Swd6 injector removal

[1974vette]

I am having trouble removing the injections out of my head. The head is on the tractor.
I used a bearing separator around the injector and hooked a slide hammer to it and can’t budge 3 of them.
I have removed several injectors in the past and didn’t have much troubled with it.
Am I able to heat the head around the injectors? Seems like a a bad idea but running out of options. Open to ideas.
Thanks in advance
Joel

 

[3LFarms]

What I did was remove the two studs, then turn the injector back and forth to loosen it enough to pull it. If the studs aren’t long enough to double nut them, you can cut them and remove and replace the studs once you get the injector out.
These heads are prone to cracking, so I wouldn’t apply too much heat. Good penetrating oil and strategically placed pry bars should get it out.

 

[rustred]

to me would say the sealing ring have been leaking and u have the injector chamber all plugged up with carbon. you are on the right track with that puller but that carbon can be as tight as a weld. so would need to get some carbon dissolving penetrate such as carb cleaner gunk squirted a long the wall, but the rubber dust o ring will prevent this. i have had some tight ones that came out with a chizel pounded under the ears, but your situation is worst. if the head was off a person could throw it in the caustic hot tank and hope for the best , and kiss them injectors good bye. just a last resort! have u had this unit running? cause getting it good and hot might help.

 

[1974vette]

I have it running but at least 1 injector is stuck open pouring way too much fuel in. I will keep squirting stuff in it and tapping on them. Next will be cut the studs so I can twist them.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Heat is a bad idea. You can’t get it hot enough to do any good with water in it, and if you drain the water and heat it that is just plain suicide.
The 1973 Motor’s manual shows a puller arrangement with thin nuts between the head and the injector mounting holes, and a pushing device to push down on the head while pulling up on the injector.
You will of course need to remove the studs to do this.

 

[rustred]

Cutting the studs is a bad idea. Might be creating more problems. Try an air punch and keep rattling on each side back and forth with the studs in. That should vibrate the injector a small amount each way. While. Upward pressure is on it. Probably. Why the 282’s use bolts. If u can’t unscrew them with 2 nuts on top I would leave them in.

 

[rustred]

Cutting the studs is a bad idea. Might be creating more problems. Try an air punch and keep rattling on each side back and forth with the studs in. That should vibrate the injector a small amount each way. While. Upward pressure is on it. Probably. Why the 282’s use bolts. If u can’t unscrew them with 2 nuts on top I would leave them in. Ooorrr, rig up somthing So u can pull on them with an overhead chain hoist at an angle to match. With you brg splitter installed. U need something that eats carbon like brake clean or gunk. Oiling don’t do much.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

 

[3LFarms]

I agree that cutting the studs is one step away from the nuclear option of just destroying the injector and removing it in pieces, but it comes down to the fact that a new injector is a lot cheaper than sourcing a new head.

 

[rustred]

I agree that cutting the studs is one step away from the nuclear option of just destroying the injector and removing it in pieces, but it comes down to the fact that a new injector is a lot cheaper than sourcing a new head.

not that so much ,... as redrilling the old studs out !

 

[rustred]

I have it running but at least 1 injector is stuck open pouring way too much fuel in. I will keep squirting stuff in it and tapping on them. Next will be cut the studs so I can twist them.

dont know if you thought of just pulling the nozzle out of the injector while its still in the head.

 

[1974vette]

I finally got them out without busting anything else. I think. I used a chain to hold my puller from spreading because there isn’t a good spot to support the puller on the head for #1

 

[1974vette]

So now on the replacement injector can I use some anti seize? I will clean out the holes with some light sanding to get rid of carbon/rust, blow them out. Hopefully should be good to go.

 

[Fritz Maurer]

Always feels good when that stuff starts moving, doesn’t it? Great Job!

 

[rustred]

perfect ! just clean out all the carbon . do not use any lube of any kind on the injector body. the most important thing is to make sure u use new sealing rings, maybe some thin grease sparingly only on the seal rings. and have new rubber dust seals at the top at the top. torque each side back and forth a little at a time to get a good seal on the rings. after starting u could check the seal with soapy water. run it then recheck the torque.

 

[1974vette]

Where would I find those sealing rings?
I think I looked for some a while back and were discontinued

 

[rustred]

Need to try the Ihc dealer ., maybe someone with new old stock. Maybe red power magazine adds. Yes this old stuff getting hard to find.

 

[rustred]

Need to try the Ihc dealer ., maybe someone with new old stock. Maybe red power magazine adds. Yes this old stuff getting hard to find.

 

[560Dennis]

Had tight one on the 560 . Soaked it with some seafoam couple of days. Was in no hurry to bust it.
Don’t remember ,I think I use jam nut under flange and bolts longer threads to jack screw pressure outwareds. Don’t over over thighen on the flanges , uneven pressure will bind it up .
Also used pipe wrench to spanner a rotating back and fourth motion on injector with the with light rotating pressure .
Also used a brass bar stock and tapped around the diameter to shock it to get the seafoam soak into carbon .
eventually got it out.
moral is don’t get in a hurry and don’t apply excessive pressure or heat.
good luck
keep us posted

 

[1974vette]

I got the injectors out and put in some from a better running tractor. It continues to smoke excessively and fuel coming out the exhaust.
It seems to be missing and popping especially under power. It starts on gas and runs on gas real well.
I have not done a compression test and I will recheck the valve clearance and switch over mechanism. I did a oil change and no signs of water or coolant at all. Not sure what else to do. The tractor was a basket case when I got it. Shifter and rails froze up rear inner wheel bearings were out. I also cleaned fuel system and new filters.