painting prep?

[TimWafer]

I am reaching the stage in my Farmall H restoration to start thinking about paint. I’ve been through the archives and seen a lot of controversy about paint preparation. I'd like to hear opinions on phosphoric acid and primers. I’m pretty much doing a complete disassembly and sandblasting to bare metal of everything.
I would like to be able to put something on immediately. It will be impractical to epoxy prime every little part & bolt after sandblasting. I could do them in small batches when I have enough ready. My other thought is rattle cans for the small parts or I could put on phosphoric acid till I get enough to epoxy prime. Also how long can the epoxy primer go before applying paint?
www.timwafer.com

 

[Anonymous-0]

My thoughts on your question: I would avoid the Acid and would Rattle Can with compatible to your Paint choice,Primer.It's quick and going the right direction with your plans. I do this all the time,by the way I enjoyed touring your Web Site. JC

 

[Anonymous-0]

Just my opinion and it's free. You are going to put a lot of work into it so don't buy cheap paint. Use an automotive finish with hardener so that if in the future you want to touch up a spot you won't have bubbling and crazing of the old crap finish underneath. Primer is important from the standpoint that it will find any areas that are not able to accept the final finish such as grease, oil, silicone, wax or underlying paint that reacts to the new finish. You can however get away without it on previously painted surfaces if you are willing to spot prime bare areas and find out the hard way about incompatible surfaces. Paint the subassemblies as a unit with all the bolts in place and tightened then assemble the fenders, hoods, wheels, and seat, etc. and touch up any bolt heads that will rust with a brush.

Haven't done this kind of work for 45 years so I certainly am not an expert on the new products that are available to give a very nice finish with little experience. The new stuff does hold up to weather very well with little or no maintenance

 

[El Toro]

I would do as JC recommended on using a good grade of automotive paint with hardener. I have used acrylic enamel with hardener for years, but PPG has discontinued this paint. I used their Omni single stage with hardener and was well satisfied with it. There's a man in Ohio who's son paints tractors for dealers in the area and he uses Martin Senour's Crossfire paint. They look like new tractors. Hal
PS: Here's a pic of one of his tractors.

 

[El Toro]

Let me try that picture again. Hal

 

[RandyB(MI)]

Forget the acids etc. Epoxy prime all. It will last and be ready for paint/body work any time you are. If it goes past 10 days on any brand epoxy all you have to do is scotchbrite it a little and re-coat with epoxy an hour-10 days before paint. Epoxy first will buy you all the time you need to do the rest of the prep. Also, unless you live in a real humid area , you can blast for a week before you have to prime. I have had some small items go two weeks without rust. Just depends on your conditions.

 

[El Toro]

I used some left over acid primer from where I worked on my wheel weights over 30 years ago. It had to used that evening or be discarded. The primer is blue in color they still look good with just primer. The Air Force use that on airplanes. Hal