue used to be more common, a hardware store item. It was then and is now somewhat pricey. Depending where you live, it might not be available anymore, since the advent of tube glues like liquid nails. Nonetheless, it"s on the Internet, RPM Industries Inc. is the parent company.
Resorcinol is known as a marine glue. It is a two part mix, comes in two cans, one can has liquid, the other has powder. And, it is the red stuff that is between the plys in plywood.
Good luck with your mall.
Best Regards,
CharlieNJ
Original post:
Anyone have a tip on how to convince a new 10# maul handle to slide through.
Pertroleum products might rot the wood. I thought maybe wet it just a little to help it slide. Is it standard to sand it some. I don't really want to sand it down much and then have it loose even with the flat and circle wedges.
Any tips?
Thanks,
Dell
Always have to sand mine. Casting of heads are all different, just take a little at a time then test fit and sand where the marks are most pronounced.
Wetting wood is more likely to cause expansion and make it harder to get in.
I have installed a large number, and if you have the correct size, it should slide on . . . with a little encouragement. If you can get it started so that it will stay on, jam the base of the handle into a solid rock, stump, or slab until the tip of the handle is flush with the head of the hammer. Do not continue until it stops and cut the excess off, it will shorten the life of the handle. Then use the wedges furnished to tighten it up using a wood wedge first in the precut slit followed by a steel wedge across the wood wedge.
you can soak em in a pail of water once you install the handle, that will swell em up tight.its a grandfathers trick.
File it, sand it to a near fit, even if you think you went to far, then slather the business end with resorcinol glue. Work slowly, give the resorcinol five minutes to seep into the hardwood.
Spread the resorcinol liberally inside the head of the mall. Likewise coat the wooden wedge(s). Start the head on the handle, slam the butt end down hard vertically on something like an anvil. The resorcinol is slippery and will help you seat the head. Tap the wooden wedge in smartly.
If you have any gaps between the handle and the head, place the handle in a vice or stand it upright, and put a dollop of the remaining resorcinol right on top of the wedge and handle to work its way down. Throw the metal wedge in the trash(in my opinion). Let the mall set for a day, maybe two. Patience is a virtue. THEN see if you can bang that head loose.
Resorcinol glue used to be more common, a hardware store item. It was then and is now somewhat pricey. Depending where you live, it might not be available anymore, since the advent of tube glues like liquid nails. Nonetheless, it"s on the Internet, RPM Industries Inc. is the parent company.
Resorcinol is known as a marine glue. It is a two part mix, comes in two cans, one can has liquid, the other has powder. And, it is the red stuff that is between the plys in plywood.
Good luck with your mall.
Best Regards,
CharlieNJ
