plow set up confusion

[questadg]

I spent some time trying to learn the correct way to set up my plow. There is some excellent information and advice and I appreciate that very much. However, I have read at least one post suggesting that the left side of the tractor be driven up on a 6 to 8 inch block to set the plow. On another one, the person suggests that the right side of the tractor be driven up on a 6 to 8 inch block. Both are for right-hand plows which is what I have. Can anyone help clear this up?

 

[dhamps10]

All wheels that stay on the land, not in the furrow, including front.
Dennis

 

[Adirondack case guy]

For get the block under any tire. Make a pass with your plow. Once you have an open furrow, drive your R side of thr tractor into the furrow with the plow down and adjust it level from front to back and L-R by eye. Then plow forward, and make small adjustments to the top link turnbuckel and the RH lift link untill all all the laied furrows are even.
You didn't mention tire width, but lay a 2x4 along the landside of the first bottom up to the rear tire of the tractor. when you measure from it to the inside edge of the tire it should equal the bottom width, 12, 14" etc. If not the tread width should be changed or if minimal diff. you may be able to shift the draft bar laterally. If you don't have a manual for the plow, get one, and read it.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Its the left side that needs to be on the block. someone might have gotten his r's and l's mixed up. Happens to me every time I go up an elevator!

 

[maxwell99]

once you get the plow set and running like you want it to work then do as I did:
______________________
once I got the old ferg plow working pretty good,

i set it down on my concrete pad and took measurements of top link, L/R heights.

Then wrote the numbers down with (never come off marker) on the old plow frame.

So now, each time it put the plow on, just pull it up to the pad, set it down, get my trusty tape measures out and set all my measurements.

Each time i plow, i am in the 99% adjustment range, which is plenty good enough for me.

This system will work for years, unless you get a new tractor or plow.

Be sure to buy a top quality marker or your time will be wasted.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Exactly what I do, with mine. I use a welder's or junkyard ballwriter marker, that writes with paint, not ink. Easy to find at farm supply stores, welders supply stores, or harbor freight.

 

[JDseller]

I have done this many times on a new to me tractors or sets of plows. You need to put the LEFT tires(front and back) up on blocks half the thickness of your plow bottoms width. Example 14 inch plow would need 7 inch blocks. This is the left as you face forward on the tractor seat. Then adjust your plow to be level on the floor. Front to back and side to side. This will get you close enough to start.

On wheel spacing I usually center the plow on the three point hitch. Then using a board as a straight edge I project the side of the first plow bottom to the front so you can measure the spacing to the inside of the rear tire. There you need the width to match your plow width. Then I always center the wheels on the draw bar. So if you move one then move the other side so it is centered. Then set the front axle width on a wide front end tractor to match the rear tread setting. I have seen guys move just the back and wonder why the plow would not work. They would have the tractor running sideways down the plow furrow.

If you have an operators manual for your plow it will have the wheel tread you need in the book.

 

[Allan in NE]

Don't know what you're working on, but every hitch under the sun has some sort of a provision for either 'rigid' or 'float' on the lift arms.

For use with a mounted plow, the hitch needs to be set in the float position.

This way, the hitch itself automatically adjusts for the laterial "tilt" angle difference between the tractor and the plow.

Allan