plowing with Ford 5000

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Last spring I tried using my 5000 to plow some new garden plots. The plow would not sink in more than about 4 inches even with proper angle adjustments. The plow is in really good shape. I'm assuming I need to adjust some of the 3point controls differently, but I didn't have any luck so far. Any help would be appreciated!
 
Make sure the plowshares are not worn out.If you don"t know how to set the plow up ask some farmer who does know.If the shares are worn and the ground is hard you will have trouble getting the plow to perform.
 
If the plough is in good order, shorten the top link slightly to give the plough pitch, check the lift rods on the tractor are adjusted to allow the rockshaft not to bottom out, are the lift rods in the correct holes in the lower links? If using draft control in hard going move the top link to a lower hole at the tractor end,this reduces the forces acting on the draft control, but remember the top link should always slope down from the plough to the tractor. If the ground is hard then the discs on the plough may hold it out, raise them, if the adjustment is available move the discs rearward, this gives the ploughshares a chance to burst the soil ahead of the discs. Remember carry out one adjustment at a time, if it don't work put it back where it was and try somthing else.
 
Check the lift geometry based on where it connects tot he plow.. with lift arms all the way down are you sure the plow can go as deep as you want ( IE.. is the plow sized for the 5000? )

soundguy
 
Thanks for the ideas. The plow is NOT sized for the tractor, but I was told by some older farmers and relatives that it should still work., but my relatives and everyone I know around here were either JD, Case, or IH guys--no Ford people to talk to. I only have a 2 bottom moldboard plow (Ferguson-Sherman manufactured in Dearborn). The plowshares are in good shape (I was told excellent shape). The lift arms are free to drop another 12-15 inches (I verified this by backing up over a ditch and letting the plow down). Our soil is probably harder than most, so that makes it tougher. We've tried various angle adjustments and I've played around with the draft control levers a little, but I don't have a Ford guy around to learn from. What specifically should I try with the draft control levers?
Is trying to use that plow on a 5000 a waste of time? I am only using it for a small vegetable garden operation, so I'm not planning on purchasing a more suitable plow unless I happen to stumble across a real bargain.
By the way, I've only owned this tractor for less than a year, but have really enjoyed using it so far!
 
Does this plow have more of a long sided share or a triangular cast iron point? The old 2x10 F-S we have has that style point, but I have seen some with a longer type of share that travels along th eleading edge of the board. Regardless both would need a fairly long point. If the point is rounded off to any degree it probably needs to be replaced... That was the most common reason why that plow wouldn't go in the ground. Keep in mind that most of them were only narrow bottoms to begin with so 5-6" is their working depth.
Also keep in mind that if you hit something hard in the ground with that tractor in front of it, you will be searching for another plow. It will twist the beams for fun, or break the frogs in half. BT/DT. Parts are not easily obtainable for those plows, if they ARE obtaibable. I do have a fair selection of points for the 2x10 though...

Rod
 
The only advice I’d add is to try to find an area larger than a Garden to get it setup in.

Hopefully you know or could find a Farmer to let you do this in a near by field. Just ask around, I know Dad and I’d get a kick out of help someone setup a Plow.

Just make good notes of all the setting once it's setup right. Like top link position and measure the length of the top link and the adjustable parts of the lift arms.

My first plowing was on a "69 5000 row crop with a 5-14" mounted plow. I was 8 or 9.
 
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