OT Sharpening Your Chain Saw

[Texasmark1]

Had a lot of ice damage to my trees. Working it into the wood lot. Never was good at sharpening chains. Question on motorized sharpener:

Seems real complicated setup as compared to a file on the chain while still on the saw or better yet the Dremel tool with the stone. As I see it there is a 1/8" x 4 1/2" wheel that cuts at an angle, like 45* to cut the groove.

What about the depth guide part of the blade preceeding the cutting part? I am using blades 16" or less on gas and electric saws. Groves are 5/32" and depth gauges are .025". When do you do the depth? Been reading what I could from folks selling them but no comment on the depth.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[Buddy]

Check out chainsaw sharpening on you tube. Their is a lot of information their .

 

[JayinNY]

There not hard to use at all, and way more accurate than filing by hand. Here's mine, had it for 10 years now.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

This is what I use. Better than a file
diamond rotary file

 

[T.R.K.]

I sharpen chains regularly on my job. We use one of the nicer Oregon grinders.
I check the depth gauge every time I sharpen one.
Its rare that the depth guage doesn"t need to be adjusted.
However, most people who bring their chains in to be sharpened only do so when it just won"t cut at all any more and I usually have to take right much metal off each tooth to get back past the worn part.

I am aware that some people who file their chains regularly while using them can file 3 or 4 times, maybe more before they need to lower their depth guages.

One other thing: You say you are using short chains, 16" or less. That usually means the saw has rather low power. And it is even more important to keep the depth guages from exceeding their specified depth, to keep from overloading the saw.

 

[tbish]

sharpening a chain saw is easy if you look at a dull chain you will see a shiny place on the cutting tip just file it with the angle of the chain until that shiny spot is gone and il guarantee it will cut just make sure u get all the shiny areas on the cutting edge i can do a 36 in bar in 10 min takes longer than that to set all those fancy gadgets up

 

[Dean]

I bought an inexpensive Northern Tool power sharperner about a year ago when it was on sale for $90. It has paid for itself nearly two times over in the last year.

It takes me about 15 minutes to remove, sharpen and replace a 20" chain.

Dean

 

[D beatty]

I sharpen mine by hand with a file on the saw. Once you learn how to sharpen a chain you can do it faster than a machine. I have taken chains to dealer to be sharpened and have to file by hand to get them to through chips not dust. For the depth guides ( rakers) there is a tool that you can use to get the depth right.I use chain that doesn't have the depth guides or I file them way down.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

I have an electric bench wheel grinder I bought
in 1977 to sharpen chains.Great tool for sure.Once you get used to it you can grind chains in a hurry and then your chains are sharpened all the same and it also cuts the drags.I usually keep about 8 or 10 chains for each saw and when one gets dull just put on another chain and then when its a really cold or snowy day I work on the chains in my basement down where the wood stove is located.Haven't used a chainsaw file in years.

 

[60 acre hillside]

I can file a chain faster than I can take a chain off the saw and replace it. I have used sharpeners when I worked in a farm equipment dealer's shop. The customers were farmers and not loggers. Some had several chains and they would bring in chains they had sawn into fence wire, at times I would have to cut away half of the tooth to get a good edge, My advice avoid dirt and nails and file by hand.

 

[Bret4207]

You don't need an electric grinder. What you need is a Husky roller jig and some files. Easy to use, accurate, any dummy can use one.

http://www.husqvarna.com/us/support/working-with-chainsaws/filing-the-chain/

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Files-Filing/File-Kits/Husqvarna-Filing-Kit-for-3-8-Pitch-Chainsaw-Chain.axd

http://www.baileysonline.com/Chainsaws/Files-Filing/Filing-Guides/Husqvarna-Combination-Swedish-Roller-Guide-for-3-8-Pitch-Chainsaw-Chain.axd

All you need to do it determine your chain size and get the kit at Lowes, Baileys or your local Husky dealer. Sthil chain may require a few strokes with the flat file opening the sides of the mounting part of the guide. After that, put the guide on the bar over the tooth and file. That's it. The guide also has a depth gauge/raker guide that's easy to use.

Cheap, effective, no power required, works in the field too.

 

[RLA]

I'm with 60 Hillside, Sharpeners just take life
off the chain I can free hand file a chain that
cuts straight after it's been stoned. By the time
you get your trees cut, you'll know how to free
hand sharpen a chain.. Same amount of strokes
with a GOOD File, same angle. & touch up the
rakers after a few sharpen's......

 

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have been sharpening all of my chains by hand for 11 years and it is really not hard. You want all of the teeth to be the same length and have the same angle on them. In my opinion a power grinder is a waste of money and wastes tooth material by grinding off too much at a time.
Zach

 

[Texasmark1]

Ok guys. Thanks. I did know about the saw dust vs chips and besides the cutting speed slowing down, that's how I can tell mine is dull and or the "raker" is to high. I have the Stihl gas 16 and Remington electric in 10 on a pole and 14 stand alone. All cut really well and I am really impressed with the way the Stihl sits and idles if I put it down. I had Poulans before and never could get them to idle. Also use Stihl oil.

Using Oregon chains from Bailey's and a great chain at a reasonable price.

I bought the bar and chain oil from TSC and it is too thick even at 50* ambient temp so I thinned it about 3:1 with some synthetic ATF I had sitting around. Works a lot better. Oil tank now is keeping up with the gas tank.

Good cutting and thanks for the responses.

Mark

 

[teddy52food]

That is what I use too. Just keep touching them up before they get too dull.

 

[Blackhole49]

I use a die grinder with a carbide bit. Leave the chain on the saw and just eye ball it. About every third or fourth sharpening. I file the rakers with a guide. When doing a lot of cutting, I sharpen about every hour. Never had a problem keeping them sharp and chains last a long time. If cutting away from my place, I make sure I have a couple of sharp chains before I leave. When I heated with wood for 10 years, used to burn between 12 and 15 full cord a year.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

Only takes a few minutes, cheap too. I made a vice with wood blocks, on work bench to hold chainsaw bar. Used sharpie to show the angle I need to hold the dremmel tool. When you use this tool, a small burr will form in top flat part of tooth when it's sharp. I leave burr and chains is razor sharp.

 

[az .peapicker]

Like they said if you have an electric chain sharpner and set it up right you can take as little as needed to get the cutting edge sharp .
The main reason to sharpen the chain with an electric one is to get the chain cutting teeth the same length so it will cut straight & not in a curve . Because being Human you can t get the same stroke on each tooth every time & if you damage a tooth it takes a lot more to sharpen.
I have had an Electric Chain Grinder for over 30 years & no complaints yet .

John in Az.

 

[IH2444]

(quoted from post at 17:48:00 12/20/13) I can file a chain faster than I can take a chain off the saw and replace it. I have used sharpeners when I worked in a farm equipment dealer's shop. The customers were farmers and not loggers. Some had several chains and they would bring in chains they had sawn into fence wire, at times I would have to cut away half of the tooth to get a good edge, My advice avoid dirt and nails and file by hand.

Me too, about 5-7 minutes to sharpen up my chain with with a file with the Oregon file guide on it.

 

[Texasmark1]

Well per most of the suggestions you guys submitted, I spent the day learning how to sharpen a chain with a file. In short it went real well. I sharpened the ones on the saws and then took the spares and put them in my 4 or 5" vise (didn't measure it but I think it is 4"). Could get 4 links at a time so I filed both directions with one grip.

Took the one currently mounted on the Stihl out to the Pecan tree trunk which was 24" across....bar is 16" on the saw. Did real well, nice chips, no saw dust, and cut at a good rate.

Did notice that you go through files rather rapidly.

I can see where an electric grinder can be a problem in removing too much material. On my best chains I only put 4 strokes per blade and worst 20 with the others at 8 or 12.

Thanks again for your comments.

Mark

 

[glennster]

i picked up a stihl saw sharpener, its basically a 12v dremel hand grinder. works good for keeping saws sharp while out cutting. can hook it up to the pickup battery, or, the golf cart. about 50 bucks.

 

[Bret4207]

(quoted from post at 15:42:41 12/20/13) Well per most of the suggestions you guys submitted, I spent the day learning how to sharpen a chain with a file. In short it went real well. I sharpened the ones on the saws and then took the spares and put them in my 4 or 5" vise (didn't measure it but I think it is 4"). Could get 4 links at a time so I filed both directions with one grip.

Took the one currently mounted on the Stihl out to the Pecan tree trunk which was 24" across....bar is 16" on the saw. Did real well, nice chips, no saw dust, and cut at a good rate.

Did notice that you go through files rather rapidly.

I can see where an electric grinder can be a problem in removing too much material. On my best chains I only put 4 strokes per blade and worst 20 with the others at 8 or 12.

Thanks again for your comments.

Mark

Go to the Baileys website. They sell a variety of file brands. Pferd has always been good for me, much better than Oregon or Stihl, but who knows who actually makes them.

 

[Traditional Farmer]

When was the last time you went into a chainsaw shop and they sharpened the chains with a file and not a grinder? If it was better and quicker they'd all be using files instead of grinders.

 

[GVSII]

Texasmark1,Are you useing a file card on the file after 10 or 12 strokes with it? There is no way you should be wearing out files that quickly!
They are much harder than the chain.

 

[DENNIS MIN]

Bret,

You made that suggestion earlier this year to me. I just got the pferd files and agree, they cut nicely.

D.

 

[Texasmark1]

I bought the files at Home Depot, 2 to a card. I make the power
stroke and then lift off the tooth for the return. I have a small
wire brush that I dust out the remnants every half dozen teeth.
You can run your fingers down a worn one and a new one and
feel the difference and see it also.

I originally read up on the cutting angle of 25 to 35* and results
of each. My OEM chain groove is 30 and there is enough of it to
give me a guide for eyeballing the cut. Lot easier for me than
using an angle tool that HD also sold me along with my depth
gauge and the mickey mouse flat file that was in that.

Since they had a lot of files hanging on the rack, I just figured
that they wore out fairly rapidly.

While there I also bought some stones that just happen to fit my
Dremel too. I tried that initially and found that I overheated
several teeth and changed their temper whereby they are hard as
tungsten (guess).

Thanks,
Mark