Please help!! Ford 800 rear main

Bandit7

Member
I’m trying to help my dad, he’s had My papaws 1963 ford 800 gas tractor apart 4-5 times and can’t keep it from leaking oil out of the rear main, He’s tried the rubber and rope seal he’s tried taking one out he’s tried silicone on the side holes and everything. Every time it starts back leaking bad. I feel bad for him as this was his dad’s tractor and he keeps trying and trying but nothing is fixing it. Any help is very much appreciated!! Local Ford dealer doesn’t know
 
You may be aware of this error in installing, I don’t know ,but here is the videos of a very similar leak . Hope this helps .
I will show him this again. He tried this the last time and it still leaked, Hopefully he can figure it out one guy recommended maybe a Speedi-sleeve I’ve looked on here and can’t find one I’ll keep looking! Thanks
 
I’m trying to help my dad, he’s had My papaws 1963 ford 800 gas tractor apart 4-5 times and can’t keep it from leaking oil out of the rear main, He’s tried the rubber and rope seal he’s tried taking one out he’s tried silicone on the side holes and everything. Every time it starts back leaking bad. I feel bad for him as this was his dad’s tractor and he keeps trying and trying but nothing is fixing it. Any help is very much appreciated!! Local Ford dealer doesn’t know

The rear main bearing cap has two grooves next to the babbit bearing. The outer groove is the seal groove, the inner groove is an oil lubrication groove and lubricates the babbit bearing, nothing goes in the inner groove.
Lost wrench
 
The rear main bearing cap has two grooves next to the babbit bearing. The outer groove is the seal groove, the inner groove is an oil lubrication groove and lubricates the babbit bearing, nothing goes in the inner groove.
Lost wrench
Hey lost wrench m, He only used the seal in the outer groove the last time and it’s still leaking
 
I speedy sleeve will not work as the rear crank flange is much bigger than the seal surface.
I have not had trouble with the rubber type the lip goes toward the front and I shove a little ultra gray in the side grooves before I install the wedge seals and pins.
 
I speedy sleeve will not work as the rear crank flange is much bigger than the seal surface.
I have not had trouble with the rubber type the lip goes toward the front and I shove a little ultra gray in the side grooves before I install the wedge seals and pins.
My wedge seals was just a hard like rubber that goes up in there but there where no pins?
 
My wedge seals was just a hard like rubber that goes up in there but there where no pins?
Yes,not all wedges have the pins,thet last one i did had them.But I found the main bearing cap will leak between it and the block without pushing some sealant in before shoving the wedges in.
 
Yes,not all wedges have the pins,thet last one i did had them.But I found the main bearing cap will leak between it and the block without pushing some sealant in before shoving the wedges in
Yes,not all wedges have the pins,thet last one i did had them.But I found the main bearing cap will leak between it and the block without pushing some sealant in before shoving the wedges in.
he tried that the last time the sealant was called “the right stuff” I think? Local machine shop recommended it but I will tell him to try ultra grey. How much do you use on each seal?
 
You are not alone!! There are plenty of threads here about problems with these seals. I have done a few and there are too many ways to go wrong to try to steer you right when we can't even figure out how you were doing it. I, like lost wrench did catch that he tried putting a seal in each groove. I suggest you view the You tube video by Chicken House Mechanic.
 
You are not alone!! There are plenty of threads here about problems with these seals. I have done a few and there are too many ways to go wrong to try to steer you right when we can't even figure out how you were doing it. I, like lost wrench did catch that he tried putting a seal in each groove. I suggest you view the You tube video by Chicken House Mechanic.
The crazy part is when he pulled it apart the first time it had a rope seal in front groove and rubber seal in rear, Maybe not from the factory but it never leaked before the rehaul, it’s been a struggle hopefully he can get it right this go around we are gonna try the same deal that chicken house uses
 
No warranty on this job. His tractor is kin to a ford FE the rear seal is zackly the same. I will post some links.


 
Is he soaking the seals for a couple hours before installation? A dry rope seals may overheat and glaze before the oil gets to it. ( if he is indeed using a rope).

I prefer a rope on an iffy crank because a lip seal needs a little more accuracy.
 
Is he soaking the seals for a couple hours before installation? A dry rope seals may overheat and glaze before the oil gets to it. ( if he is indeed using a rope).

I prefer a rope on an iffy crank because a lip seal needs a little more accuracy.
He did not. I’ll let him know
 
No warranty on this job. His tractor is kin to a ford FE the rear seal is zackly the same. I will post some links.


Thank you. Hoping he can figure this out! He don’t have the money to buy another tractor and I can see it’s really bothered him. I think he’s going to try the bs 6141-3 seal kit that was in the video and use the victor reinz rtv for the sides and not use the pencil type seals?
 
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