Plunger Knives

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hi guys,
I read a post about baler plunger knives and it got me to thinking. Who do you recommend I talk to in order to get my plunger knives sharpened correctly? I do a lot of things myself, but when it was mentioned not to use a grinder I figure I better find someone that knows what they are doing. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
If you still have a reasonably good bevel on the knives that you can use for a pattern... just put a sanding/flap disc on a grinder. I wouldn't use an abrasive wheel... but a sanding wheel is fine. Polish it up and it should be good enough. Otherwise you can file them or use a whet stone, neither of which are terribly appealing to me...
Checking the clearance between the stationary knife and the plunger knife is equally, if not more important. You should check the operators manual for your baler to BE SURE but the spec is probably about 1/16-1/8" clearance...

Rod
 
to sharpen knives on wood chippers, they use surface grinder with coolant to keep edge from getting overheated

using flap grinder with real light touch should work, just don't get in a hurry, feel the metal and if its getting warm, stop for a smoke
 
Do you live in an area where there are Amish. Most amish have a shop where they get silo filler knives sharpened. These shops can also sharpen baler knives.
 
As mentioned, clearence is most important. You will need to grind the nicks out of them before you sharpen. You can use a grinder on them, that is rediculous getty too picky about such a low grade steel. They are not made out of high quality knife steel, takes alot more to take the temper out then getting the very edge a little warm. Lawn mowing companies use grinders on their mower blades all the time. Then should use like a flap wheel or belt sander to smooth the edge. You make them too sharp they will dull right away.
 
I'd always done my own baler knives but last year I got talked into replacing them. What a difference it made. No matter how hard I tried I hadnt gotten the bevel right, especially after 35 years of almost right. Right around 200 bucks from mother deere. Made a huge difference.
 
I more often then sharpen just buy new knives because I end up with some nicks in mine. I figure after grinding out the relief in the edge to get the nicks out you are compromised on clearence and adjustment. I sure have never had to pay $200, seems Deere is about twice as expensive as Hesston.
 
Never found the exact bevel to be that important. Sharpen them from the bevel side only, set the clearance right and they'll work just fine...

NH knives were about $80 last time I checked...
 
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