Pipe plug

[tomturkey]

I have a drain pug on a Farmall H that drains the transmission. The previous owner/owners have this pipe plug all rounded off and knarled up. I tried squaring it up a bit with a die grinder to no avail. It sits in a very inaccesable space, can't get a good hold on it with any thing. Normally I would put the heat to something stuck, but with a couple gallons of gear oi right behind it I'm a bit concerned about a fire. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.........gobble

 

[MJMJ]

Weld a nut to it?

 

[tomturkey]

Weld a nut to it?

Thank you, I may try that. gobble

 

[wore out]

Weld a nut to it?

Welding a nut to a cast iron plug covered in oil isn't likely to be successful, but the heat from the attempt MAY break the plug loose.

Be aware that SOME cast iron pipe plugs MAY have a hollow into the square part from the backside you could "burn into" while welding dumping oil, so keep out of the way "just in case".

Personally, I'd quickly heat up the plug with a torch, as long as it's covered in oil and no solvents/gas/diesel fuel have been used.

Proceed AT YOUR OWN RISK, should you decide to try this.

 

[tomturkey]

Welding a nut to a cast iron plug covered in oil isn't likely to be successful, but the heat from the attempt MAY break the plug loose.

Be aware that SOME cast iron pipe plugs MAY have a hollow into the square part from the backside you could "burn into" while welding dumping oil, so keep out of the way "just in case".

Personally, I'd quickly heat up the plug with a torch, as long as it's covered in oil and no solvents/gas/diesel fuel have been used.

Proceed AT YOUR OWN RISK, should you decide to try this.

I have the tractor split, I elevated the transmission end and opened the drain at the rear of the differential. Am hoping all from the tranny will drain down to differential and out. I will feel abit better about heating it up if I don't have oi backing it up. Thanks for your input. gobble

 

[JOCCO]

I have a drain pug on a Farmall H that drains the transmission. The previous owner/owners have this pipe plug all rounded off and knarled up. I tried squaring it up a bit with a die grinder to no avail. It sits in a very inaccesable space, can't get a good hold on it with any thing. Normally I would put the heat to something stuck, but with a couple gallons of gear oi right behind it I'm a bit concerned about a fire. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.........gobble

Tom I have run into this pipe plug one before. Treat it like a broken bolt, heat, pipe wrenches female extractor sets. After they all fail get real familiar with drilling and easy outs. Re tap it and use never seize. Do some research as there are many modern easy outs, and they are not cheap.

 

[MJMJ]

Welding a nut to a cast iron plug covered in oil isn't likely to be successful, but the heat from the attempt MAY break the plug loose.

Be aware that SOME cast iron pipe plugs MAY have a hollow into the square part from the backside you could "burn into" while welding dumping oil, so keep out of the way "just in case".

Personally, I'd quickly heat up the plug with a torch, as long as it's covered in oil and no solvents/gas/diesel fuel have been used.

Proceed AT YOUR OWN RISK, should you decide to try this.

I didn’t think about the plug being cast, you’re right.

 

[DaveBN]

If your talking about the plug at the bottom front of the transmission case it won't all drain out the rear plug. You'll have a pint or more left in there.
Dave

 

[T.R.K.]

I had that problem with a Moline once, After drilling through the plug and twisting on 'Easy-Outs' to the point I thought they could break, I drilled a bit larger and tapped the existing plug for a smaller pipe plug. I wouldn't recommend a brass replaement, they can seize seriously too and they round really easily. (Had that problem in an aluminum block Kohler once.)

I recall a similar problem in a cast radiator tank, I drilled through the plug with my battery drill. I reasoned that if the drill was suddenly covered with coolant, it wouldn't shock me badly with only 14volts DC.

 

[bc]

I assume you have tried a hammer and chisel. Somewhere a chisel should get a bite on it. Go in straight to make a cut before trying to turn it.

 

[Charles in Aus.]

I apply intense heat really precisely by using a stick welder . A fat electrode and medium amps , let the electrode stick and leave it there as long as you dare .

 

[MarkB_MI]

I have a drain pug on a Farmall H that drains the transmission. The previous owner/owners have this pipe plug all rounded off and knarled up. I tried squaring it up a bit with a die grinder to no avail. It sits in a very inaccesable space, can't get a good hold on it with any thing. Normally I would put the heat to something stuck, but with a couple gallons of gear oi right behind it I'm a bit concerned about a fire. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.........gobble

Heat will help. Apply heat to the plug, not the casting, as there's no way to get the casting hot enough loosen up. I'd heat the plug with an acetylene torch until it starts to glow cherry red, then attempt to remove the plug with a vise grip or wrench.

 

[showcrop]

Due to the ability of any liquid to conduct heat, you would find it very difficult to get the plug hot enough to catch oil behind it on fire. You need to be observant however of any flammable liquids outside of the housing.

 

[Geo-TH,In]

I have a drain pug on a Farmall H that drains the transmission. The previous owner/owners have this pipe plug all rounded off and knarled up. I tried squaring it up a bit with a die grinder to no avail. It sits in a very inaccesable space, can't get a good hold on it with any thing. Normally I would put the heat to something stuck, but with a couple gallons of gear oi right behind it I'm a bit concerned about a fire. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.........gobble

When I have stubborn nuts I will use a chisel and a hammer to attempt to back it out.
Good luck,

 

[MarkB_MI]

FWIW, if that plug has been stuck for many years, it's probably water behind it rather than oil.

 

[tomturkey]

Dave is correct, about a pint still in the bottom of the tranny. I will suck it out with my brake fluid extractor and then will put the flame to it Drill, chisels, e-z outs whatever it take, I will not leave that mess for another happy tractor owner. gobble btw....thank each one of you for your wisdom and being willing to share.

 

[Janicholson]

Dave is correct, about a pint still in the bottom of the tranny. I will suck it out with my brake fluid extractor and then will put the flame to it Drill, chisels, e-z outs whatever it take, I will not leave that mess for another happy tractor owner. gobble btw....thank each one of you for your wisdom and being willing to share.

Be sure to substantially clean the oil out of the brake fluid tools. Any oil it those will ruin brake systems they are used on. Both expensive and dangerous. Jim

 

[teddy52food]

I would forget about trying an easy out. They only work if it comes out easy.

 

[tomturkey]

Be sure to substantially clean the oil out of the brake fluid tools. Any oil it those will ruin brake systems they are used on. Both expensive and dangerous. Jim

I never reuse brake fluid that I vacuum out when bleeding the brakes". It is just not that expensive to always refill the reservoir with new. IMHO. but thanks, I do clean it with brake clean and air.

 

[tomturkey]

I would forget about trying an easy out. They only work if it comes out easy.

most of my e-z out tries were unsuccessful. thanks for the reminder gobble