OT: Replacement Windows

N. TX Tim

Member
I plan to replace the windows in my house. I am going to do the work myself and do a couple at a time as I can afford them and have the time to do the work. I live just west of Wichita Falls TX.

Any suggestions on what manufacturer to use/avoid, what options are desired or a waste of money, where to purchase locally or who to order from. Also, any installation pointers. I have heard that you just caulk replacement windows in place (seems odd to me) and I have heard from others that you drill holes through the sides and shim/screw inplace.

Sorry for the OT post, but since I can"t use my tractors to make any hay as North Texas is in a severe drought, I figured I would try to get some other projects done.

Thanks in advance,
Tim
 
Replacement windows I have been around had 4 holes per window for the screws to go through. Manufacturers may be somewhat local, I am not sure. We got ours through our local lumberyard which was having a truckload sale, this was in 2005 and we got 30x60 DH new construction windows with full screen, low E glass and J channel for about $140 each. They were made by Xact, I think from Michigan or somewhere out that way.
Zach
 
I don't know if Colby and Colby are available in your area,or if they're even still available at all,but that's what I used. Honest to God,hand on the Bible,it took longer to take an old one out than it did to put a new one of those in.
There's just two vinyl tracks. There's two metal tabs that you nail on the old casing after you tale the old window out. You snap the tracks on,tip the upper and lower window halves in and that's it. They tilt in for cleaning,they're double pane,seal super tight. You couldn't ask for anything any easier or better.
 
Box store sells them at a pretty fair price most common window sizes are a stock item usually 4 screws into jamb then a good caulking on the exterior, first one (Window) will take you a hour next one 20 minutes.
 
I am not near you ,so i can offer no recommendations as to a company.But a few options i bought were triple pane and low e glass.I only have six as i recall in my whole house,but they lowered my electric bill a min of $50 month,this last month was hottest on record,and electric bill was $241. Before i replaced the doors and windows it was averaging near $400 during the summer. How you install them has a lot to do with if you have standard size windows and openings. On mine they were made to fit since i had brick and all,and they simply slid them in,couple of screws top and bottom and caulked inside and out.Getting the old ones out,the guys who did mine simply scored the glass with glass cutter,tapped it in middle to crack it then took out pieces. then simply cut the middle frame and folded the sides , top and bottom inward towards middle.Pulled it all out and slid the new ones in right against the old window trim inside.i personaly would have foamed around them, but they took insulation and put in gaps around window to seal them.It may have been just my installers,but they said not to use foam because as it expands it will warp the windows.
 
Definitely "do not" use expandable foam as it will expand and you will not be able to open your windows. Most local suppliers have a good quality window available. Lots of companies make them, and hard to say which are available in your area. We have used several different brands over the years and was really only dissatisfied with one. Basically, the same old rule applies, if you buy cheap, you get cheap.
 
Just another note. We put in Crestline vinly sliding windows in our own house 18 years ago, mainly because we were on a tight budget and they were quite a bit cheaper than double hung at the time. They are still in good condition and still keeping out the wind and cold just fine. I'm not sold on sliders, but they have did an excellent job.
 
Small world, I live in WF and have land in Clay co. get any good showers last nite? TV said we got .74 in town, dont know about the farm yet
 
I was really surprised at how much they helped my house,but we had the cheapest windows you could buy in there i think. You could see the curtains move when the wind blew. I need to add insulation now,and i think it will help a lot also. ive been remodeling the inside this summer as ive had time,and its really amazing how cheaply they threw these houses up here in the early seventies.
 
This is just another American rip off. The ones that advertise the most are the worst!
I have 11 windows in my home, one large picture window.
I had two of the well advertised companys come by for an estimate.
It turns out they both slam the other's products claiming that their's is the very best.
The high quote was $8,375. ($761.36 each) LOL These people are insane and any fool that pays that is even more insane!
The low quote was from the company that does not manufacture anything but sells windows from 2 manufacturers with THEIR name on them. Their final, final, final offer price was $3,890.
I bought from a local window manufacturer with full lifetime replacement warrany on all parts (including glass) the top of the line, best double tempered glass, 7/8 gap full of argon, tinted to the highest Fed standards. I paid $2,289.
Once again, if you have these window people come to your home, have your pants down because they will stick it to you and how!
 
TOP priority to me is the type that you can tilt-in for cleaning! Amazingly good feature to have.

We have a full two story house... all windows tilt in for cleaning, are double hung, both top and bottom are movable, full screen on all windows, each window has double locks and also a safety lock feature on each side of frame - so you can leave your windows open about 4 inches and they cannot be opened any farther while lock is in use.
 
we put in Crestline sliding doors (5 of them) and a window 10 or so years ago and have had no problems other than the neighbor boys running thru the screen door and messing up the track.

Looking at getting 2 myself and looking at Crestline or some Andersons.
 
I thought I was getting the best when I replaced my windows, also a few at a time. 3 damaged by hail, some others I put in to match as I got the money.

I put in Anderson. I am not real pleased with them. Unless they have changed, they are starting to rot out on the bottom. What I thought was vinyl was instead just a paint or coating. less than 10 years old and they are shot.

Gene
 
House in Dallas originally had single pane aluminum windows. They sweated so much during the winter I had to keep towels in the sills.

Replaced all of them with Certainteed, lifetime warranty, double pane, double hung, tilt out, vinyl, nearly 15 yrs ago. No problems. Two windows are on the west and get the baking Texas summer sun. They're fine.

Huge difference. No sweating and house is much quieter.
 
(quoted from post at 08:06:38 08/15/12) This is just another American rip off. The ones that advertise the most are the worst!
I have 11 windows in my home, one large picture window.
I had two of the well advertised companys come by for an estimate.
It turns out they both slam the other's products claiming that their's is the very best.
The high quote was $8,375. ($761.36 each) LOL These people are insane and any fool that pays that is even more insane!
The low quote was from the company that does not manufacture anything but sells windows from 2 manufacturers with THEIR name on them. Their final, final, final offer price was $3,890.
I bought from a local window manufacturer with full lifetime replacement warrany on all parts (including glass) the top of the line, best double tempered glass, 7/8 gap full of argon, tinted to the highest Fed standards. I paid $2,289.
Once again, if you have these window people come to your home, have your pants down because they will stick it to you and how!

I think I have to agree with you. Local windows, siding, and gutter company here quoted me an outrageous price, and then I learned they were going to simply install those insert type windows, with no regard to the fact that the existing window frames are totally rotted out and there is NOTHING to place an insert window into.
 
A lot depends on your house and how old it is and what kind of windows you already have. If your frames are rotted the it's going to cost. But done correct they should outlast you. Our house is 140 years old so we went with all wood windows to keep it the same. Payed over $800 for a front window but only $250 for the double hung windows. My window casings were in good shape for there age. Call around I found people who do good work and cheap, well except for the big living room windows with 7 little windows across the top. If you have those with stained glass at the top or sides then win the lottery first.
Walt
 
2 miles east of IP, it seemed to vary in the feed tubs this morning from about 1/4 to 3/4 of an inch. I"ll take whatever we get!
 
Something I know a little about, more on commercial building windows, but theres a few things to be aware of.

You want manufacturer that produces a quality window that performs. I consider air and water infiltration key performance aspects of any window. The window itself should have been tested in a controlled lab setting, for the above. For starters, the window itself, needs to perform, meaning its of good quality manufacture, stand alone, meets the test criteria for the above water and air infiltration. Glazing obviously you have some choices but obviously well made insulated glass with specified coatings on 1-4 surfaces per your needs may be important say if you want to eliminate UV rays or shade natural light or what have you.

That said, the best made window, but poorly installed, makes the window worthless. You need to survey the rough opening, and match up the window for size, compatibility with existing construction and insure that it can be securely fastened, without violating air and water infiltration properties on the window itself or within the assembly as a whole. We used to test them in the various labs around the country, one of the most impressive was ATI in York PA. Take a window that by itself performs, then install it in a mocked up section of a building that is constructed against a pressurized chamber, duplicating actual building conditions, then place a spray rig and or fan (I have been at tests where piston engine airplane engines have been used to replicate wind) properly installed it will perform to design criteria.

Most of that is for higher performing commercial applications where conditions are more harsh, or new products being manufactured, some of which may need to meet certain manufacturing association certifications, or reference standards. Really interesting to see the tests at ATI in York PA, opening and closing of doors, windows, cycling them to duplicate a duration in service, air and water test and a myriad of other similar tests.

A window that has met some kind of design criteria, been tested and there is existing performance data would win hands down vs an unknown product with a lot of advertising behind it.

I see 2 important things with windows, has to be good proven quality(reference above) and it has to be installed correctly, given the conditions on the building, which are all unique. Take a quality window and stuff it in a tight or unsuitable rough opening, its worthless, so is why I say to look at the existing conditions carefully, measure, take some time to match the window to what you have, or find one that will if what you are looking at does not.

Sealants should be a of high quality, one of my favorites is Dow 795 and other Dow 700 series silicones. Make sure the sealant will bond to all types of substrates, wood, metal, masonry, etc. as you can have combinations of substrates, if it bonds to one side, but not another, it will not perform. Fasteners are single leading cause of leaks, so you want to look at fastening details, most times fastener heads need to be sealed with sealant to eliminate leaks.

Residential windows are for the most part easy, but if you take some time with what I mentioned above, most likely you'll get a quality installation that will perform.

If you live in a harsher or say windy, cold, rainy environment, windows are facing the weather, absolutely take the care to look at window specifications and product data by reputable manufacturers.

In NYC for example, on the corners of buildings for a certain distance each way and from a certain height, metal and glass exterior assemblies, windows or what have you must meet a 54 pounds per square foot criteria, with no water or air infiltration allowed, this is the more stringent criteria, but for a reason.
 
my folks went from the old wood frame single pane with alum storm to Marvin replacements in about 96. It EASILY cut their heat bill 30%. They are/were made to order for your opening and fit beautiful. A contractor did the work as I don't know if they will sell direct to consumer. I, on the other hand put in Caradco cuz "they're just as good as Andersen". NOT!!! My windows are JUNK. I always thought with Andersen you pay for a name but you get what you pay for. So, my choices are Marvin and Andersen. I'm sure there are others now too.
 
We installed Peachtree all-vinyl double-thermopane windows, some sort of emmission glass, and like them a whole lot. I explained to wife how she could now click them and tilt the sashes in, and wash all the inside and outside of all the windows. Eassy as pie.
Got a long, slow, sideways look, "...uh-huh...." hasn"t happened yet.....
 
I bought about 3 dozen from home depot- ener-stars? All went in easy- if you measure it right, special sizes were no big deal, and a couple years ago one pane broke- on a porch, I figured the building moved that night cause it got down to 20 below. I called home depot, they gave me a toll free number. Gal asked for the number on the sticker on the busted one. She says 'we will send instructions with a free new pane today Tony'.... I sez 'how did you know my name?' She sez 'cause that is a window you bought from us'. I was impressed! On rotten cold windy nights there is a draft from one corner of one on a north side.... I don't blame their windows, but the house that was built when oil was 10 cents a gallon.
 
I'm a window, siding, and roofing contractor. Any windows I've ever put in have a hole near each corner for screws. Unless the windows are huge, we never shim behind the screw. We stick the window in the opening, open the bottom sash slightly so you can see a crack of daylight between the sash and the bottom frame, and slide the window sideways either way until that crack of daylight is even the whole way across. Then just put the screws in so they touch the frame. Repeat for the top. Check for square then, but it'll be on if the gaps are even. Make sure you leave 1/4" or so room around the window when you're measuring and ordering, to leave room to adjust the new window. Measure the opening in a few different spots, sometimes they'll be tighter in the middle. Then we insulate around the window, (watch you don't stuff it too much and bow the frame), and caulk inside and out. We use Quad caulk, you can get it at Home Depot. It's paintable and seems to hold up good. Stay away from any caulk that says "Water Cleanup". We usually replace windows by sawing off the outside wood stop with a sawzall. Then pull out the sashes, never touching the inside trim. Most of the mess stays outside and you don't have to worry about cracking or patching the paint on the inside trim. We set the new windows in against the inside stop. Screw the window fast like I described, and then bend alluminum to cover over the outside wood and out onto the window with a 5/8" flange. It's sealed up tight then and there's no more painting. If you're not going to cover the outside trim, then your best option in pulling off the inside trim and pulling out the sashes. Put the new window in, insulate, nail back the trim and caulk.

I like double hung (both sashes move) tilt-to-clean windows. Get the Low-E coating and Argon gas between the panes. The coating reflects sunlight back out and the argon gas insulates better than just air between the panes. It's not just a sales gimmick it really makes a difference.
 
N.Tx.Tim, There is a local company that Advertise on WBAP out of Ft.Worth/Dallas, 820 am. They seem to me to have a very good warranty and will structure installation on an as needed basis...............
Went and found them "Clarity Windows" @ 888-458-3630. They are on WBAPs Home page Hope this helps.
Later,
John A.
 
I put crestline in my last remodel, they were great windows. My new house has Anderson and they leak like sieves.
 
Do a lot of work around here and get in to windows several times a year. I also go to the seminars to keep my licensing current/continuing education.

I have Andersen's in my house (13 yrs now) - no problems. Just put Pella Architect series in my shop (WAY overkill, but I got a deal from my rep that I couldn't pass up) That level of Pella is a very very nice window and better than tyhe Andersen's in my house, only because it is Pella's top of the line and the Andersen's were not their top of the line.

But... out of the "Big 3", I would go with Marvin over the other two. They install so easy and to me, the quality is better than the other 2. Marvin also has an all fiberglass line which I would take in a heartbeat too.

Good Luck.

Tony
 
I get called often to FIX new windows. One big box store has their rear end covered by the terms....not designed for high wind areas......well where in heck would that be?

Expandable foam does work if you get the non expanding type. (for windows and doors) It just does not expand as it dries.

I used to measure the windows, but now I have the company measure them because they make the mark up, so why should I gambel on a mistake?

A SEARS salesman told me that they could over charge a very large amount if folks used their Sears charge card because they could care less about the price as long as they could charge it.
 
Around here in NWIA Andersen and Pella have been considered the top windows but they are being edged out by a couple of other brands. I have had Andersens for maybe 15 years or a little more. Some are double hung and some are crank out. The double hung windows are still working good and I have no complaints. The crank outs crank hard and I've had to replace the crank mechanism on a couple of them. The crank outs do seem to seal well.

I don't know if you are considering a bay window in any of the openings, but if you are considering one ask a lot of questions first. Talk with bay window owners. Several of Marilyn's family members have had nightmares with bay windows fogging, frosting and leaking due to both poor design and improper installation. Don't cut corners on cost. Get a good one that will cost a lot or don't do it, and if you aren't sure about the installation, pay a professional to install it. We had a 72" wide by 60" high bay put in two years ago but we researched it heavily first. We ended up with a Pella and by the time the sawdust had settled we had $5000 in it, but it has performed flawlessly for us. Jim
 
I am replacing the windows in a hundred yeay old house a few at a time I have been installinf jeld-win vynel double glased with low E glass and argon gas inbetween the glass they have worked well here in wisconsins weather the double hung arent too bad to install,and they make this wide stickey tape to put around on the nailing flange that will stop most of the air leaks then use some of the minimal expanding foam to fill in any small gaps and trim ! the worst part was getting the trim to look pretty
 

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