Pipeline Welder

Mokicker

Member
Picked up an old SA 200 couple years ago at an auction and it welded good at the time. Willies engine was sucking oil, so I rebuilt it in my spare time. Engine runs good now; but, welder only generates a light spark at any setting:Rebuilt engine in frame and never touched generator. Removed rear shroud and cleaned out a host of mud-daube nest and all brushes look good. Any ideas on the weak welding spark?
 
Look in the archives on here(SA 200) or on the welding web. Common problem for an SA 200 that's been sitting. You have to flash the generator to get it welding properly again. Using a commutator stone is a good idea too.
 
I have heard the term flashing before but never knew what or how to do it. It might be something I will need to do to my welder the next time I use it since it has say for a few years
 
Good thing I have this saved. :lol:

Flashing the exciter field consists of passing current through the fields using an external source of 6 to 125 volts of DC power from a storage battery or DC generator. If using a DC generator, keep the generator turned off except when actually applying the flashing current. To flash the fields:

Turn the welder off. Raise one exciter brush off the commutator.
On Lincoln welders, attach the positive lead from the external DC source to the right hand brush holder.
Carefully holding an insulated section of the negative lead from the DC source, touch its lug or clamp to the left hand brush holder for five seconds. Pull it away quickly to minimize arcing.
Remove the lead from the right hand brush holder, replace the brush on the commutator, start the welder and the generator voltage should build up.

There are two schools of thought on how to do this, here is the second way.

At the bullet nose of the machine, under the cap you have 2 exciter brushes, one on each side of the exciter armature.
Each brush has a screw stud that the pigtail of the brush connects to.
The right hand brush (black wire) is positive
The left hand brush (red wire) is negative

With a automotive or lawnmower battery AND THE MACHINE ****NOT**** RUNNING, connect the positive cable from the battery to the positive (right hand) brush screw stud. Attach the negative cable from the battery to the negative screw stud of the brush (left hand)
 
Lincoln SA-200 used a Continental , Hobart used Willys power..I had both..Both excellent machines..On the Hobarts when it wouldn't weld properly , I would have to free-up the exiter brushes..They rust into the brush holders and not make contact with the armature commutator as they wore down..
 
Try this method of flashing.
Plug your electric drill into the 110V socket.
If it's reversible, it must be set to forward.
Start the SA200. Hold the drill trigger and
turn the chuck backwards--- be ready for it to spin
up as soon as voltage is induced into the motor windings. Don't get your fingers injured by the chuck. Let us know how it turns out.
 
(quoted from post at 20:23:03 03/30/11) Try this method of flashing.
Plug your electric drill into the 110V socket.
If it's reversible, it must be set to forward.
Start the SA200. Hold the drill trigger and
turn the chuck backwards--- be ready for it to spin
up as soon as voltage is induced into the motor windings. Don't get your fingers injured by the chuck. Let us know how it turns out.

Bob,
It's my understanding that the electric drill "can not" be a variable speed. And I don't believe it needs to be in reverse or which way you need to turn the chuck. If someone could provide the facts about this it would be great.

I have a 4000 watt belt driven generator. The manuel says to "flash it" use a 1-1/2 to 6 volt battery. I've successfully used a AAA battery a couple of times. Next time I'm going to try the drill motor to see if it works.

Dusty
 

Dusty you best not use a variable speed tool in a Lincoln SA-200. The 120-volt receptacle is DC only!
I understand the SA-250's have a AC receptacle. But I can't say I've ever been around a SA-250, this is only what I've read.
 
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