OT Multiflora Rose

super99

Well-known Member
A guy at work has 30 acres of timber that he hunts in, and the multiflora rose is getting bad in it and he asked me what would kill it. I told him that I would wait till it greens up and then soak it with a strong mix of roundup. Is there anything left on the market that will kill it? Thought I had heard of a brush killer but can't find a name. Any suggestions? Chris
 
When I was a kid, we cut it and, while it was fresh, sprayed it with gasoline (50 something cents a gallon then though). I don't know of anything else that would kill it, but cutting and keeping it cut would keep it from growing bulbs that the birds would spread. Goats wiped out anything that would try to sprout again.

Dave
 
Hello here in So, Il. it works as you said, Iv'e done away with multiflorals and honey suckle that way, you have to remember it has to be in the growing state for plant to absorb chemical for it's process to work. Boco
 
In the warm seasons I keep a 3 gal sprayer with round-up in it in the back of the truck for roses, thistles and fence rows . When I hit a rose I just soak it heavy compared to the fence rows or around a barn . I`ve killed a bunch of`em but hav`nt put much of a dent in`em !! It is about a even run now rocks for roses !! Youd be supprised how much ground you can cover with a 3 gal. and some extra water . I tried some brush killer I got at co-op one time but it did`nt seem to do much .
 
Several years ago I bought the herbicide, Spike which came in a granular form. The herbicide box/can came with a sling and was set so one could meter out the recommended amount and then sprinkle it on the multiflora rose bush. Worked great but a Pringles potato chip sized can was $50. Guess you could kill 50 or so with each can.
 
We used Spike one time and was told it would`nt kill the grass and we used it on a hillside and there was a dead spot 5-10 feet from the plant downhill on each one . I think the round-up can be controled alittle better . The Spike did do a good job of killin the bushes .
 
Twenty years ago, when I was still farming in Illinois, I used "Tordon" pellets which I got from my local fertilizer dealer. A bottle cap full would kill a lone plant,2-3 whips[plus all the grass]. Don't know what kind of applicator license you would need or if it would even be avaiable today. They came in a gallon container similar to a milk carton.
 
I used to use Crossbow but am not sure if it is still available or not. Sprayed them when they were coming into bloom. Killed the roses and didnt bother the grass.
 
There is a product on the market called Crossbow. This is what took the place of 2-4-5-t whick was the old brush killer. Works well... kind of pricey $$$$
 
Crossbow designed for woody plants,ie:blackberries'hawthorn.wild rose, etc about $185.00 per 2 1/2 gallon container. 2 to 3 ozs per gallon of water. works real good if you can mow and then spray right behind the mower. HTH
 
just for the record, this is why 2-4-5-t was taken off the market

Agent Orange was a mixture of 2,4,5-T, and 2,4-dichlorophenoxyacetic acid (2,4-D)
 
I've tried all sorts of sprays, chopping it, digging it, and even burning it. The best thing I have found to get rid of it is GOATS. They LOVE the stuff and will eat it down to the ground and keep it chewed down until it dies. I cut some out of a fence row and tossed it over into the pen one time. They about killed each other to get it.
 
Multiflora Rose is a shallow rooted plant and it easily pushed out with an ordinary tractor and loader. Crossbow, Spike and Hyvar are all very effective controls. They all work best when applied in the fall.I prefer using a loader. That works anytime.
 
I use Buckeneer or Crossbow. Best in the fall, a month before the leaves start to fall. Add a tablespoon of Dawn dishwashing liquid to mix to break down the oils on the leaves. The plant will pull the spray to the roots and gets them good and it doesn't kill the grass....James
 
To be safe and out of what could be trouble go to your extension office and see what they recomend you can kill trees and polute ground water and it goes on and on its not your property never know who is looking over your shoulder. Be smart know all the facts first. Your spray drifted over and killed my tree ect.Things just arent what they used to be.
 
Roundup works great for me here in N C also. It is not near as nasty as crossbow. I had bunches of them as big as a house when I first started to fight them. I have a 70 gal. sprayer with a nozzle gun and 200ft of hose. The gun will spray about 50 ft. I had them so bad at one time I could park the tractor and spray out 60 gallons of spray without ever moving the tractor.
 
One.. leave it alone unless the land is yours.Report it to the authority concerned and if it's the same action as here, report it again next year,
 
A strong mix of roundup will work well but it is VERY IMPORTANT TO USE IT IN THE FALL, after seed set and just before the leaves start to turn, or while they are turning colors.

That way translocation in the plant is from the leaves to the roots (vs roots to leave, flowers and fruit as during most of the growing season) and the Roundup will "hitch a ride" and very effectively kill the roots.

If possible I would brush hog the stuff to the ground by late spring, that will reduce the amount of seeds set and the re-growth will be lower and easier to spray.
 
A couple of things: 2,4,5t plus 2,4-d was Agent orange, yes, worked well, that's good. Was contaminated with dioxin, that's bad. Silvex was the 2,4,5-t, was banned cause of the media frenzy over agent orange, that's bad. Roundup will work on these MF roses, I think what works best, is to first cut back the stems to about 10" tall, then paint the cut stems with a 50% solution of full strength roundup(41% a.i.) and water. In a few weeks, cut an inch off, and repeat. Another product that I have used is Spike, from Dow/Elanco, I think, it comes in little pellets like wood pellets, you just drop them in the root zone of the MF rose, amount to use is determined by the size of the bush. It doesn't kill grass, just broadleaves and trees. Works great for fencelines, but don't use it in wet areas, as it will move in water. With all chemicals, use as the label directs, and remember that if a little works, a little more doesn't necessarily increase effectiveness. Lastly ALL chemicals work best if the target weed is actively growing!
 
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