Please steer me in the right direction

[Bill Radford]

I have a 1960 Ford 641 that is very nearly perfect. However, there is this one litttle matter of the steering box.
At some time, someone welded the steering arm to the sector gear on the right side. It still steers well, but the box leaks. Although I filled the box with cornhead grease, it still seeps oil and an occasional blob of grease around the steering arms.
My question: would it be better to spring for a new set of sector gears and steering arm and rebuild the box or get a steering box with arms from this site. If I rebuild, i"ll have to cut the steering arm off of the right side and replace the right sector at a minimum. By the time I buy a set of sector gears and the steering arms, I"m in this thing for $400.00. A complete box with arms is $640.00 shipped.However, problem is solved.
Choices: Ignore and wipe off the grease until the steering gets bad?
Rebuild ?
New steering box?
This is a really nice tractor and as far as I"m concerned there are no plans to get rid of it.

 

[Greg1959]

Ignore and wipe off the grease until the steering gets bad.

 

[souNdguy]

if it's leaking cornhead grease, a 0ep grease.. the sector seals must be totally gone.

for a worker? I'd be tempted to keep topping it off with #2 till it stopped leaking, and / or needed rebuilt.. assuming it has no thrust paly or backlash.

now.. if you are just wanting to go ahead and premtively fix it.. or it DOES have play.. i'd take a die grinder , hack saw blade, cold chissle, etc, and cut a line down the top, and if needed, 2 cuts in a 60' arc across the top .. it's likely the arms is only welded at the face.. it should split and come off pretty easilly off that hard gear.. and I'd think that gear will dress with a triangle file. I've certaintly rescued boxes that had an arm tack welded on.

if the threads are welded on bas saving, then you weld them up and rethread them. BTDT on front axles and similar shafts with threads.. I prefer that vs undersizing and retapping next smaller set.

new arms are east to come by .. new or surplus from someone like jim.ut... and again.. I'd be surprised if you could not save the sector shaft.

usually the arm id will wear and the arm will go onto the shaft too far and bind, that's why most people weld them. occasionally thru lots of use and no maint, the shaft od and splines will wear down and do the same. what I have done is clean the shaft splines with a triangle file, thenget an arm that's good and crisp.. heat the open face with a rose bud and beat on the arm at the hole with a sledge and anvil. do both sides. this shrinks the id of the hole.. if you need more shrinkage, then grind down an arc across the top of the arm.. grind a good bit.. 3/16 to 1/4", and then weld beads across that top strap of the arm.. it will shrink the id QUITE a bit.. so i reccomend only grinding 1/8 to 3/16 off and then welding one pass across the op coverage and then check fit.

I did this to the 2000 steering box I saved. box was almost 100% clapped out.. 1 bad sector, bad ballnut.. thrust bearins gone.. etc..e tc.. took a good few hours to get it knocked into shape. right arm fits fine now.. box is tight and smooth as a new one..

here's a pic of that repaired steering arm. you can see the weld where I shrunk the ID.. but it don't look bad. it also doesn't fall all the way into the housing where you can't tightent he nut onthe arm...

soundguy

 

[Bill Radford]

There is no thread showing..the face of the arm is flat as if the shaft had been broken or ground off. I can guarantee we are at least going to need a sector gear. There is no thread to work with. How big a deal to change the sectors and get the seals etc for the steering arms?

 

[Bill Radford]

Here is a picture of the steering arm I apologize that it is not a close up, but I think you can see the steering arm and what I'm talking about.
Thanks for your help. I think I'll ignore and wipe a while.

 

[Bill Radford]

sorry. here is picture

 

[souNdguy]

no big deal to pull the box column top, remove side covers, and slip sectro gears and ballnut/worm assy out leaving a hollow box with some busings, seals and raceway in it.. most of the work is getting the dash panel and stering wheel off.

post a pic of the sector arm face.

I bet an enterprising fellow could drill that sector arm, and tap it for a stud.. I know I;d try.. or drill it and weld a stud in.. even easier.. don't have to have a bottoming tap for that....

soundguy

 

[Bill Radford]

i'll post pix when I figure this out.. used advanced posting tools, no pix. Sorry

 

[Bill Radford]

i'll post pix when I figure this out.. used advanced posting tools, no pix. Sorry

 

[john_Bud]

If a replacement box is $640, I"d think hard about going for a PS rig. Either a vintage one from the bone yard or a new one from the aftermarket.

 

[Tracy Brown]

I have an 801 Ford diesel parts tractor that had a bad engine with this part still on it. If an 801 unit will work, I"ll take $125.

 

[Dean]

If it bothers you, buy a used steering box and rebuild it at your leisure before swapping it in at a future date.

Dean

 

[souNdguy]

if tracy brown's box on his 801 is tight.. that's a bang up price, if you decide to actually buy an entire box.

if not i might

 

[Anonymous-0]

Tracy does your 801 diesel have a good block??? Jim in FL --No-Advertising-in-Forums

 

[Bill Radford]

see my pm to you

 

[Tracy Brown]

No. The block is bad.