Plowing problems...

[digii3]

I am having some problems with plowing here and hope someone can help. I have never farmed before and am starting with a 1951 Farmall M and a pull type plow. The idea is to plow the land, then disc, then plant. I am plowing the parameter first, then so inside and start to plow in rows inside the parameter. So far, 60 percent of the parameter has been plowed. The plow is a 3-bottom plow (according the the tractor manual, the M should be able to handle this). I am using a 2 way hydraulic system connected to the belly tank. The location is Crown Point, Indiana and the soil condition is moist (perfect for tree pulling, BTW). Here are my problems...

1. The tractor tires keep loosing traction. This even occurs in low rpm at first speed when attempting to plow,

2. The hydraulic connection keep leaking when I try to raise it more eventhough the connection is tight. Is it suppose to do this when pressure is high (too high)?

I figure the land is too wet, is this a good assumption? Or could my tractor be too light, the the manual says it is designed for up to a 3 bottom plow. I have no means to see what is going on with the hydraulic link keep bursting hydraulic fluid (link at the hydraulic cylinder that is not quick connect). The tractor itself seemed to run fine without plowing and can raise and lower my sickle mower fine and even the plow, until the line starts leaking. Any help is appreciated...

 

[E.B. Haymakin']

Hopefully Hugh, Janicholson, or Allan Neb will help with hydraulic problems as I am not familiar with the IH M"s. If the rears are not weighted I suspect that is the reason for the wheel spin. I don"t run weights on my tractors down here in the deep south, I run water for ballast in the rears. I can tell you it aids traction greatly. If you don"t have any this site may be a great place to locate them. Or try Nebraska Cowman-

 

[Michael Soldan]

You are using the hydraulics to raise the plow out of the ground instead of the mechanical plow lift of the plow wheel. You should still be able to adjust the plow with the levers for depth as well as adjusting the rear wheel on the plow. It sounds like you may be plowing too deep and making the tractor pull hard and lose traction, if not you may simply have to wait for dryer conditions. The plow once in the ground should be level lengthways and across the top of the frame from side to side,if not you need to work the levers and get it level. Adjustment of the plow is the most important thing in making it plow with ease and turning the furrow over properly. That'd be my first approach to the problem.

 

[Rusty wheel]

You shouldn't have to plow more than 7 inches deep. I think, in general, if you can make a mud ball, it is too wet to plow. A wheel weight on the land wheel of the tractor would be a big help with slippage. If the plow isn't adjusted right and it keeps trying to go deeper, it will pull hard. Are the shears good and sharp? That'll help too. 3-14s is right for your tractor. 3-16s might be a bit much for the tractor if the ground is hard.........rw

 

[paul]

Dad had 400 lbs of weight on the land wheel (left one) to plow with 3-16 on his Ollie 88 - similar setup to what you have. Then he put the rock box on that side of the tractor and added more weight.......

What shape are the tire treads on your tractor? Worn down to slicks, or good tread?

Sounds like the ground is a little wet to plow.

How deep are you putting the plow? Should be plowing 1/2 the depth of a plow bottom - your 14 inch plow bottoms should be going about 7 inches deep.

Which wheel is spinning on you? Typically the one on land (left) if it is wet or you don't have enough weight on the tractor. You could have the plow real off-center & only pulling with one tire, but that is not normal for a 3-bottom plow.


Hyd: Um, belly pump is only a one-way isn't it, you said you were runinng a 2-way cyl????

Maybe explain the hyds a little better, I'm not clear on what the problem is.

--->Paul

 

[digii3]

The pics are in the link below with a little explanation. Hope this helps.
Untitled URL Link

 

[kyplowboy]

Not for sure where crown point is but I am in west KY so I know you are north of me. Your ground is more than likely too wet. Unless you have had alot more sun, wind, and 70 degree days than we have had here you are not going to be able to plow much. When the ground dries out you may need to add a good bit of weight to an M to make it pull 3 plows well. (2 in clay ground was all ours wanted when I was a kid.)

Don't know about the hydrolics.

Good luck and wait for some sun.

Dave

 

[super99]

Top 2nd picture looks like a flare fitting going into a pipe thread, won't work. Get a street L, or a 90 and short nipple, wrap threads with teflon tape. You should have pioneer hydraulic quick coulpers in the hose between tractor and cylinder. Chris

 

[Hugh MacKay]

digii: Sounds like it's too wet to plow just yet. Your not that far south of me, and with the amount of winter we've had, your probably 3 weeks early.

You hydraulic leaks are probably worn quick couplers. New ones will cure that.

 

[El Toro]

It's still wet here in MD and more rain coming.
If ground is clinging to your tractor tires and to the plow's moldboards you need to wait until it dries off. You will end up with a lot hard clumps plowing too wet. The Amish in PA may be plowing, but their fields are mostly hilly and have good drainage. Hal

 

[Anonymous-0]

You dont have any neighbors that you have made friends with that farm. Sounds like you are going to need tons of advise and i sure would find someone to help with the settings of the plow. As far as plowing early its hard to do it too early as it needs to cure before working down. You just dont work freshly plowed dirt. The M should take the plow in 3rd wide open throttle. Again find some local help he can do you a big favor look for someone who has lived there for yrs and yrs.

 

[digii3]

I have added a pic of the tractor connected to the plow. The wheels are visible and some (maybe a lot) of soil sticks to the wheels. I will add result of the plow and wheel marks, if any tonight.
5 picts and shor description. More pict coming soon

 

[Rootsy]

looks like you have a 2 way valve or "christmas tree" on the belly pump. I assume you are speaking of the break away connectors leaking (hose couplers that connect tractor to plow). If that is the case make sure that the O-rings inside of the female coupler are present and not full of dirt or have been damaged. Also make sure that the tip is compatible with the coupler.

I run 450 lbs / side of rear wheel weight on my M with my #70 3-16. Even with brand new 15.5-38 Firestones aired down to about 12 psi the #70 can get some serious slippage to occur on the tractor, especially if I get the plow in too deep. This occurs when the stop on the IH cylinder slips on me...

 

[IaGary]

Your problem with Hydraulic leaks are mixing and matching of thread sizes.

Those elbows you are useing are designed to fit where there is a machined groove for the oring to rest in.

And the other end of the elbow is for JIC fittings not pipe thread.

If you want an elbow do as others have suugested and use a plain pipe elbow that will fit your hose and the cylinder.

By the pictures you have shown us I see your tractor is sinking in the sod. That is to wet to plow.

Gary

 

[steveormary]

It does look like it is too wet to be working the fields. 2nd or 3rd gear can be used for plowing depending on soil conditions. We had wheel weights on our SM.

You need some one to help you with setting up the plow and the tractor as they have to be in proper alignment.

Good luck and have fun.
steveormary

 

[LA in Wi.]

Good gosh, man, you are plowing ground that is too wet. I can see that by the amount of wet soil on the tractor front wheels, the left plow wheel and the track made by the left rear of the tractor. The field looks like sod from last year, or grass?? All those tires should be dry except for the right rear on the tractor, the right and rear plow tires. I"ll bet as that left rear squeezes on the soil you could almost see moisture squirting out. Based on those guys who live in your area, they are right....wait 2-3 weeks. If you have heavy black soil (sure looks black) and you work it wet, you will pay all season long for that sin. It"s only March...what"s your hurry?

 

[LeRoy DeLong]

When plowing a field, most people would plow the interior of the field first which gives you smooth ground to turn around on each end and then plow off the ends. In the years you are turning the soil in near the edge of the field, you can leave enough on each side to match the ends and then just go completely around the field to finish.

 

[Kansas Cockshutt]

Probably still thawing better let it dry out a little bit or else you will have quite a disking job ahead of you...

Your tree pulling is... well, a little dangerous. Your best bet is hitch a bit lower on the tree, and run your strap over a large rim next to the tree so the force is applied upwards on the tree, not right back at you.

 

[Don L C]

If he is using hydraulic oil, that would add to his leaking problem......the M uses 30w engine oil in the belly pump.......

 

[Hugh MacKay]

Don: I didn't see his hydraulic plumbing, however from Gary's description, I suspect one couldn't pump molasses without it leaking 10th Jan. in Alaska.

 

[Anonymous-0]

Tree pullin with that setup is a little on the dangerous side. If you want to avoid a nasty "strap rash" on the back of your neck, throw your jacket or a horse blanket, over the strap, once you snug it up and begin to pull. Should anything break, the weight of the jacket or blanket will keep the busted end from hitting you in the back of the head. Oh, and the others are right, put the pull point as low on the tree and the tractor as you can, and you're plowing too wet.

 

[digii3]

30 weight oil was used... I"ll have to find the proper fitting then...

 

[digii3]

30 weight oil was used... I"ll have to find the proper fitting then...