ot moving grain bin

[Anonymous-0]

I have a chance to buy a 5000 bushel bin from a neighbour. It could be moved with a crane without dismantling it, but it has a full aeration floor in it. Do I have to remove the floor before I move it? If not, how do I get the floor stands set properly? any advice is appreciated and thanks in advance

 

[msb]

Floor has to come out. The floor sheets are not fastened to the bin per see. Flashing is screwed to the floor and would not support the floor.An electric impact wrench will easily shear the flashing bolts on the outside by tightening them until they snap. Use a 3/8" drill and whatever bit it takes to remove the flashing from the floor on the inside. Use 5/16"tek screws to install the flashing to the floor after the move.Its not a big job..

 

[glennster]

if its got an air floor, its prolly sitting on one row of conctrete block, the drying bins i moved had two rows. after the flashing is removed, you remove the floor, it should be sections about 8-10 inches wide that snap together kinda like a pergo floor. use a black magic marker and number the floor sections across tthe bin floor before you remove them. also helps to draw 2 parellel lines about 4 feet apart across the floor so when you install it, you can get the same pieces in the sameplace. get the block too, you will need them to set the floor on. note the direction they are laid out and the spacing so you can set it back up the same way.and oh yeah, tie the cuff of you jeans tight with bailing twine cause the mice that come out of the fines like to run right up yer pantlegs!!!!!

 

[super99]

I Agree with the other guys. MARK EVERYTHING!!! I use a can of spray paint, easier to see big numbers. To make life simpler, you want everthing to go back in the SAME place. Start taking floor out at the door and work across. Last piece needs to be marked with a line on piece that runs up the wall so you get started in the right place or else when you get to the center unload, you will be off and have to cut and fit. Check unloading auger out real good, now is the time to fix anything iffy on it[bearing, chain, rust holes, thinspots, etc]. We usually take a couple of short pieces of 4x4 to put under the next piece as you take floor out to brake over center to get pieces apart. Pay attention to block or leg spacing under the floor, Need more in the center and less on the outside edges. When putting back in, after you connect the 2 pieces, we use the 4x4 to lay on top and whack with a bfh to seat and lock pieces together. When setting the bin, you want to get it as round as possible. I mark center of pad with a can of spray paint and mark where outside of bin should set and then you can pull or push to get close to marks. Say the bin is 21', from center of pad measure out 10 1/2' and put mark in a circle about every 4 or 5'. Makes it go faster and easier than stretching tape across inside of bin and moving around measuring and remeasuring trying to get it centered. Be sure to caulk around transition real good. If you run into problems, come back and ask. Chris

 

[Anonymous-0]

If you aren't using the bin to dry then this is what we do. When we pour the concrete we leave a gully clear through the center of the foundation using 2x12's. That leaves an opening at one end for the pullout auger with enough room for the center well and at the other end we put the fan. You have to run the floor perpendicular to the gully (or at whatever angle the original pullout auger ran to the floor). Once you get to the well it is easy to shift the floor around so if you are off a bit don't worry. Doing it this way eliminates those darned stands, saves that much extra storage space and still allows air to get under the floor completly. You will have to put bin bolts back where the original floor flashing bolts were IF you had to remove them. Usually they are a bolt from outside with a nut on inside to hold in place then the flashing and finally another nut to hold the flashing so really all that needs removed is the first nut. And you will have to redrill all new holes for the flashing bolts.