OT Tree Planting

[Anonymous-0]

This is way off topic but the folks on this forum are the most helpful bunch of guys I have ever come across. Anyway, I have been trying to get on the Arbor Day site for a week now with no success. So I am going to throw out a few questions if anyone has an oppinion. 1) Planted 20 fruit trees 2 years ago, most died the first year, most replacements died too. We have checked the ph - needs some adjustment. Question, would you plant the new tree in the same hole or dig a new one? #2)Arbor day says NOT to add soil amendment like starter and so on, Question, what do you think of 3 year-old cow manure in the hole with the roots. #3) I am in NW MO, can you grow Olive trees around here?
Thanks for any input!

 

[Charles Krammin]

From a Bs degree and 60 some years intrest in planting trees. I have 100 blueberrys, 100 wine grape and currently planting pinenuts. All your questions are meaningless on survival of "planting fruit trees.", for the following reasons.
1.You need a site for fruit, especially frost protection. My site is 6 miles inland from Lake Michigan. lake Michigan provides an "air cinditioning effect-less cold killing frost in spring-extended warming of freeze in fall. Kiliing frost protection is also based on having the highest spot on your farm (site) so the frost "flows" away from the fruit site, like water flowing down hill. I can not think af any site in MO that meets the above, unless it is a specific location tempermanent.
2. On transplanting fruit trees it is necessary to prune back the tops so the roots can support the new growth, during the time of the stress of transplanting.
3. All new "Drawf trees" planting scion stock are grafted onto drawfing type roots stock and the "union" requires specific height and depth planting in relation to this "union"
4. Ph doesnot effect survial. Rotted manure provides to much nitrogen and to much early growth and late growth and trees cannot "Harden-off" for winter survival.
conclusions- buy your apples from Michigan- "period"
OT Charles Krammin sw MI site "Fennville Michigan" near Vacation town "Saugatuck MI"

 

[pikewi]

I went through the same thing with apple trees here. I ended up digging up about a 4 foot square for each tree about 2' deep. Tossed the sod and mixed the remaing soil w/rotted manure and lime and planted them in that. That was 6 years ago and I am now getting nice apples from them.(the ones the deer didn't destroy). I top dress the ground around the trees every year and spray them for bugs, end rot etc. diligently.

Apples give me gas.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Krammin, you must be with the chamber of commerce heh?

 

[dahermit]

It also depends on it the new trees are "bare root" or come with a ball of dirt around the roots. Bare root trees cannot stand the shock of added strong fertilizer the first year. The combined stress of being transplanted and fetilized will kill them.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Since these are bareroot trees from a nursey in MI, do you suppose the dirt here is just too fertile for them? Perhaps I should incorporate some clay into the soil to make them feel more at home.

 

[DanH01]

Korn....Since they are bare root I"d get some containers w/drainholes and line them with burlap or something similar. Put several inches of Potting soil in"em. Find the least fertlized soil ya can. Your local supply should have a number of different brands with different additives. Put the trees in and fill er up. Stake"em if ya have to and keepum watered and in the sun if possible. Let stand a few weeks. Trees take awhile to get over the shock and the soil should promote root growth which will help with the shock. If ya want your local supply shack should have a plant food spray product to help promote leaf growth during this transition period. After a few weeks if they are still alive plant"um burlap and all. It helps to have full rootballs on them but if they come bare then ya should make your own.

Can"t say that any of my fingers are green like Charles"s and he gave some excellent advice. Location is everything. I"ve planted apple, pear, peach, cherry, grape, blue and blackberry. Some were bare some had rootballs. I used the above procedure and nearly all have survived and made me a fruit picker. I live in what they call the Knobs section of Kentucky where the soil type goes from rich soil to sandy loam to red clay to nothing but rock all within a short distance. good luck....dan

ps. if your worried about Ph and acidic content. First find out from the nursery what the trees grow best in, collect some samples and take to the local AG office and adjust your ground accordingly before planting. Just don't fertilize before the new tress have taken root.

 

[Charles Krammin]

Not a C of C,
I was born on the fruit farm, fruit, grain, cows, pigs, pine trees at 9. and fell in love with unick site of location, soil, slope and N's and hope to return and rebuild it to its great potential. Only problems, County built bridge over Kalamazoo River, alnost making it a highway (Can't slide 1/2 mile anymore) and noise,72 age showing on joints. Good new for a roadside fruit stand, Location, location, location.
Charles Krammin SW MI